Holy Smoke my post was messed up, somewhat better now, thanks for pointing out that ac bit; I would've hated to waste somebody's time.You asked about the brand and part number: I don't know.I thought I snapped some pictures, but I just checked my phone and I don't see any.[IMG][/IMG] I went down to economy auto salvage or something like that in Grand Prairie, TX (about 15 min. drive) after my alternator belt broke. They have alternators and hundreds of other parts hanging on hooks in sections by car manufacturers. They go for $20 bucks or so there, but they didn't have any alternators with the same connection and with a rating of 110/125 so I ended up next door at all discount auto salvage: 3965 East Main Grand Prairie, TX 75050. (972) 641-6595. I paid $70 bucks for a alternator marked 98' Mercury Villager (should have been $60 IMO). Anyway my stock works, so craigslist time.

Upinsmoke wrote:the ac brackets on the other side of the car, are you talking about the alt adj bracket and what brand alt is it and what is the part number i did this swap on an s13 and there was three drifferent alt u can get thank.

does anyone have pics of the alt bracket that and how it needs to be modified and part numbers of the belt i need for the 125 amp alternator?

waldo916 wrote:does anyone have pics of the alt bracket that and how it needs to be modified and part numbers of the belt I need for the 125 amp alternator?

As far as part numbers go? Take the original belt in and ask for two sizes up if possible (or ask for two sizes up from the original; it should be in their computer). I have a Zenki I used the original alt. bracket. I didn't need to modify it, but I did file around the inside a little just to make it easier. Loosen ALL three bolts on the alt. bracket because the alt. wont swivel back in place behind the bracket to tighten it down from the front. Loosen the bolts on the alt bracket and slide the alt bracket a little forward toward the front of the car just enough to crepe the alt behind the bracket so you can tighten it. I couldn't place the alt behind the bracket and tighten everything down. I had to place the alt bracket like normal without the alt behind the alt bracket and backout/unthread the alt bracket bolts that attach to the block, pull forward on the bracket toward the front of the car and slide the alternator in place. The other option inludes grinding various points on the alt and alt bracket. The most obvious one is the lip on the alt bracket because you immediately notice it hitting the alt when you try to swivel it in place. I think people are also using the s14 alt tensioner bolt because it's longer. I'm using one off a ford motor just because it's what was around and worked (I have an s14 but lost the bolt). Note I did this upgrade from the top because I was also replacing some other things or else I would recommend accessing your alt from the bottom.
Modified by reezn at 8:30 PM 10/29/2008

Yo can we get these pictures fixed? If you no longer have pics, I'm doing this swap this weekend and I can send you mine.

zachattack_5491 wrote:Yo can we get these pictures fixed? If you no longer have pics, I'm doing this swap this weekend and I can send you mine.

Pictures are hosted on nicoclub's old photogallery, so I don't have control over that. In any case, it should be fairly straightforward - you don't really "need" pictures.

Indeed. Oh well, just wondering if it would be an easy fix. Thanks for the writeup. I read it just in time to buy a new quest alternator. Too bad it cost me $260

Edit... P.S. Do any of you think this would somehow possibly fix my hesitation problem? I have seriously done EVERYTHING except get a new fuel pump. I must have spent 300 bucks on my hesitation.

i have to say this is asome bc it also allows u to run more power to a audio system w/o a exta battery

So there are two ways of doing this:

1) Cut/Grind to make it fit like stock.

2) Reezn's way of loosening the bracket to slip the alternator in.

Do both methods require drilling out to 13/32?

BTW I picked up a 110AMP Villager alternator from the junkyard for $45.

Took it to local Alternator/Starter specialist and had it tested on a heavy duty alternator tester. None of this Pep Boys/Advanced Auto tester crap.

The used alternator, all crudded up and junk tested 130amps at 14.2 volts.

Kickin!

My suggestion is this...if you don't have a table vice, good grinder, good drill, and and someone to help you (or another car), I wouldn't attempted this.

Did this swap on my 97 today, had to drill and enlarge the mount holes on the alternator, and machine off about a 1/4 inch off the top mount because it hits the bracket. The original 305 size belt was too short and after some trial and error we found that the 320 size belt fits perfect. Car runs great so far, didnt have a volt meter to test the voltage, but i will tomorrow.

op: i would love to see your voltages after doing the Big 3. any chance we can get that to happen. i'll donate some wire. i have a massive spool of 0 sitting in my room...

Just a quick update for those who don't know. You can use the 1999 nissan quest alt.. I don't remember which other years use that model but its rated at 125 amps. Its physically the same as the 110. All you have to do to mount is drill bottom mount and loosen top bracket. then install.

when doing this swap do u need to buy another belt longer belt or can u reuse the same one?

240sx_in_209 wrote:when doing this swap do u need to buy another belt longer belt or can u reuse the same one?

