Alright. I just received my clutch slave and master cylinder in he mail. I go to put my slave cylinder in and what happens? The piston rod will not seat in the fork on the transmission.

What is happening? I am really worried about this now!

Can anyone please help me out?

Not sure...but we do have a few techs that may be able to help out.

Hang tight.

joe603 wrote:Not sure...but we do have a few techs that may be able to help out.

Hang tight.

Allow me to rephrase, the piston rod of the cylinder will not seat in the depression on the bottom of the release lever. There is not an excessive amount of play in the lever.

Is it a Nissan part or aftermarket? First step is to make sure it's the right part....

audtatious wrote:Is it a Nissan part or aftermarket? First step is to make sure it's the right part....

Yes. It is the right part. Even though I got it through Amazon (please don't think less of me!) It was a Centric Premium Clutch Slave Cylinder, part number 138.42017.

I made sure it was the proper part before I ordered it because I checked on Rockauto, Auto PArts Warehouse, as well as Everything G35.

I used Amazon because it was a little cheaper and I got a break on shipping.

Anyway I installed it the opposite way I removed it.

When I removed the slave, my lever was very tight. I moved it a bit and then I heard a small click and it moved more.

I more than likely screwed it up. However there is not excessive play in the lever.

What could be wrong? Here are some pix of how it is "seated".

You somehow managed to move your fork. Look at the wear marks along the side of it... that is where it used to be seated/rub up against the trans and boot. You'll have to stick it back in.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You somehow managed to move your fork. Look at the wear marks along the side of it... that is where it used to be seated/rub up against the trans and boot. You'll have to stick it back in.

It doesn't exactly move easily up. How do I go about doing this? Better yet, how do I go about doing this without removing a bunch of parts off the transmission and possibly screwing even more stuff up?

I am not mechanically inclined enough to wander through a new wilderness.

Your advice is greatly appreciated and I am happy that I am getting helpful responses.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2004/cl.pdf

Does not seem to be very helpful tho.

Not really sure man, usually there are springs, clips, and pivot bolts and whatnot that hold that fork in place. The best thing I can suggest would be to try and jiggle the hell out of it while pushing up and pray that it clicks in to where it needs to go.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Not really sure man, usually there are springs, clips, and pivot bolts and whatnot that hold that fork in place. The best thing I can suggest would be to try and jiggle the hell out of it while pushing up and pray that it clicks in to where it needs to go.

Well I push up and in and it looks like it might be in there close. I am not sure.

I will update as I go along, but I might be OK. Doubt it! But you never can tell.

Good luck man!

That's the weirdest thing I've seen.

Did you check the two operating cylinders to make sure they are the same size and the holes are the same. You could shim the cylinder out ~1/2" but there has to be a physical reason it doesn't line up.

That is unless that fork moved....
Were you able to move it left to right? (not forward/rearward).
If so than you are officially up a creek.

SteveTheTech wrote:That's the weirdest thing I've seen.

Did you check the two operating cylinders to make sure they are the same size and the holes are the same. You could shim the cylinder out ~1/2" but there has to be a physical reason it doesn't line up.

That is unless that fork moved....
Were you able to move it left to right? (not forward/rearward).
If so than you are officially up a creek.

Can move it forward up into the casing but it does not move from side to side, maybe just a tad, but not much.

I did compare the operating cylinders and they are the same size and model number. I replaced the original operating cylinder which came off my car so it had almost 100,000 miles on it. Needed to be changed out anyway. Now I am about to work on my master cylinder because that was the main culprit IMO. Any tips on removing it? The service manual suggests I remove most of the driver side interior to fix it, but what do you say? Seems a bit too much and possibly the reason such maintenance costs so much. Any hints?

OK. Slave cylinder installed. Master Cylinder installed. Tried to bleed the clutch line... nothing. No darn fluid coming out. No tension on the clutch pedal.

I am officially at my wits end and I am now sick of this. If anyone has any tips or hints or anything... please let me know because at this point I am now about ready to sell it and just say to heck with it.

bleeding takes forever with both new components. Did you bench bleed the master first? It might be air bound. You can try leaving the cap off the master (full of fluid), and loosen the bleeder on the slave and sort of leave it like that for a while. They call that gravity bleeding. You could also get a vacuum bleeder and try that.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:bleeding takes forever with both new components. Did you bench bleed the master first? It might be air bound. You can try leaving the cap off the master (full of fluid), and loosen the bleeder on the slave and sort of leave it like that for a while. They call that gravity bleeding. You could also get a vacuum bleeder and try that.

I have not tried gravity bleeding. I might try that. I am just really ticked about all of this and when I opened the bleeder and nothing came out at all I just about said screw it all.

OK any mechanically inclined or flat out technicians, I really need some guidance on this.

Tried a gravity bleed but no such luck. Looked at my operating cylinder and the release lever.I pressed on the lever and it went up and into the housing, but it clicked into place and sort of locked there. I'm not sure what is happening.

Still not fluid coming out of the bleeder. Next I plan to vacuum bleed just to get fluid down, but after I check to see if there is a blockage in the reservoir hose and if vacuum bleeding doesn't work, I am pretty much at a loss.

Please, anyone with substantial clutch experience help me out here. I am trying to save a few hundred bucks but I am almost to the point of having to. I love my car and I miss driving it.

