Clunk from front struts going over bumps...

[00pathyse]

I've got a knocking sound coming from my front suspension. A mechanic told me awhile ago that it was the front mounts or something and that it wasn't a real issue other than the clunking noise. I'm trying to figure out what part he was talking about. Do you guys know which part he could be talking about. I know it was something to do with the struts. Thanks.

[Towncivilian]

Strut mounts can cause clunking. How many miles do you have on your Pathfinder? Do you have the original suspension components?

[zach7685]

[Towncivilian]

Who needs bushings on stabilizer / sway bar links? I oughta check mine too just to make sure they're doing fine. Moog problem-solver greaseable ones are inexpensive at RockAuto (~$15 each for fronts, ~$16 each for rears). Individual bushings are also sold on RockAuto. Be sure to use a 5% discount code if you order anything from there.

[BoostMyQX4]

I changed the 2 front struts, both mounts and both sway bar links, clunking noise was gone after i change those parts, now i have to do the back ones.

[00pathyse]

Okay, maybe it was the strut mounts he was talking about then. I have 105000 miles on it,and the struts were replaced about 4-5 years ago but the mounts were not replaced. It has been clunking for the last couple years. Is replacing the mounts a difficult/expensive job?

What exactly are the strut mounts? Ive heard of strut pads too, is that the same thing?

[Towncivilian]

I've never heard of "strut pads".

Strut mounts attach the strut to the vehicle and dampen tire noise and vibrations, and help keep the wheel perpendicular. They should be replaced every time you replace your front struts. Mine had around 130k on them and were pretty worn, even though they weren't rusted at all thanks to Florida's very mild climate.

Strut mount replacement will involve removing the struts from the vehicle and disassembling them, so some special tools are required (spring compressors). Essentially it'd be just like replacing the struts again, so depending on your new struts' mileage it may be a good idea to replace these too. I'd get Raybestos or Sachs strut mounts from RockAuto. Also check your sway bar links' bushings as zach said above. If you order from RockAuto, be sure to use a 5% discount code I linked to above.

If you decide to get your strut mounts replaced, you'll need to replace some fasteners too. These would be the upper and lower strut mount nuts, and upper strut center nuts. If you want OEM part numbers for these, they are:

[01223-00321] NUT (quantity: 4)
lower mount nuts (2 per side)

[01225-00032] NUT (quantity: 2)
upper strut center nut (1 per side)

[01225-00231] NUT (quantity: 6)
upper mount nuts (3 per side)

[Buzzman]

Sometimes you can overthink the problem, and miss the obvious.
I say this because 90% of the time a clunking noise from the front end is nothing more than worn stabilizer links.
They are cheap and relatively easy to replace (if not too rusty).
If your links are more than a few years old, replace them. If the noise is still there, then move on to more troubleshooting.
Either way, replacing the links is a good investment. I've done mine 3 times so far.
Good luck.

[00pathyse]

Thanks for the info.

Since I dont think the struts are quite ready for replacement and I might as well replace the struts the same time i replace the mounts ill look into the links. I dont like to replace parts unless i know they are actually in need of replacement. How can I tell if the links are worn?

[zach7685]

Have somone rock the car while your under it. and look at the pic i posted look for that piece.

[00pathyse]

Thanks very much for pointing that out about the links. My mechanic had mentioned the strut mounts years ago and I had that in my head all this time as the problem. I held onto a link and rocked the car up and down and I can feel the clunk in my hand!

I was looking on RockAuto.com and there is a bunch of different brands. Should I got with Rabestos or sachs for these? Or do you suggest another brand for the links? Thanks

[Buzzman]

Zack is right. Try it by yourself first. Grab hold of the front fender wheel well and lift the front up as much as you can, then let it drop. Lift it up and down a few times, if it's the link, it will clunk. I've found that with mine, one side usually tends to be worse than the other. They don't always wear evenly. Having said that, I'd replace both of them at the same time no matter what.

