Code P1145 x 2= headache

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
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1qckser
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My 01 Pathfinder is throwing a P1145 code twice , I replaced the VTC sensor on the passenger side head, for the life of me I dont know what else could be causing the light to come back on, any help would be appreciated, Thanks


NISTECH
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zerothread?id=73212

Read through this thread, at about the 19th post I explained why this happens.

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1qckser
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Thanks Nistech, so it looks like I will be replacing the solenoid on the passenger side also, If I go and get it scanned again today I should only see the code come up as just a single one instead of 2 because AI just replaced the sensor? I think im on the right track, this isnt my Q so its a lil learning curve, Thanks again

NISTECH
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well if you didnt clear the code after you replaced the sensor , it is likely it hasent cleared yet. It takes a few drive cycles to clear any obdII codes. but if you did erase it and it came back on then yes you probably got a solonoid problem.

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1qckser
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Yuup thats what happend, cleared it, drove to Dunkin Donuts, shut it off, came back and whalla the light was on again, thanks for your help.

sturge84
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NISTECH, I'm hoping you can help me here.

I bought an 01 QX4 from a dealership just before Christmas. When I took it for a test drive, the check engine light came on. I told them to fix the problem and I would buy it. Back in February, the light came back on. I had the codes pulled (P1135) and checked with the dealer. It was the same code/same parts they replaced and they stated they couldn't fix it indefinitely. They thought maybe the previous owner didn't change the oil regularly and that even if they replace the parts again, the light will probably come back on.

Does this make sense to you? You seem to have been working on this solonoid problem for some time now and I'm wondering if it was the wrong side they replaced initially.

I've asked them to find another QX4, but they seem to be dragging their feet and I'm not so sure they'll do the right thing even though they say they will make it right. Right for whom is what I've been asking myself.

Any insight you can provide would be much appreciated.

NISTECH
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first welcome to NICO Robert.

Heres what you need to do. You need to find out exactly what they replaced the last time and what the code was. They are full of it telling you that this problem will return. yes it happens on occasion but not frequently enough to say its likely. I have a feeling they went after the sensor and only the sensor. how long has it been since the repair was intitially done? Having this information will grealty help me give you a better insight on your situation. When we started doin the repairs we always came to the same conclusion untill an advisor had told us on one of them that we had it twice before for the same problem and code. We dont remember every car we work on due to the fact we do line work and can see 3 of the same model and color vehicle in one day. We did a little research on this first one and some R&D to figure out why this problem kept happening, We had the car a total of three days testing it periodically through out the day during different ambient temps and different driving habits. On the third day we discovered the time and point the problem would occur. after that we could duplicate it at will and could do so on every future vehicle to verify exactly which part was failing. We had to do this since the service manual does not specify that one of the 2 components could cause the code. So you can see why this dealer might be having a rough go at it. Knowing exactly what they replaced is important.

sturge84
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Thanks for the quick response.

The repair was initially done on/around 12/15/04. Around 2/21/05 the light came back on. I just had the dealership fax over the work order. There are no part numbers listed nor an error code. It only says "rpl intake sensors". They obviously didn't try very hard to diagnose the problem.

From this, I'm guessing your response will be to replace the solenoid? According to the ECU codes posted on this site, that's LH Bank 2, or driver's side - correct?

Edit: Does anyone have the part number? The local Infinity dealership cannot cross reference "VTC Solenoid" and needs the 12-15 digit number on the part itself.
Modified by sturge84 at 9:15 AM 4/12/2005

NISTECH
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you atre correct it is likely the solonoid. Did you read my thread on the proper way to diagnose the problem? It would help you understand what is going on with it and why it should be diagnosed that way by the dealer. I posted a link in this thread to the one that covers it. Its about the 19th post in that thread. I will see if I can locate the solonoid at a nissan dealer its the same part.

sturge84
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Yes, I've read the thread.

I'm currently in the garage trying to move the bracket, which is a huge pain in the..., to get to the part number, but I don't believe it's stamped on the solenoid.

Just so I know I'm looking at the correct part, it's back from the bracket, underneath the multitude of connections, with a cast iron body, and the electrical connector is attached to a brass colored valve at the end. Is it the full assembly (cast body & valve)?

