ok i have been getting clips and doing swaps for people for a while now, needless to say i have had plenty of spare GayDM parts laying around. i have always liked the clean look of the DCC. Ok so i read the write up on here, and ziptied, and a few other places. they all made it seem WAYYYY more complicated than it actually is. so here are some simple directions that will hopefully make it easier. i will take some pictures the next time i tear into my dash to tuck the engine bay harness.

Basically the parts you need are:DCC main unit with sub harness on the backAmbient Temp Sensor (the one that a tube can connect to)Outside Air temp sensor (also known as sunload sensor)Blend door acutatorBlower Motor Speed Sensor (directly behind glove box)Metal Coat HangerFender Washer for m6 boltShort Nut and Bolt m6thats about it from what i can remember.

Now For wiring:Remove your factory unitRemove shifter bezelThen take out the 4 screwsPush it in and pull it out the shifter hold. cut that damn clear blend door cable and throw it away.

Now For wiringThere is a small 6 wire plug on the DCC sub harness that does not match up with any of the plugs under your dash.Remove the green with white wire with pin from the plug by prying up the white plastic piece on the top and pulling the wire out with pliers.Now take a gander at the large 16 pin connector that does plug into one of your underdash plugs. you will notice that there is a blank pin above the light green with black wire. slide your pin and and the hardest part of the wiring is DONE!Also on the plug where you removed the green with white wire is a blue with red wire. cut it and connect it to the wire on your ACC + wire on your stereo. usually your red wire on aftermarket stereos.Now take the red wire that has its own plug and connect it to your constant 12v source for your stereo, usually the yellow wire on your aftermarket stereo. this is the memory for the unit.Thats it for wiring modifications!Now look at where the white cable came from, this is where the coat hanger pictured above will connect to. there is a black relay right by where it goes, take that off of its bracket and secure it to the side, remove the screw that holds on the bracket and the random screw about 2 inches to the left of that one. Now line up the blend door actuator with the bolt for the relay. Now take your large fender washer and old bolt to the left and use it to secure the other side of the acutator. Now take your coat hanger and make it look like this:Now one ends bolt to actuator and the other end goes around the actually piece that moves the blend door that you can see from the right side foot well looking up into the middle.Now the HARDEST part of the ENTIRE install is DONE! WOOT!Now rip your glove box off by removing the two screws that hold it on the bottom.What is staring you in the face is the Motor Speed sensor. Remove it and replace it with the JDM one. Yes the JDM one has 3 prongs and the USDM one has 4 everything is fine. when you put this in. make absolutely sure that the sensor is not making contact with the AC line in that cavity because it will ground and screw up the blower speed.Last step is to install your Sun Load/Outside Temp sensor, remove the defrost vent on the right side of the car by CAREFULLY prying up on the far edge and sliding the screwdriver towards the middle. Now dremel a hole so the sensor will slide into the far side of it. now just run the wire from the unit to the sensor and your all done with that.As for the ambient air temp sensor (remember the one with the tube) i just let mine hang out under the center console.

I just did it this exact way a few hours ago and everything works perfect. it probably took me 2 hours from start to finish. the best thing i ever did was ignore all the stuff thats going around on the internet about this swap. hardest part is getting the blend door linkage the correct length.

Is there a way to purchase the blend door linkage? Or is that completely unheard of?

i just whipped mine up in like 5 min. paypal me a couple bucks and i will throw one in an envelope for you. i was thinking about making a plug and play patch kit, linkage and a custom bracket for a bolt in swap...

does this help anyone? TTT

honestly if you did that, a lot of people would buy it.

Helped me with the door linkage problem I was having!

i need a patch kit and maybe the ac line is touching the speed sensor in mine so i didnt have fan speed adjustment thanks fr your help. i asked a couple times befor but no one seems to know what the hell i was saying and couldnt help at all

sorry for double post but i have to say this

THIS SHOULD BE IN THE TECH PAGE TO REPLACE THE ONES THATS IN THERE

how much would you charge for a plug and play kit also do you have extra s13 dcc units sitting around if so how much would you like for them non plug and play?

DMan II-40 wrote:honestly if you did that, a lot of people would buy it.

i'd be all over that

Great job!!! Yeah, this is definitely one of the best DCC write ups out there. DCC is next mod for my car too, but I've been putting it off because it looks like there's no way I can install the air mix motor without pulling out the dash. Is there enough space through radio hole? When I saw it, I was like 'NO WAY!!!'

I had a chance to get ahold of USDM air box, so I played with it a little to figure out exact length for the linkage. I should have posted this already, so you can get a perfect length. I'll do the write up with a lot of pics for sure when I do mine. Anyway, here we go.

This is s13 air box on the car.

It's out.

Manual climate control closes and opens the air mix door with a cable like this. Some people who don't have OEM linkage keep this wire and connect it to the motor. You can take it out by removing a couple of screws, so don't cut it just in case you want to go back to manual CC when you can't make the DCC work at all.

OP didn't mention about the air mix motor mounting process. I think you have to fabricate a bracket to mount air mix motor to the air box. These are the mounting points, but it's not a direct bolt on matter.

There are two ways you can mount the air mix motor. This is on the left side of the air box.

This is on the right side of the air box. I don't know which side it shoud go. I need to figure it out.

Now, length of linkage rod is adjustable, so I played with it a little.

This is perfect length. If your DCC set came with the OEM linkage, count the thread and set the rod this way. If you are several teeth off, air mix door won't open and close perfectly and it's possible you will overload the motor.

OP fabriacted this part with a metal coat hanger. I can give you guys exact length, so you can make one for yourself. I'll try to post it tonight. OP, why did you have to fabricate it? Was it simply missing or OEM linkage didn't work well?

One more thing, there's another sensor that goes to near front bumper. It's an outside ambient temp sensor which is different from sun load sensor. OP didn't mention about it either. Anyone knows about it? I think DCC still works without it.
Modified by 94_240sx at 10:14 AM 11/29/2008

SeanC wrote:i just whipped mine up in like 5 min. paypal me a couple bucks and i will throw one in an envelope for you. i was thinking about making a plug and play patch kit, linkage and a custom bracket for a bolt in swap...

That's something I'd definitely put on the top of my 'to get' list.

this is all great info.

I measured it and it's exactly 5 inches.

Mine came with this piece at the end, but if you use metal coat hanger to fabricate the rod, you don't need it.

You are going to attach end of metal hanger to this part which is already on your air box.

Back of air mix motor.

Motor side close up. You will use a bolt to secure metal hanger rod here.

Air mix door side.

If you care about the location of sunload sensor, this is OEM sunload sensor location.

It's exactly 1 1/4inch away from the edge.

This is outside temp sensor I was talking about. It's a small black box.

Two black wires go to this plug and you have to run wire to cabin and connect to DCC, but I don't know where they go.

i have a extra dcc unit with the sub harness anyone need? oh and some sensors

how much? email at [email protected] so we dont clutter the thread

if you use the jdm linkage assembly not enough threads will contact the white plastic piece on the blend door motor and if the actually door offers any resistance for some reason the threads will strip out. the coat hanger works perfect. and no you dont need to make a bracket one of the holes lines up the other you just have to use a fender washer to hold the other side on.