CiScO's build thread... sort of.

[ciscos13]

Well i never had a build thread, so i decided to post up pictures of what i took when my car was in the process of getting fixed. Car stil isnt finished and i think it never will especially with college and with no job at the moment. well here it is. pics will be up soon after i collect them all and put them in order.

[ciscos13]

Here are the pics
























































































































Left window rolled down before the swap so when the storms came this is wat they left behind.... this is one time that manual windows would come in handy .
























had to buy this ecu cuz i ended up burning out the stock one by wiring the wrong wires on the z32 maf.






















parking lot at school. you can even see the A for ASU at the top left hand corner!!!

[ciscos13]

Today i took my car to the track and ran a best time of 13.79 vs a mustang gt that stayed at the line for 12 seconds lol.
Specs on car is stock t25 turbo, fmic, 11psi of boost, street tires (13psi), stock clutch, open differential, fuel pressure regulator, manual boost controller. biggest problem on the track was traction, thats why i was running 13psi on tires lol. heres the time slip. idk if you can see it well. took it on my phone so sorry for crappy shot.



when i was running 14 pounds of boost the needle went down to 9 pounds at like 5500rpms. is that a spike boost/over boost? or is that a boost leak problem. after i saw that, i lowered the boost to 11psi and ran wats on the slip. no problems there.

[Hijacker]

Looks good and clean! What wheel and hub did you go with?

[OM3GA]

Nice progress, the old dash is like a desert.

[ciscos13]

Looks good and clean! What wheel and hub did you go with?

Steering wheel is from ebay. had bought the complete quick release from ebay but that stuff didn't even fit and felt too cheap. wheel seems decent though. i eventually went with the nrg hub.

[ciscos13]

a quick update on my car. well a mounth ago i ran against a stock 93 supra (had a front mount intercooler) and i barely got him by half a car. 20-70mph. got home and noticed oil had fell on my manifold. i realized it had shot oil up through the dipstick. filled it up with mobil 1 synthetic up to where its supposed to be. the next couple of days no problems with the car. the following week i was goin to race against a bolt on LT1. i decided to up the boost. when we ran, i saw my needle up to 16psi then it droped to 0 then went back up to 9 psi. i stopped and drove it to my cousins house which was a couple of streets down where we raced. same thing happened except this time smoke was coming from the exhaust. lots and lots of bluish/whitish smoke. did a compression test on all my cylinders and came out that cylinder 2 had no compression at all. so there was no other option than to tear the block apart.

[ciscos13]

Here is how piston #2 came out.









since one piston costs about 250 i decided to buy some cp pistons. im thinking of getting the 9.0:1 CR. what do you guys suggest? if i get the 9.0:1 will i have to get the arp headstuds or doesnt' need them. i think i will just to be more secure of my engine.

[Lobo240sx]

Ouch! Looks similar to one of my buddies Ka24de piston before he rebuilt it. What kind of fuel management do you have? I heard good about CP Pistons. I would get those or Weisco. Since you already have the engine taken apart definitely get some better Head studs(ARP). Those stock ones are probably bent to s*** and not recommended to reuse any studs on a rebuild.

[the converted]

That's one heck of a paper weight you have there. The 9.0 pistons should be fine. As far as the head studs go, that's more of a how much power are you shooting for on this rebuild? If you have the money to throw at them, it is a nice bit of insurance to have.

[Asia989]

an sr20 piston is like 50-55 bucks lol nice build nonetheless

[ciscos13]

update:

sr with cp pistons, cometic head gasket, and arp studs.

[ciscos13]

i thought i might do and update on my progress. had to remove the head a couple of times. installed xtd 6 puk clutch. primered my car once more. found out i had a bent valve. bought eight stock valves on craigslist (for pistons 1 and 4) for 40 bucks. got some nismo floor mats, got two new cracks on my dash ; at least, now my engine finally runs and idles smooth like before. shifting is alot harder with this clutch though. makes my transmission do the urkle dance at times haha. ill post some pictures tomorrow of how my cars sits as of now.

[chaos2000]

good ish so far bro!!! your #2 piston looks just like mine did on my s14sr in my s13 hatch.

[ciscos13]

good ish so far bro!!! your #2 piston looks just like mine did on my s14sr in my s13 hatch.

thx. from reading other posts it seems as piston #2 always seems to be the one that goes out first. was it also piston number 2? Its as if it was made to be the weakest link

[ciscos13]

i'm having a bogging issue with my sr. the car starts to bogg right around 2.5k. the car feels like its not going anywhere. after doing some checking here and there, i found out my car would start to run right after i advance the timing by two teeth. If i set it back to TDC it starts to do it again. Does anyone know why this would occur?

