DIY Nissan Maxima Tow Hitch Install

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ImStricken06
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Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:45 am
Car: 2008 Rogue(sold)
2013 Santa Fe
2016 Sorento
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LETS JUST SAY IT WAS A PAIN IN THE @ss (because it was my first time doing the fishing of the bolts through the frame rail.) Now that i know the simple tips to make it easy, it will be a 30mins install for sure. I wanted to pass along the small tips & tricks, and info so when you guys get the install directions- you wont get lost.(the directions give you options- its up to you to figure it out, so i figured id take the guess work out of it). And to make things worse: i got an offer on the car about a month after i installed this hitch and ended up selling the car before ever even using the hitch LOL

I was planing on towing a small open trailer(350lb) and my track-bike(400lbs-but lost some weight due to removing all street parts) - and sometimes wifey's track-bike in addition to mine(also a 400lb bike).
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Driver side was simple. you remove the tow hook thats there, and simply bolt in the hitch with 4 bolts. USE LOCTITE!
Passenger side you will need to fish in 3 bolts(with square mounting plates) into existing holes in the frame rail.

this is the wiring harness i installed.
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehi ... d=20023895
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the kit comes with everything pictured.

i just piggy backed it to the left tail light, using the supplied wire crimps and tucked all the mess behind the trunk carpet backing, and zip tied it to the carpet backing.
now i have my wiring ready when needed & and neatly tucked away when i dont.
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COST OF TOW HITCH:
I bought it for $158(shipped) from a great ebay seller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/I30-I35- ... 19c1a7f381
IF YOU CALL/EMAIL HIM- HE WILL DO 158 SHIPPED(at least he did for me).
It arrived quickly & well packaged, and with instructions and all bolts needed.


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THIS IS THE DRIVER SIDE: 4 BOLTS (very simple) THIS SIDE HAS NUTS WELDED INTO PLACE FROM THE FACTORY
(you will remove the stock oem tow hook thats bolted there now, and replace it with this side of the hitch by 4 new bolts. Dont tighten to much for now- you will need to move the hitch around a fraction of an inch to help the passenger side bolts ease in.
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i reused 1 bolt there because the hole was slightly stripped from the old bolt coming out. i tried to place in a new bolt, and it wouldnt go in, so i replaced the old bolt and it went in easy, and was torqued in place. the old tow hook & bolts were made to support the full weight of the car incase of break down or accident by a tow truck, so im not even worried. i wont tow anywhere near the weight of the car.
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This is the cleaned up installation instructions that i color coded for you guys:
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NOW ONTO THE PASSENGER SIDE: THIS IS A DIFFERENT BEAST. THE INSTRUCTIONS SUGGEST THAT OUR CARS HAVE WELDED NUTS IN THE FRAME RAIL JUST LIKE THE DRIVER SIDE DOES- MY CAR DID NOT HAVE WELDED NUTS. SO THE 2ND OPTION IS FISHING BOLT & SQUARE PLATE TO BE FISHED THROUGH THE FRAME RAIL INTO THE APPROPRIATE HOLE.

(this is the view of the passenger side of the vehicle)
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ok the instructions can be tricky to read. i spent some time in photo shop breaking it down a lot easier
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the "ACCESS HOLE" is a wide hole used to fish the bolts into the frame rail. you keep pushing and prodding until you see the wire out of the hole you want the bolt through. catch the wire, and pull the bolt through. this will require some love, and time. it can be a pain in the as5
FISHING PROCESS:
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and the 3rd bolt - will require you to drill a hole in the frame rail. simple not hard. dont get scared by it, and repeat the fishing process.
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There isnt a lot of room for those of us who dont want to drop the exhaust so use a drill-bit like this and just enlarge the hole as you need it
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MAKE SURE THE FISHING WIRE IS RIGHT AGAINST THE BOLT SO YOU DONT LOOSE IT IN THE FRAME RAIL.
IF YOU DO LOOSE SOMETHING IN THE FRAME RAIL- YOU WILL NEED A TELESCOPIC MAGNET


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i love how it doesnt stick out at all.

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