Post by
KnightVision »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/knightvision-u167407.html
Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:40 pm
Knight Vision: I have completed the proceedure and my additions are below.
Before you begin, or once you're done cussing and swearing because the damn thing won't budge, go out and buy a long handled flat-head screw-driver, 20 inches or longer. I paid $2 for mine at Kragen.
Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover.
Remove the bellows from the throttle chamber to air filter, and pull off the valve cover breather tube with the bellows.
Reach over to the brake booster vacuum hose and turn the spring hose clamp about 45 degrees counter clockwise, this will keep the clamp from cutting your elbow during the sensor removal process.
Now place a drop light under the two rubber brake hoses shining foward. Between the valve cover and the throttle chamber look straight down toward the ground. See a plug and black sensor held to the engine block with a goldcolored 10mm hex headed bolt? That is ths sucker that has leaked oil into the plug and has caused the P0335 code. Getting it unplugged and removed is the hard part.
(Insert the 20" long screw-driver down between the valve cover and the throttle chamber. When you slide down the green button, use the screw-driver in between the plug and the sensor to break the plug free. Simply pulling on the wires won't work, and could damage your plug.)
It takes gorrillia fingers to slide down the green release button and then pull on the wires to remove the plug.
Next is to use two, 2" long 1/4" drive extensions and a 10mm socket and ratchet handle. Take the bolt out using a pair of 6" regular slip jaw pliers and twist and pull the 1 1/2 inch long crank sensor rearward. The replacement (sensor)will be a metal (cylinder)and (installs)180 degrees backward, (allowing future access to the bolt so that the sensor can be removed before unplugging it).
Plug the sensor into the harness plug BEFORE bolting it into the block. Once on the block, you won't be able to plug the connector onto the sensor.
After washing the plug out with spray brake cleaner, blow out with compressed air to get rid of the oil. Plug the metal sensor into the wire and watch the green thing pop back, then place the sensor back into its hole. Bolt it in place. Good luck.
I have done hundreds of them. Customers pay retail price around 170 dollars at the Nissan Dealer, but my work is backed by a nationwide guarantee, 12/mos. 12,000 miles.
Source(s):
Nissan Master Technician
Added to by Knight Vision: "Powered by Gatita, HMG": (ALL text in parenthesis)
TRICK: If you put a socket on your finger, 15mm for me, when you try to push (slide) the green release tab down, it makes the sensor plug much easier to remove, (or use a stubby screw-driver or 2" extention to push it in.)
(Understand, you need to slide the green button down the shaft toward the block, don't try to sqeeze it into the body of the sensor.)
(Before you begin, or once you're done cussing and swearing because the damn thing won't budge, go out and buy a long handled flat-head screw-driver, 20 inches or longer. Insert the screw-driver down between the valve cover and the throttle chamber. When you slide down the green button, use the screw-driver in between the plug and the sensor to break the plug free. Simply pulling on the wires won't work, and could damage your plug.)
Good Luck!
(Using the screw-driver will also make separating the sensor from the block much easier too.)
KnightVision
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:22 am
Car: 2005 Nissan Altima 4 cyl.
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