[ciscos13]

Here are a couple more pics of how my car sits now.




covered the stock spoiler holes



cracks on dash

[ciscos13]

i'm having a bogging issue with my sr. the car starts to bogg right around 2.5k. the car feels like its not going anywhere. after doing some checking here and there, i found out my car would start to run right after i advance the timing by two teeth. If i set it back to TDC it starts to do it again. Does anyone know why this would occur?

ok, i figured what was going on here. well, i was also having another problem with my car other than this. When ever i turned up the boost for my car, it wouldn't go past 9psi of boost. the nipple i made for the hot side as a vaccuum line had a boost leak. i clogged the leak up with some jb weld. i kept having the same problem so i switched it with one of the nipples on the tb and capped off the nipple on the hot pipe. after that, my car ran like a champ. i boosted up to 14psi on 5th gear 5500rpm. stopped right away and lowered the boost a bit till i got 12psi just where i wanted it. i realized i had more torque on lower rpms than before. i moved my timing to TDC and it worked. No more bogging. i switched the lines one more time as before (just to be sure) and i had the bogging again and couldnt get past 9psi. i guess i wasnt getting enough vacuume through the nipple on the hotpipe. PROBLEM SOLVED

[highwhey]

what did you use to cover up the holes in the trunk? nice to see another person from phx

i need to paint my s13 as well but it also has the damn holes in the trunk. you do all the work yourself? pretty impressive and nice progress.

[ciscos13]

what did you use to cover up the holes in the trunk? nice to see another person from phx

i need to paint my s13 as well but it also has the damn holes in the trunk. you do all the work yourself? pretty impressive and nice progress.

I used bondo. I first had to place a sheet a paper (from under the trunk) under the hole to hold the first layer of bondo. I let it dry, then placed some more to cover the hole completely then sanded it down until it cameout flat and smooth. and just primered it.

well most of it ive done. i did get some help from my dad and bro the very first time we set in the SR with cutting the front bumper support for the intercooler to fit and the intercooler holes, etc. that was when i starting to understand about cars. From then on ive done everything by myself. but yea, most of it was done by me. thx.

[ciscos13]

I got me these kyb front struts with zenn springs for 50 bucks which i think was a pretty good deal. Gonna put them on this friday to see how my car looks.

[ciscos13]

Well i just finished installing the kyb struts and this is a before picture.



this is kyb just in.



and this is when it was installed.


looks like it lowered my car by 1and 1/2 inches. It was easy to do this install. It was 10 bolts in total. three on top and two on the bottom(each side). What made it easy was by lowering and lifting up the car with the jack so the kyb would meet up with the hub connector thinging (i don't know what its called). then it was just putting in the two bolts.

[Lobo240sx]

Looks good. You need some brakes though bro. So you can skurrrt skurrrt in time.

[ciscos13]

Today i was decided to change my spark plugs due to backfiring while i was on WOT and this is how the spark plugs came out...







Anyone know why the tips of the spark plugs would break off?

[Lobo240sx]

What kind of plugs are those?? You need some NGK's for sure. Those plugs probably aren't rated for a SR turbo engine. Might be running too lean. Did you gap the plugs at all or they came out like that? How is your AFR?

[ciscos13]

What kind of plugs are those?? You need some NGK's for sure. Those plugs probably aren't rated for a SR turbo engine. Might be running too lean. Did you gap the plugs at all or they came out like that? How is your AFR?

These are NGKs, they are bkr7e a step colder than the bkr6e and yes i did gap them. About the AFR i have no idea since im not running one . I was surprised the car was still running. i did run the car with a boost leak for one month, maybe that would be what caused it??

[ciscos13]

It's been a long while since i gave any updates on my car. Well i have good news and bad news. Good news is I finally got to paint my car. The bad news is my motor might need a rebuild pretty soon. The spark plug problem i was having in june was due to the crappy fpr I bought from ebay. It has stock fpr now. It was making my car run lean (13.7+ on the afr at WOT) and i didn't figure it out until i bought a wideband. Thats what i get for playing with ebay crap i guess. My car runs good and all but blows oil through the dipstick when im on WOT @ 6k+ rpm. Most likely my rings are gone. So now i just cruise it. I managed to get another blown SR w/out turbo or wiring/ecu but everything else complete for pretty cheap. I'm planning on rebuilding that one while my motor lasts then swap em out. As for now this is how it sits.

[Yellow4g63]

Spark plugs won't make you run lean. Your having other major problems with fuel. Did you change to bigger fuel pump like a 255lph? If you did then rewire the fuel pump with a relay so it gets 12v directly. Your running way too lean and prob too much ignition advance for the weather you drive in. You prob toasted a piston again, while forged pistons are stronger they are not indestructible.

[ciscos13]

Spark plugs won't make you run lean. Your having other major problems with fuel. Did you change to bigger fuel pump like a 255lph? If you did then rewire the fuel pump with a relay so it gets 12v directly. Your running way too lean and prob too much ignition advance for the weather you drive in. You prob toasted a piston again, while forged pistons are stronger they are not indestructible.

It was my crappy fuel pressure regulator. For some reason it wasn't sending the amount of fuel needed to the injectors making my motor run very lean thus causing my spark plugs to melt?? I did raise the fuel pressure on the gauge but was still having the same problem. Once i installed my stock fuel pressure regulator i had good afr but it was a little too late for that. I did do a compression test though and got 145-155 on all four cylinders so i'm not sure if it is the rings/pistons. Motor does run strong and all but spits oil through the dipstick if i rev it high.

[Yellow4g63]

Do a leak down test it should give you better information. What size injectors do you have?