I'm not familiar with the G's clutch hydraulic system, but the vacuum bleeder SHOULD work. Do you know if it has a clutch dampening box of bad joo joo, or is it more or less a constant hard/soft line from the master to the slave? If the vacuum bleeding doesn't work, you'll have to pull the master back out and bench bleed it.

Not sure about the line. Will have to check. As far as bench bleed, explain. I am unfamiliar with that.

ovrthtop34 wrote:Not sure about the line. Will have to check. As far as bench bleed, explain. I am unfamiliar with that.

Ovrthtop34

Welcome to Nico

I've been following your problem for the past two weeks as I had a sticky clutch pedal almost three years ago. The clutch slave cylinder and fluid was replaced at no cost to me at 92257 miles as I was still under the extended Infiniti Elite warranty.
I dropped off my G at the dealer ate a few free snacks, picked up a new loaner and returned the following day to pick up my G.
I recall asking how much the work would have cost if I was not under warranty. I was told a few hundred dollars.

I purchased the paper version of the FSM for my G right after purchase just so I could determine if certain repairs were beyond my comfort level.

Perhaps you should do the same?

Part of my automotive library



From the FSM

CLUTCH FLUID PFP:00017
Bleeding ACS004O4
CAUTION:
_ Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty.
_ Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the
affected area with water.
NOTE:
Do not use a vacuum assist or any other type of power bleeder on this system. Use of vacuum assist or power
bleeder will not purge all the air from the system.
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to the air bleeder.
3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold
it.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder. So I guess you need an assistant?
5. Close air bleeder.
6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds.
7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in the
brake fluid.
8. Tighten air bleeder to the specified torque. Refer

If you did not carefully follow the FSM instructions and you are over your head perhaps you should just call AAA and request a flatbed tow truck and take it to the local Infiniti dealer. At least you'll have it back in a day or two.
Just my $.02

Good luck

Telcoman

Well I am just afraid they will find something else wrong with the darn thing and I am just tired of paying money for this thing.

I already spent over $1000 for stuff I could have done myself but was too lazy to do it. Now that I am finding little things here and there, I am finding that it is starting to add up! I am going to try and vacuum bleed just to get the fluid going then I will do a standard bleed. If I cannot vacuum bleed then I will remove the master and check to see if there is a jam or whatever. Then I will remove the operating cylinder and check it out. If I cannot bleed it again... I am gonna find a decent non Infiniti mechanic who specializes in Nissan or Japanese vehicles and eat the "pay off". This is getting old and I am tired of seeing my car on jack stands.

Man it sounds like the worst case scenario.

I really think that you have a broken pivot point inside of the transmission. I have only seen this actually happen once but it can (and looks like it may very well have) broken off. If the operating cylinders match in size your most likely going to have to get the transmission removed.

On a positive side if you can find the Withdrawal lever ball pin you would only be out a few bucks. I do not know if you can get one separately.

I bet your clutch is working but it is not pushing anything since the lever that is moved is not connected anymore.

I understand what you are saying, but I pushed the lever up and it snapped tighter and seems to be where it is supposed to be. I am not sure. Does the lever have to be pushed into place and does it snap into position? I am just not sure.

Quick update: When I snapped the clutch in and it snapped, it also engaged my clutch. I think that my clutch is OK and my release lever is OK. I just need to get the clutch hydraulic system right.

Is there anyone familiar enough with it to suggest a way of handling this issue? I mean I was told I might need to "bench bleed" my master cylinder, but how do I do that? Do I have to remove it or can I do it while it is on the vehicle?

There is not an excessive amount of play in the lever.

@Gertrude: Nope. When the lever clicked in place it was nice and snug. Before I snapped it in there it moved up and down and forward and backward but not side to side.

Bench bleeding is essentially purging your (dry) master cylinder prior to installing it. With it on the bench you can push the cylinder in and recirc the fluid back to the reservoir at all sorts of different angles on the master, then install it into the system.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Bench bleeding is essentially purging your (dry) master cylinder prior to installing it. With it on the bench you can push the cylinder in and recirc the fluid back to the reservoir at all sorts of different angles on the master, then install it into the system.

OK, but do I need to do the same in order to get fluid started in it? I connected everything right, or at least in the reverse order I took it off. I am just bewildered as to why no fluid will come from the line when I try to bleed it?

I've had the same problem as you before, and despite trying to bleed the system for hours, I still needed to pull the master off. Granted, at that time I didn't have access to a vacuum bleeder.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I've had the same problem as you before, and despite trying to bleed the system for hours, I still needed to pull the master off. Granted, at that time I didn't have access to a vacuum bleeder.

So how does one "bench bleed" the master? Obviously I remove the cylinder, then what? There are two places where the master cylinder has connections. One is from the reservoir to the master, and the next is from the master to the fluid line leading to the operating (slave) cylinder. From what I gather, and correct me if I am wrong, the master pulls fluid when you press the pedal in and this retracts the operating cylinder which allows the release lever to engage the clutch. When you release the clutch, the fluid makes the operating cylinder disengage the lever, thus disengaging the clutch. So the main issue is getting fluid into the system as a whole so I can get the system working.

Also, what would drain a battery if no lights or anything like that is on? Mine is kind of dead now. WTF?