NJGUY: Thanks for the tips.
The 14mm Magnetic socket works flawlessly! I highly recommend this socket. First, No dropping of spark plug. Second is you could feel the socket is in all the way to the spark plug when you hand torque them. (I torque the plug at 14 ft-ib) .
I find this procedure very easy to do if you have the right tool. The throttle cleaning is actually harder, since I only use a q-tips cleaning the gunk! This is my second time cleaning the throttle bodies. It is probably easier to clean it if you totally disconnect the tubing , and cleaning the throttle bodies on the floor, but this tubing are tight, so I went ahead and change my spark plug then at the same time spraying the throttle bodies with cleaner in between so it dissolve the junk. I did the throttle body cleaning one side at a time and also one spark plug at a time too. Over all my lower back hurts as I was leaning for a longer period of time cleaning the throttle bodies. (And boy! I really did take my time! )
Spark Plug change:
Remove Negative battery connection first...
1) Remove Engine cover ( 5x 10mm socket)
2) Remove intake tubing (after MAF sensor towards throttle body) Leave the airfilter box as is. You need to remove any small tubing connected to the main Air Intake tube.
3) Remove 4 allen type screw on the Throttle bodies
4) Remove one electric connector on the throttle body. (Option to remove the 2 rubber hose on the throttle body so you can clean them on the floor and save your back. (use q-tips to clean and do not open the throttle plates - search online for g35/37 forum, it is a big headache to do that)
5) After removing the throttle body on one side, you`ll have access to the spark plug connectors. Those connectors are held by 10mm bolts. So remove them and unplug the electrical harness too. You`lll have a access to the spark plug. it is deep and tight! (You need to have the type of setup that I use since the rear plugs are farther and deeper at the back and you need longer extension.
6) I did put anti seized lube to the sparkplug tread and hand torque them then used torque wrench at 14 ft-ib. Be careful of the 10mm connector bolts, the manual says 76 or something ft-ib of torque for a 10mm
These 10mm bolts do not need that much. I would say less than 10 ft-ib.
7) Do the procedure in reverse.
Tool setup : Removing the plug I use a regular wrench and installing it, I used a torque wrench from Harbor Freight.
Throttle body is out! Now you have better access to the 3 spark plugs... Sorry for the dirty engine bay... YUCK!
That will be my next project
You need that 3/8 swiveling adapter . Without it, this is how it looks like at the rear spark plug. You can remove the Plastic covering wall for the brake master cylinder , but I was lazy and the 3/8 adapter is easier.
Again, this SHI.! really WORKS!
http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_N54_T ... ES2561145/
BTW, No engine codes or problem. I did a quick Idle Relearn -- (Turn on KEY ignition 2 secs and Off 10 secs. something like that) The idle RPM will be high at first (2K) on start up and will settle down to normal. DANG! cars run smoothly!