NISTECH
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yep your on it, but there is no part number stamped on it. The parts fishe and the service manual dont reffer to parts the same. We get to go through this daily with our parts dept. Nissan really needs to get their litature in line for all areas of its operation. The warranty manual is totally different then both the others to so trust me I know your frustration right about now.

sturge84
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Finally got the part number from a Nissan dealership for those that may need it later: 23796-4W005

Same for the RH or LH. I ordered mine today and should be in by Friday. The Nissan rep told me she doubted this would fix the problem, as others have tried but ended up returning the part. But my bet is on NISTECH.

Btw, should I reset the light or let the computer do it?

NISTECH
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i would let the computer do it. that way you know its fixed.

Well I hope I am right to, but the only way to be 100% is to do the test I mentioned in the other thread. My guess is though its your solonoid. when your done call her up and tell her to not be so negitive and nanie nanie boo boo

Scott

sturge84
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After 6 weeks of calling the dealership about the "defective" QX4 they sold me, they finally agreed to negotiate a swap. They called on Thursday to say they had found another comparable truck, so I went over on Friday to work out the details.

All in all, it worked out pretty good for me. I ended up with a newer vehicle, a few less miles, and more options. I did end up spending a bit more, but it's worth it knowing, or rather not knowing, what else might be wrong with it or even if it could be fixed reliably.

Thanks for the help Scott, I appreciate it.

angieva1971
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HI is that code for bank 1 of bank 2, there are two solenoids isn't there? I've been having codes come up for months, replaced the intake timing sensor then the light was still there, read the forum here and it said to switch them, the light is still on...now it's a P1140 solenoid bank 1, which is that?

Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!

NISTECH
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Passenger side[right side]

mexterra
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NISTECH, I hate to dig up old post, and yes, I did read all of your threads about how to diagnose the sensor issue but I am a little confused. I am in the process of buying a used 2003 pathfinder from a local dealer. They agreed to replace the necessary parts for the SES issue before I purchase. The other day they replaced part number 23796-4w004 (Valve solenoid) Unfortunately, I don't know the original code or which side they replaced. My guess is the drivers side since it looks cleaner and the housing is silver and not brass like the passengers side. The car drove fine for about a mile then went into safe mode and triggered the SES light. I do work with both sensors and solenoids at work and know the difference. Here are the current codes:P0011 Camshaft Position Sensor/Act A/Bank 1P0021 Camshaft Position Sensor/Act A/Bank 2Both state that timing was advanced. My guess is this was due to the error.I found both sensors, removed them, and cleaned them. This helped for a short period and kept if out of safe mode, however, it is doing it again. I have to take the vehicle in today and just want to make sure I can advise them on which direction to go. One more note, the SES light, after being reset, will not come on until driving and not immediately after ignition. That is why I am confused. The OBD says sensors, but the way it is acting seems like a solenoid. What to do?
Modified by mexterra at 9:58 AM 3/12/2008

NISTECH
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You need to bring up the sensors and solenoids on a scan tool and moniter then under light acceleration. make sure the % of duty cycle on the solenoids is not high while the degrees of advance are low. The advance under light load should be able to easily reach mid to high teens while % of duty cycle are in the ~30 to 40 range. if the duty cycle is high and the degrees of advance are in the 7* range you prolly have restricted ports to or from/through the solenoid. This usually occurs due to poor maint/upkeep [oil changes] sometimes a lighter weight oil will help flush the system i.e. 0w-30,0w-40. after running it with that oil in it for say 500 miles switch back to normal wieght oil. If this doesnt help then back to solenoids.

My guess is its the other solenoid thats your problem. But the ultimate cause of both was prolly lack of proper oil change intervals.

kirch05
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p1145 means that you need to replace your cam position sensor/ intake valve timing control position sensor. the causes are : 1. open or short circuit condition 2. poor electrical condition 3. failed intake valve timing control position sensor. you have to replace both of them (left and right). they cost around $70 each and you need to have your engine light reset after. i hope it helps. goodluck.

mjrjweb
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I was throwing both codes, P1145 and P1140. I replaced both sensors on a Saturday and the SES went off by itself on Tuesday. I found complete instructions here:

http://www.jensbits.com/2008/0...p1140/

et751
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THANKS TO ALL THE INFO HERE WAS ABLE TO REPLACE BOTH SENSORS MYSELF. SAVED BIG BUCKS OVER DEALER WHO WANTED ALMOST $400 TO REPLACE THESE 2 SENSORS.GOT PARTS AT PINNACLE INFINITI IN ARIZONA.THEY HAVE CHEAPEST PRICES. ALSO BOUGHT CODE READER TO CLEAR CODES AND EVERYTHING IS GREAT ON MY 2001 QX4(64K). NEXT JOB IS PASSENGER WINDOW MOTOR, OH BOY!!!

