Thanks, I'm just very meticulous and picky which is why it takes me forever to build anything. The valve cover vents were drilled and tapped -8 and the pcv was drilled and tapped -6.Duke89 wrote:looks great like it was factory almost lol. and i think you might be on to something withe the valve covers.
chad b. wrote:The motor started smoking the other night, so I have decided to pull it and part it all out. Going back to a KA, something simple and easy. I'm through with RB's. I'm posting it in the classifieds.
Damn he didn't sych the timing at all then? just got it to fire up and tuned it that way?chad b. wrote:Na, not giving up. Should have made an update a time ago. After some investigation, I found that the guy I paid to do startup calibration on the car did not set the CAS up properly in the AEM. In the end, it had too much timing. On pump gas, it was only a matter of time until it let go. I have since bought another long block and have not decided if I will build this one or put in back in stock.
Yes i was being serious, i didn't realize the block was so bad that a light hone wont remove the imperfections... Your whole demeanor is to save money on this build.. i'm just suggesting options.. like Carl said resizing rods is cheap.. and using stock pistons will work fine, rods are the weak point IMOchad b. wrote:Are you being serious? My block that is blown is no good. The top of #4 cylinder is scorched really bad. It would need to be bored and honed. My brother's car is finally of the lift, so I'll be pulling my car over to our shop soon to get started on it. For my hp goals (475-500) I don't really need a built block, and honestly, I'm tired of dropping so much money into this car.
Plus, you can't install ARP rob bolts in stock rods without getting them machined. If I was to do all that, I'd just go ahead and build the motor.