[Buzzman]

I was looking on RockAuto.com and there is a bunch of different brands. Should I got with Rabestos or sachs for these? Or do you suggest another brand for the links? Thanks

I went with Nissan OEM. They were cheap enough that I didn't want to take a chance on third party crap.
Cheaper isn't always better.
When you order the links, make sure you get new nuts as well. Don't try and re-use the old ones.

[00pathyse]

I was pricing out Beck/Arnley for links and I can get them to my door for 65$ canadian. I'll have to call nissan in the morning and find out what their pricing is.

[Buzzman]

Keep us posted.

[zach7685]

another way is to jump like mad on the running boards XD

[Towncivilian]

I was looking on RockAuto.com and there is a bunch of different brands. Should I got with Rabestos or sachs for these? Or do you suggest another brand for the links? Thanks

I went with Nissan OEM. They were cheap enough that I didn't want to take a chance on third party crap.

Aftermarket components often are greaseable, whereas OEM components are generally sealed. Of course, each method has its drawbacks. I've read of greaseable parts having seals blow out early, and sealed components still not lasting any longer... I guess it's a toss-up. I don't have any first-hand experience since all my suspension components are factory save for struts/shocks and strut mounts & bearings.

If I have play in my links I'll probably end up getting those Moog problem-solver greaseable ones from RockAuto and see how they fare. I've completely ignored sway bar links. Though my mechanic didn't say anything about them when he replaced my front struts, so they are probably okay but I'll check regardless. Of course, I'll grease them every oil change (or more often if I'm feeling bored ). If they fail in a relatively short amount of time, I'll go OEM then.

[00pathyse]

I went with the Beck/Arnley, (and some gas-a-just shock too!) They seem to be quality products and I liked the idea of the sealed unit. Cheers.

[Towncivilian]

I checked out my sway bar bushings and they seem perfect, no tearing or grease leakage, and there doesn't seem to be any play (although I didn't have such great access since I didn't take the wheel off, and I'm a weakling). Is this realistic at 136k miles? I'm pretty sure they've never been replaced before.

[00pathyse]

You would know if they needed to be replaced. If you have any clunking it is pretty obvious it's the links when you hold onto one and bounce the car up and down. In the city I lived before the roads were pretty bad and that's when the clunking devolped. If you don't have any noise I would think they're fine.

I still haven't installed mine. Hopefully later this month along with new struts.

[ltsnotme]

So I was looking at strut mounts, as I'll be replacing my struts soon, and noticed there's a difference between the OEM mounts and all the aftermarket mounts at RockAuto. The OEM mount (image from CourtesyParts below) has a metal piece in the middle, while the aftermarket mounts apparently come with a separate metal spacer. Does it make no difference?

[00pathyse]

I used aftermarket KYB. They have been good. Just don't forget the spacer.The bearings that came with the mounts looked and felt identical to the OEM ones I pulled out. They have also been good so far.

[GRNMACHINE]

I went with All OEM mounts etc when replaced the struts. There were a alot of posts re: KYB mounts failing etc. Didnt want to take a chance. OEM discounted was outrageously expensive though.

Re: stabilizers, is an alignment needed after replacement?? Getting some clunking in the front, struts were replaced with KYB and OEM parts recently. For $40 or so, will try the Moogs, they used to have a Great Reputation and they are greasable.

[ltsnotme]

Well, I went with all OEM parts too. About $250 shipped, plus $113 for Excel-G's. The mounts were only a few bucks more than the aftermarket ones. Hopefully, this will fix the clunk that has recently developed in the left strut area.

[ltsnotme]

So I was looking at strut mounts, as I'll be replacing my struts soon, and noticed there's a difference between the OEM mounts and all the aftermarket mounts at RockAuto. The OEM mount (image from CourtesyParts below) has a metal piece in the middle, while the aftermarket mounts apparently come with a separate metal spacer. Does it make no difference?

For future reference: there is no spacer on an OEM mount either, and neither there's a need for one. I guess the picture is a generic one, or maybe one for a different-year Pathfinder. Also, my clunk seems to have gone away.