Nate5452
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Can someone please list the part numbers for Both the Sensors (Driver-Side and Passenger-Side) and the solinoides. After digging I could fing the part number for one sensor and one solinoid (are their two solinoids?)

ThanksNate

longhornsqx4
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Ive also got the 1140 1145 codes being thrown, how do I know if its both snesors that need to be replaced, or could it be something else?

How would these sensors being screwed up affect your cars driving?

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Chuck Tribolet
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You want to read zerothread/116383

It will probably cost you some power because the camshafts won't beadvanced. And you won't pass smog inspection in California.

longhornsqx4
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This is the location of the 2 sensors right, just removed my engine cover to fix and repaint it anyways so I snapped a pic.




Nate5452
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Nate5452 wrote:Can someone please list the part numbers for Both the Sensors (Driver-Side and Passenger-Side) and the solinoides. After digging I could fing the part number for one sensor and one solinoid (are their two solinoids?)

ThanksNate
Is it true that this part number : 23731-2Y52A for the VTC sensor will be good for both sides (Driver and Passenger)? I thinking of just replacing both right now and get it over with. Currently only have P1145 Show up.

Nate

longhornsqx4
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Im also curious what part # to purchase for my 01 qx4, thats is throwing both 1140 and 1145 (both banks)

And if its even the sensors that have to be replaced or something else.....

Thanks alot

SuperTricolor
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Hi,I had the P1145 code and my mechanic told me to take to the dealer because it could be the sensor or not. He didn't want to spend the money on a new sensor without knowing for sure if the problem was more serious. I did take to the dealer but now I have the following problem. They diagnosed as the sensor being bad and ordered the part but they want to charge me 2-hour labor (~$200) to change this. I was told this was a 10 minute job and based on what I read here that I could even do this myself.

The dealer claims they need to "reprogram the computer". So does this sound right? If the problem isjust the sensor (it says in the order VTC sensor), should they take 2 hours to do it? I think my dealer is not being as honest as they should but I'd appreciate a reply.

Thanks

edm40
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I am having the same problem with my pathfinder NISTECH can you help me?

I have a 2001 pathfinder with 146,000 miles, from this forum I have read that my problem is quite common for this year model. My issue is error code P1145. When purchased 58,000 miles from a nissan dealer, light came on about 3 months after purchasing, I changed out two sensors P1145 at Nissan and light went away for only 3 months then came back on. I chose to not fix anything since the vehicle still got 19 mpg and runs perfect. 87,000 miles latter it is now required to get emissions testing where they have to plug into the OBD port. Now my pathy does not pass emissions. So with the help of a reputable shop (not the dealer) they researched, changed two more sensors and spent 1 week trying to get the light to go off. They have tried checking the solenoid as described in one thread, they pulled all sensors switched them back and forth and nothing still showing error. By law I have reached my limit on dollars spent, I have a waiver and I’m ok till next emission testing which is in 8 months. Grant it, it’s probably time to get a new car but this pathfinder is in perfect condition and hard to let go of something running so well except for this issue. Anyone have any ideas?

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vannaksao
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2003 Pathfinder SE (4x4 - 3.5)

Im getting codes:

P1491P0102P0113P0011P0021P0507

I know P1491 is the bypass valve. I can replaced that- it's going off because the exhaust from my broken muffler damaged it. Anyone know how much that cost?

The other codes came up and around the same time my car was loosing power. I would step on the gas, the rpm's would go up, but the car wouldnt move. Meanwhile, my oil change was wayy overdue. I did some research- took the throttle body off to clean it (lots of gunk), replaced the oil filter, air filter, and put in 10w-40.

The loss of power is gone. Drives normal, but RPM at start up and idle DO seem high. Also, those codes are coming up.

Help?

Thanks in advance!

Vannak


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