Ca18de hesitation

[leadpaw]

This may seem like a repeat but I havent really seen a clear answer to this problem. My ca18de bogs and hesitates heavily when cold, but when i disconnect the ECU water temp sensor the motor runs perfectly. I get code 55 from the ecu. Could it still be my water temp sensor? Ive cleaned and checked for vacuum leaks. I also cleaned the MAF, AAC, and checked the air regulator. Furthermore with the temperature sensor plugged in the motor runs good once warmed up.


Thanks!

[TheMAN]

code 55 means "all OK"
you need to check the resistance of the temp sensor... it will most likely be out of spec... if it's doing what you described, it is bad and needs a replacement
the ECU uses the sensor's value to determine the fuel ratios.. if it's off, then the engine won't run right

[leadpaw]

I didnt want another cold hesitation thread to go without resolution so here it goes. Got a code 11 from the ecu a while later. Changed the CAS, BAM runs perfectly; cold, freezing cold, and warm. Yay!

[float_6969]

I'm also starting to see a lot of CAS related running issues at my father in law's shop that I work at on Saturday's. Remember that these CAS's won't last forever, and as they all age about the same rate, we're going to start seeing an increase in these components failing.

[boost_boy]

I'm also starting to see a lot of CAS related running issues at my father in law's shop that I work at on Saturday's. Remember that these CAS's won't last forever, and as they all age about the same rate, we're going to start seeing an increase in these components failing.

You are right, but alot of guys think it's their harnesses and that is a fool's guess. Poor diagnoses coupled with a poor wiring job equals everyone blaming their harnesses for their engines not running correctly. But what do I know right

[leadpaw]

I thought it was my harness at first....Lol. but the resistance check from ecu to the cas plug were all good,it had a good ground, and the voltage at terminal B was at battery voltage. Soo CAS it was. All hail oh great FSM.


I still find it interesting that it ran so well in temp sensor Fail safe mode, even with a faulty cam angle signal..

[leadpaw]

The hesitation came back, along with really erratic timing off idle(which was probably the case since i got the motor), and code 11 reappeared with 2 known good crank angle sensors. I was dumbfounded till I found this...a Super worn out CAS drive pin. Ive always had a feeling this was the problem but from what I heard it doesnt happen too often. Time to check if the timing cover alignment dowels are proper, CAS centered in its mount, and wait for the new part to come in from jwt....



I was wondering why my cas was full of rusty powder...

[leadpaw]

Got the new cas drive from jimwolftech. funny how one little pin can mean the difference between a decently fast car to 2nd gear wheel spin. Oh yeah and cold driveability.

Cam removed and cleaned


Drilled through the cas drive pin with a 5mm drill then tapped to M6x1.0mm


wasnt very successful with the way Jwt did it in their instructions so I devised my own way with a spacer, a m6x1 bolt and nut, and a couple of washers


Thread that bolt all the way in then start tightening the nut


BAM


comparison


Didnt have pics of install though, just took an old CAS, knocked out the pin holding the female side of the coupling, then used the female coupling to hammer the new pin in. Just had to be really careful about keeping the pins original alignment as any misalignment will be magnified due to the 2:1 cam crank ratio.

[float_6969]

Awesome! I didn't know replacing the pin was an option!

[cbh148]

that's crazy. how is the pin itself "keyed" to the cam? and what's holding it in there?

[cbh148]

Nevermind, I'm an idiot.

I was thinking the drives you have pictured went in backwards.

[TheMAN]

neat! probably easier than using a slide hammer

[float_6969]

Nevermind, I'm an idiot.

Signature material

[chalander]

So I am at the cross roads where I have to choose a new exhaust camshaft or to do this procedure as you have leadpaw. My only insicurity with doing this is insuring the alignment of the new pin is exactly 100% during installment. Is this difficult? How does one know if the alignment is correct when they are putting it in?
Thanks

[leadpaw]

In reply to the pms i got:

I marked the original position of the flat part of the half circle protrusion (permanent marker on the cam) on the drive pin, then aligned the new drive pin to the marks i made.

heres a pic of the half circle i am talking about, http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y67/Ra ... G_0007.jpg be sure to mark it before removing it. Also makes sure your marks dont get erased. It should line up with the crank pulley alignment pin if anything. Furthermore take pictures of the cam before you remove the pin.

There are instructions on install for the VG30DE/TT on jim wolf technologie's website but the pin on the ca18de/t is 180 degrees opposite to the VG30DE/TT .

Good luck!

[float_6969]

Also, it doesn't need to be accurate to some crazy level. The CAS has a very wide range of adjustment that will easily compensate if it's off a little bit.

[leadpaw]

Also, it doesn't need to be accurate to some crazy level. The CAS has a very wide range of adjustment that will easily compensate if it's off a little bit.

yes, mine was off by like 1 degree, no biggie.

[boost_boy]

Just buy yourself a good exhaust camshaft and call it a day. You can perhaps use your damage exhaust cam as intake cam and go for the cheap upgrade. I don't miss the crank angle sensor at all, but I do have plenty of good ones lying around .