Okay 320 fans let's resolve this (-) or (+) coil pole to the distributor or at least try to shed some light on this confusing topic.
But first, regardless of what is mention here,
1- If you system works like it is, I'd recommend just leaving it alone for now.
2- If you decide to delve into this yourself, do not forget to disconnect the battery first
3- Find a local shop/mechanic that knows the charging/ignition system for a POSITIVE ground / Generator auto/truck/tractor that can help you out along the way.
Okay, per the wiring diagrams and manual the 320 is a POSITIVE ground system with a generator to produce the electric current.
What we are most concerned with is the ignition system is specifically the Coil (
1), the Distributor
(2), the Fuse Box
(3) and the page 2/not pictured ignition switch.
Let's follow the electrical current and start at the battery. The POSITIVE terminal is grounded and the NEGATIVE terminal connects to the starter solenoid. From the solenoid the current goes to two locations - the starter and over to the Voltage Regulator
(8). From the Voltage Regulator
(8) the current goes to three locations - the ignition light on the dash, Generator
(7) and the Fuse Box
(3).
Okay, let's focus on the fuse box
(3) for a second. Note that the current from the Voltage Regulator
(8) only goes to the two positions number
(4) across the two fuses and onto the headlights, brake switch and brake lights. This is why these accessories come on with no key - there is a constant/continuous current.
Note the one BLACK wire coming from "power in" side of the fuse box by the two fuse position
(4) - this is the power/current to the ignition switch and it does not have an interrupt/fuse. This black wire goes to the ignition switch and when the key is turned power/current returns to the fuse box to the other two fuse positions number
(5).
You will notice that this power/current meets at the bottom of the fuse box, again with no interrupt/fuse, and is joined by the BLACK-WHITE wire going to the coil
(1). Therefore the wire from the fuse box position number
(5) is a NEGATIVE current taking power to the coil. This leads to only one conclusion - the wire from the coil
(1) down to the distributor
(2) is POSITIVE.
My one '64 was incorrectly wired - It had the NEGATIVE power/current wire from fuse box position
(5) to the POSITIVE terminal on the coil
(1). As a result I had no power going across the fuse to the other accessories, namely Turn Indicators, Temp and Fuel Gauge, and Wiper motor. None of these worked. But after changing over as previously explained the '64's turn indicators work, fuel gauge jumps around, and the temp gauge now reads overheating (hey, can't win them all).
I know what your thinking - But, but, the wire from the distributor to the coil on my 320 attaches to the POSTIVE terminal and everything still works, still runs and runs smoothly, and I have indicators. Congrats! You are not alone. After burning up the internet, email, and making a couple of phone calls, I can assure you that you are not alone. My one '65 is wired exactly like this, works fine and starts up quicker than an $85K Nissan
So the question is why does my 320 work if this is the wrong. Well at this time I can't say and don't know. I would suspect that there might be some additional wiring at the fuse box. So I will look at my one '65, take a few pics and post them tomorrow night and let you know what I find out.
So till then, go luck with your 320 wiring and let me know if you have any questions or need anything.
Wiring harnesses are here -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 591544806/