Changing crankshaft position sensor on a 2002 nissan altima 2.5L

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hondacivicsipower
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:00 am
Car: 93 S13 Coupe

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I was finally able to pinpoint this sensor, however, I am having a hard time tryning to get to it.I tried under the car, but with the exhaust and subframe in the way, there is no way in hell to get to it.I think the only way is via the top removing the air tube, etc.Any ideas.O BTW, it is stalling like crazy, and the car did get the updated ecu.This problem is a PITA


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S14-NEO
Posts: 1385
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:38 am
Car: 1995 nissan 240sx RB25 NEO powered

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the best way i have found to get at the crank sensoris to yes remove the air intaketube assy. caution...some have teh locking connectors with the green springloaded lock...be careful..all in all shouldnt take you more than 10 minutes tops from start to finish

ELEMENT692121
Posts: 154
Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:59 pm
Car: 93 240 SX SE

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take the intake tube off and you can reach down and feel the plug you have to push in the button to release the plug not like a regualr push down and release you actually ahve to push it in then pull off the plug then you need to remove the 10 mm bolt get a small pair of needle nose plyers and pull on it it will come just not easy ..the new sensor should have the tab for the lock on the plug 180 deg off from the origonal and dont worry the sensor is gonna look a lil diff than the origonal .. just plug it in pop it in and bolt it down .. its easyer to plug the new one in first since the plug it in a diff position when you pulled it out ..

hondacivicsipower
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:00 am
Car: 93 S13 Coupe

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Word of advice for the newer style metal connector crankshaft and camshaft sensors.I figured out how to change it(crankshaft), however, since the connector was 180 off, I had trouble plugging the new sensor in because the engine block was in the way.I had to change the old cam sensor for the crank and put my new sensor on the head because of the block interference on the block for the crankshaft sensor.

glaxo2
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:20 pm

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Changed my sensor today, locating it and then getting the plug off was the hardest part. On my 2003 it was located on the back of the engine straight down from the throttle body, but it's very hard to see. I had more room to work and see by removing the air intake tube assembly and the throttle body. It took me a while to figure out how to get the plug off, and finally found out that all you need to do is push in with a screw driver from the front until it clicks and then pull the plug off.[IMG][/IMG]http://www.geocities.com/glaxo2/sensor.jpg

r_nally
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:36 am
Car: 2003 Nissan Altima

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I am working on my 03 and I can't get the plug off, I saw your picture but I am still a little unclear about how to get the plug off. I can hardly grab the thing let alone get a screw driver down there.

If you could give any advice as to exactly how to get the plug off it would be greatly appreciated

r_nally
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Aug 25, 2008 6:36 am
Car: 2003 Nissan Altima

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A picture is worth a thousand words, I figured it out, just needed to get more light down there so I could see what I was doing.

Because I could only get one hand down there, I took a flat head screw driver, pushed on the green tab as shown in the picture, then grabbed the wire with one finger and pulled back and presto it came off!

Thanks to glaxo2 for the picture, saved me $140...

BTW autozone has the revised sensors for $24

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carmo
Posts: 337
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:54 pm
Car: 92 Accord, 90 Civic, 89 240sx

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You may try practicing the clip release procedure on a different sensor that you can get to. that may help. Those plugs SUCK!!!

KnightVision
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:22 am
Car: 2005 Nissan Altima 4 cyl.

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Knight Vision: I have completed the proceedure and my additions are below.

Before you begin, or once you're done cussing and swearing because the damn thing won't budge, go out and buy a long handled flat-head screw-driver, 20 inches or longer. I paid $2 for mine at Kragen.

Remove the (4) allen head bolts that hold the plastic engine cover.

Remove the bellows from the throttle chamber to air filter, and pull off the valve cover breather tube with the bellows.

Reach over to the brake booster vacuum hose and turn the spring hose clamp about 45 degrees counter clockwise, this will keep the clamp from cutting your elbow during the sensor removal process.

Now place a drop light under the two rubber brake hoses shining foward. Between the valve cover and the throttle chamber look straight down toward the ground. See a plug and black sensor held to the engine block with a goldcolored 10mm hex headed bolt? That is ths sucker that has leaked oil into the plug and has caused the P0335 code. Getting it unplugged and removed is the hard part.

(Insert the 20" long screw-driver down between the valve cover and the throttle chamber. When you slide down the green button, use the screw-driver in between the plug and the sensor to break the plug free. Simply pulling on the wires won't work, and could damage your plug.)


It takes gorrillia fingers to slide down the green release button and then pull on the wires to remove the plug.

Next is to use two, 2" long 1/4" drive extensions and a 10mm socket and ratchet handle. Take the bolt out using a pair of 6" regular slip jaw pliers and twist and pull the 1 1/2 inch long crank sensor rearward. The replacement (sensor)will be a metal (cylinder)and (installs)180 degrees backward, (allowing future access to the bolt so that the sensor can be removed before unplugging it).

Plug the sensor into the harness plug BEFORE bolting it into the block. Once on the block, you won't be able to plug the connector onto the sensor.

After washing the plug out with spray brake cleaner, blow out with compressed air to get rid of the oil. Plug the metal sensor into the wire and watch the green thing pop back, then place the sensor back into its hole. Bolt it in place. Good luck.

I have done hundreds of them. Customers pay retail price around 170 dollars at the Nissan Dealer, but my work is backed by a nationwide guarantee, 12/mos. 12,000 miles.
Source(s):
Nissan Master Technician

Added to by Knight Vision: "Powered by Gatita, HMG": (ALL text in parenthesis)


TRICK: If you put a socket on your finger, 15mm for me, when you try to push (slide) the green release tab down, it makes the sensor plug much easier to remove, (or use a stubby screw-driver or 2" extention to push it in.)

(Understand, you need to slide the green button down the shaft toward the block, don't try to sqeeze it into the body of the sensor.)



(Before you begin, or once you're done cussing and swearing because the damn thing won't budge, go out and buy a long handled flat-head screw-driver, 20 inches or longer. Insert the screw-driver down between the valve cover and the throttle chamber. When you slide down the green button, use the screw-driver in between the plug and the sensor to break the plug free. Simply pulling on the wires won't work, and could damage your plug.)

Good Luck!

(Using the screw-driver will also make separating the sensor from the block much easier too.)
KnightVision


Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:22 am
Car: 2005 Nissan Altima 4 cyl.
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