before realizing it was a throttle by wire system I cleaned my throttle body the way I normally do by manually holding open the throttle plate and cleaning it now idle is high with a high idle code 507 I clear it but it comes right back I've gone through the pedal & throttle valve position learing procedures along with the idle air volume learning procedure as specified in the service manual but idle is still high could I have damaged the throttle control actuator by holding it open manually I didnt force it open and it took very little effort to open any input would be appreciated thanks

sounds like someone forgot to tighten up all the intake clamps. maybe?

try this.......cycle the key on for 10 secs, then off....Repeat once. Then try the idle learn once more.

I did all the learn procedures 2 more times still high idle clamps all tight and no obvious air leaks has anyone manually moved the throttle valve to clean it and not had a problem afterwards I'm starting to think I damaged the the throttle body actuator I'd hate to have to buy a new throttle body assy for $500 just because my dumbass had to clean the throttle body any input is greatly appreciated

Engaging hands before reading and studying Factory Service Manual often creates these types of results. Why trade school wantabe technicans in training are not allowed to touch tools before they have completed 6 months of class room instruction.

Heck during the first year of transistion to drive by wire many OLD technicans made similar mistakes which took them many FREE hours to fix.

Let's ask something simple:

Did you use a new gasket? Calibrated torque wrench in FSM specified sequence?

Q45tech wrote:Engaging hands before reading and studying Factory Service Manual often creates these types of results. Why trade school wantabe technicans in training are not allowed to touch tools before they have completed 6 months of class room instruction.

Heck during the first year of transistion to drive by wire many OLD technicans made similar mistakes which took them many FREE hours to fix.

So are you saying he's screwed or just blatently making a point to which you will be able to help later?

What did you clean your throttle body with?

MAF Sensor damage?

I never took the throttle body off and I never sprayed throttle body cleaner directly into throttle body I used a rag with a little tb cleaner on it and wiped throttle plate and bore

Can you take a picture of your throttle plate? I've heard of the throttle plate screws coming loose and getting into the engine....possibly when you cleaned it, you incedentally made a problem worse???

I'd open it back up and check everything - 2wice

Well, while we are on the subject. What is the proper way to clean the throttle body on the 06+ Ms On my last car the best thing to do was turn the car to the on (not starting the engine) and then hold the gas pedal down. This would make the TB open wide while you sprayed cleaner inside. Worked very well and much cheaper than what the dealer would have charged.

It really sounds like the when the throttle plate was forced open one of the sensors (either CTP (closed throttle position) or internal TPS). You may be able to perform the Idle Volume Learning procedure to get the idle to drop but using the key cycle may not get it back into range. The tolerances are so minuet that any deviation will damage the unit.

90% of the time the above mentioned procedure will not work and replacement of the entire throttle body. Technically this is not a warranty issue since it worked until someone decided to mess with it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Live and learn hopefully others will learn for these simple mistakes and heed the warning, or face some out of pocket expense.

Are you using consult II to set idle?

SteveTheTech wrote:It really sounds like the when the throttle plate was forced open one of the sensors (either CTP (closed throttle position) or internal TPS). You may be able to perform the Idle Volume Learning procedure to get the idle to drop but using the key cycle may not get it back into range. The tolerances are so minuet that any deviation will damage the unit.

90% of the time the above mentioned procedure will not work and replacement of the entire throttle body. Technically this is not a warranty issue since it worked until someone decided to mess with it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Live and learn hopefully others will learn for these simple mistakes and heed the warning, or face some out of pocket expense.

So what is the best way to clean it when doing it yourself?

dont have a consultII I'm trying to do it manually tru key cycles and gas pedal cycles do you think consult would make a difference

M35 Sport wrote:
So what is the best way to clean it when doing it yourself?

There is no approved way to clean these style throttle bodies. However a light spray carb cleaner is applied properly and paying close attention to NOT TOUCH the throttle plate usually helps remove any surface debris that gets adhered the the plate. To do this properly remove the intake and spray it. I strongly recommend giving it a good half an hour to dry once you are done spraying. (Starting the engine earlier may cause a cel for a PO300-306 or something similar and a large cloud of noxious smoke)

These are just very VERY sensitive sensors that cannot be serviced or repaired in any safe way and even what was once routine maintenance can irreparably damage these essential drivetrain control devices.

joerut wrote:dont have a consultII I'm trying to do it manually tru key cycles and gas pedal cycles do you think consult would make a difference

It's highly unlikely that having access to a CII would make a difference. My professional advice would be to bite the bullet and take it in to get looked at. Whether you mention your previous "attempts" to repair or not is your call, but an erratic idle is enough to warrant a trip to the dealer.

Good Luck

I have never done it that way but im sure that it involves some kind of count correct? as in "key cycle on for a certain amount of seconds and depressing the pedal a certain amount of times within a specified time? Sometimes the problem with that is the count has to be perfectly timed.I would try it with Consult before jumping to the conclusion that you need a new throttle body.

Is the car under warranty? If it is, just take it in and act stupid. The less you say the better.I cleaned mine slightly, but I never forced open the throttle plate. I felt the resistance and decided it would be best to leave it alone. I didn't have any problems thankfully. Take my advise if it is under warranty.

