crank sensor

[lowblocks]

on the 4th gen max the crank sensor by the pulley do you have to take off the pulley to get to the sensor and if so about how much should i pay to put 1 on my car please help

[maxhopper]

Negative. Just unplug the electrical connection and remove two 10mm bolts.

[lowblocks]

this is some bs just when im just about to change my crank sensor the car stop starting all together the car used to start but it always had problems starting so i pulled the code a while ago and it was the crank sensor so i changed the starter and was planing to change the sensor and now the car wont turn over at all i wonder can i push start the car just to get it to the shop i would do it my self but its to cold now

[NutriaforBreakfast]

You will mess up the CV joints and/or transmission is youpush you car too much/far

[lowblocks]

so dont try to push start it just pay to get it towed

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Owners manual will cover that

[NutriaforBreakfast]

What yr is your maxima?( I heard 4th gen but I know the95 and 98 are a little different)

[NutriaforBreakfast]

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the oil pan facingthe gear teeth (cogs) of the signal plate (flywheel)

Might throw a P0335 diagnostic code

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maximago to ec.pdfpage 197-201

[lowblocks]

this car is a pain in the a$$ i did the sensor the starter and the plugs and maf and the car is still giving me a hard start wtf and i tried doing the fuel filter but i could not get the hose off i tried pulling the fuse out and cranking the car but is wont start at all with the fuse out and the hose is soft but it wont come off so what i was thinking about doing is starting the car then pull the fuse out and let the car run until it dies oh and the only way i can get the car started is if i have my foot on the gas a little please help i don't want to sell the car for a little bs problem like this i love the car but i cant trust it in the condition that its in

[Q45tech]

The usual proceedure is to PAY a dealer for expert diagnosis then decide if you want to pay them or pay another outside expert to repair................rather than just swapping parts until you luck up on the correct one.

[tomgc]

Did you ever get your car fixed? what fixed it?

Tom

[johnsogl]

I have a '97 with the same intermittent hard starting problem apparently many people are having. So far I've checked fuel, coils, crank sensors, (no codes), battery connections and the only consistent thing happening is a lack of spark. Car won't start without it obviously. Pull start it and it runs like a champ. First I thought it might be a leaky injector, but fuel tests didn't show that. Anyhow I pulled the plugs when it wouldn't start and they were all coated with fuel; but no spark. I checked the three wires going to each coil and all had 12volts (red), continuity to ground (black), and about 100 mV (blue). The blue wire is the signal wire from the ECM to the coils and needs to be about 200 mV for the coils to spark. I also put 12 ga jumper wire directly from the positive battery post to the (red) wire thinking maybe I was lacking amps during cranking; but still no spark. The problem is a poor signal (100-120 mV) intead of 200mV. Unfortunately I don't have a oscilloscope (I know I spelled that wrong) to correctly check the signal. Either way the question is why is the signal sometimes half the voltage it should be? Also I tested the 3-wire crank sensor at the flywheel and it tests opposite of what the Hayes and Chilton books say. The books say the sensor should read 5 volts when touching steel on the end while back probing the white wire and zero when not toughing steel. Mine does just the opposite and is inconsistent but runs fine once it starts and no codes. I'm suprised with as many people having this common problem I havn't found where someone has written the solution. Any thoughts?