It will probably depend on the actual alternator you buy, but here's one answer that was on the first page:

onosqv wrote:Quest pulley is same diameter. I was able to use the same belt in basically the same position - I am underdrive pulley too, don't know if that makes much of a difference. Anyway, there is plenty of slack/adjustment space to make up for a larger or smaller pulley.

I believe the E & DE are interchangeable, they are so damn similar, haha. Don't take my word for it though.

And just for reference about part #'s, autozone has 2 part #'s for the same (basically) alternator for the 97 quest. All s13's are 80amp, so I don't see why they would change anything (doesn't make sense from a manufacturing point of view).

Glad it's helping some ppl

And as an added note, I did this on my ka24de & needed to buy a shorter belt using it w/ the stock pulley. Just fyi.

scruffy63 wrote:Just a quick update for those who don't know. You can use the 1999 nissan quest alt.. I don't remember which other years use that model but its rated at 125 amps. Its physically the same as the 110.

This information is not correct.

The 94-03 alternators for a Quest are all rated at 110. There are a few differences however. V40 covers 92-98. This alternator is significantly cheaper(~$120) than the V41 model, which was made between 98-03. As far as any other differences, and why the price is increased by so much, i have no idea.

There is also the V42 model, which is rated at 130 amps. They are from 03 Quests and up. Im going to do some research and check the JY's for this alternator and see if its a feasible swap.

All this information comes directly from Nissan's data bank accessible from any Nissan dealer.

Did the 110amp install (on my 95) last weekend got everything back together and the bottom mountin bolt is hitting my belt............any ideas (tried running the belt out a groove but it skipped back in)?

ight guys, just bought a 95 240sx SE and need to change the altenator asap. Im planing on putting all my music system back into this car, and buying HID lights. Please, let me know which alternator I need to get without making crazy modifications;trying to advoid porblems later on. I was thinking about installing a 110 amps or so. Im new on this forum, but please contact me trough here and I'll try to find it, or my e-mail at [email protected]

I need to replace the alternator ASAP since my car keeps turning off while driving. I have 2 jobs and don't want to get anymore write ups cuz of getting late. I'll REALLY appreciae your coments. Thanks again.

I have a 96 kade in my 92 s13..My question is what do u mean by prep the electrical connector with a 3/8 or larger drill?Do I have to use a diff alternator plug? Or is the s13 plug ok?

199240sxCoupe wrote:I have a 96 kade in my 92 s13..My question is what do u mean by prep the electrical connector with a 3/8 or larger drill?Do I have to use a diff alternator plug? Or is the s13 plug ok?

looks like the images aren't there anymore - it was uploaded on the old nico photo hosting stuff.

anyway, there is one ring connector that goes to the alternator that may be too small, so you have to enlarge the hole. Everything else plugs in.

you'll see it when you do it.

Sorry to bump this but I just got finished installing this and have a few issues:1)At idle my voltage is like 15.3-15.4 V which i think is pretty damn high.. It stays above 15V with everything on, HIDs, music, heater fans, electric fan, etc.. 2)My battery light is constantly on3)The belt on the alternator looks like its about to jump off.. It's sitting on the edge of the pulley close to the alternator housing with 2 ribs on the main pully part. I'm still using the 5-rib pulley it came with. Is this bad?

I also replaced the 2 prong plug on the alternator with a new one from a Nissan Sentra.. Is it possible that I wired it backwards?

Edit: I swapped the wires that I somehow reversed and now it doesn't charge the car at all again.. wtf.. Same thing happened with my previous stock alternator except the wire for the plug was disconnected and the positive terminal melted/oxidized off..
Modified by Silent_NightR34 at 6:41 PM 4/9/2010

Silent_NightR34 wrote:Sorry to bump this but I just got finished installing this and have a few issues:1)At idle my voltage is like 15.3-15.4 V which i think is pretty damn high.. It stays above 15V with everything on, HIDs, music, heater fans, electric fan, etc.. 2)My battery light is constantly on3)The belt on the alternator looks like its about to jump off.. It's sitting on the edge of the pulley close to the alternator housing with 2 ribs on the main pully part. I'm still using the 5-rib pulley it came with. Is this bad?

I also replaced the 2 prong plug on the alternator with a new one from a Nissan Sentra.. Is it possible that I wired it backwards?

Edit: I swapped the wires that I somehow reversed and now it doesn't charge the car at all again.. wtf.. Same thing happened with my previous stock alternator except the wire for the plug was disconnected and the positive terminal melted/oxidized off..
Modified by Silent_NightR34 at 6:41 PM 4/9/2010

I just installed the my Alt in my car and have this issue. But, my valtage goes up to 18 volt.

Ok this may have been covered but I will ask anyway.... Ok when i drill out the bottom mount hole where does the long bolt and nut i need come from?? the old alternator or do i have to find one somewhere else...I just want to make sure I have everything i need before I attempt it. Can someone post a detailed parts and tool list for this Swap.... much appreciated.