J

M4T5 wrote:Is the car under warranty? If it is, just take it in and act stupid. The less you say the better.J

+1 on that. i would do the same thing. i would just say that "i went to start my car one morning and magically the idle won't go down"

DO NOT tell them that you touched it yourself!!!

car out of warranty just put a new throttle body with new gasket in and ..... Idle is still high looks like I'm dealer bound to get idle set up so much for that bs stuff in the service manual about being able to set it up manually I HATE GOING TO THE DEALER !!! the only other thing it could be is a vac leak but I checked all the clamps and sprayed carb cleaner around all joints looking for idle surge but nothing guess II'll have bite down and take it to the dealer It's a shame they cant make these cars more mechanic friendly

If there is a pending DTC you will not be able to reset the idle manually. The code needs to be shut off before attempting any relearn. There is also an adjustable LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) that over time adjusts to the current operating state of the engine. Although it may be running fine your ALPHA readings maybe up to 25% off in either lean or rich, this will alter the overall performance, fuel economy and long term reliability if the condition goes unaddressed.

There are many of these little diagnostic capabilities they all have very specific test parameters that must be met and the procedure must be done exactly as the manual states.

These cars are actually very serviceable the tools to service them have changed. With the advancements in technology there are certain things that have also had to change.

Keys, Idle Volume Learn, and Tire lights are the biggest one line complaints I see, all simple tasks that are quickly solved using the correct tools.

SteveTheTech wrote:Keys, Idle Volume Learn, and Tire lights are the biggest one line complaints I see, all simple tasks that are quickly solved using the correct tools.

too bad that tool costs a hunk of change - I guess you could get a cheap OBD2 reader to clear the codes - there are plenty online but the best one that I have ever seen is the Cifer from UpRev - $300

problem solved went to the dealer with my tail between my legs told them how I screwed up gave the service writer a little pocket grease 1hr later car fixed only charged me 1/2 hr labr needed a relearn with the consult III and told me to keep the old throttle body because it's prob still good boy would I have been pissed if I spent $500 on a new tb thankfully I got a reman but it looked new for only $113 moral of the story don't clean your throttle body it could end up costing you 225 or more and to think I was just trying to be nice to my car I hope that at least one person who reads this thread thinks twice before touching his tb and is saved the agony .

Many dollars saved for me. Coming from a VQ, I would have, for certain, torn into it and cleaned it up. THANKS!!

That being said, is it possible to remove the TB to gain access to the back side and clean it that way?...without permanent part damage issues?

If afterwards, I still need to have the dealer reset various paramaters, I'm cool with that and I'll pay for that, ....but not to turn wrenches on it when I can do that easily enough.

if you take the throttle body off with out unpluging it use a new gasket and tighten bolts in a criss cross pattern you should have no issues .I'm glad to have helped

I also removed and cleaned the throttle body. I have tried a number of times to do the manual resets i.e. idle air volume learning etc., but procedure does not seem to work. Still idles at about 1k. Time to go to dealer and have then use " consult" to reset I guess.

It happened on my 03Q but I was lucky since the car is low mileage (56K miles) and was still covered by the Powertrain Warranty (6-yr/70K miles) and CA Emission Warranty (7-yr/70K miles). The TB was replaced, ECM was re-programmed and IALV completed at Beshoff Infiniti-San Jose...all for free.

Lesson learned - do not move the throttle plate manually during cleaning as it can damage sensitive microswitches in the throttle body assembly. Per Steve The Tech suggestion, IF you need to clean the TB, remove the throttle plate (butterfly valve) then clean the plate and throttle body. DO NOT spray cleaner directly into the TB assembly - just on the rag used for cleaning. Also, do not clean too much as it may remove the sludge-resistant coating on the TB assembly.

Please refer to this thread for more info:

[ zer...issue]

joerut wrote: don't clean your throttle body it could end up costing you 225 or more and to think I was just trying to be nice to my car I hope that at least one person who reads this thread thinks twice before touching his tb and is saved the agony .

I am sorry to hear about your plight but glad to hear the outcome. Among the VQ35 related forums there is a lot of misinformation regarding this type of issue caused by maintenance with the best of intentions. Since 2002ish this has been an issue and I see this topic come up all the time in the G35 section.

ken in az wrote:
too bad that tool costs a hunk of change - I guess you could get a cheap OBD2 reader to clear the codes - there are plenty online but the best one that I have ever seen is the Cifer from UpRev - $300

I agree with you 100% as someone who needs to use this tool 5-10 times a day I cannot personally afford to buy my own either and I rely solely on the one unit that was forced upon my dealer. It is a good deterrent for people like me from buying one and rolling out of my dealer at least once a month. You can find a consult on ebay from time to time but what you cannot buy is the subscription to the software you need to keep the consult operating. The consult III (laptop) will stop operating if it is not updated at least once a month. Nissan really has people over a barrel when it comes to advanced diagnostics of these cars. Although the engine diagnostics can be accessed through the SAE standard protocal. I have a generic scanner that I frequently use to pull codes when both the CII and III are tied up in my shop and it works fairly well for code reading and clearing but for engine parameter monitoring a good quality multiemeter is the best way to base a diagnosis.