I need brakes for the front tires and smoothing of the rotors. I have a M35 and I would like to know would it be best to take it back to the dealer or to any of those shops that do the work also. Please help me out.

I learned that when it comes to getting your rotors turned, any reputable shop can do it.

They all warrant the work, so if for some reason it doesn't stop the pulsation, just take it back.

It can be almost twice as much at Infiniti, although I trust my tech at the dealer.

I just had new rotors and brakes installed on my M45. Performance is excellent, absolutely no vibrations at all when braking.

The rotors I bought were Roto-Tech Cryo by frozenrotors.com http://www.frozenrotors.com/pr...cryo/

Brake Pads were EBC Red Stuff (ceramic).

http://www.autoanything.com/br....aspx

Here is a picture I took with them installed



I had a local auto shop install mine.

You get better service at the dealership, but you have to pay more. Here at Beshoff Infinit-San Jose, brake service per axle (front or rear) is @ $280, which includes new pads and rotor turn. Price in your area is probably higher.

You have to do brake burnishing after the service (on a deserted highway/road, do 60MPH down to 10 MPH braking 10 times, NEVER FULL STOP which can cause hot spots on the rotor) to ensure the rotors are properly beaded and avoid warping in the future. Infiniti recommends 31MPH to 0MPH braking, probably to avoid liability issues.

If you are handy with tools, I can give you a procedure to replace the brake pads and rotors.

I'm also in Raleigh and put on what Dvan did.

Nice equipment, but expensive. I had the dealer do the installation as once before I had a local Firestone shop do it (on another Infiniti) and they left off the anti rattle clips. Look for service coupons to your local dealer's website.

Unfortunately, if you need the rotors turned, they'll probably give you a few months before they need it again, at which point they will need to be replaced anyway.

Diva5000 wrote:I need brakes for the front tires and smoothing of the rotors. I have a M35 and I would like to know would it be best to take it back to the dealer or to any of those shops that do the work also. Please help me out.

To echo what Double E said, if they turn the stock rotors (because they are warped), you would only have another 10k miles at best before they warp again and then you will have to get new ones. You might as well replace the stock rotors with high performance ones, that way you may never have to replace your rotors again.

dvan wrote:
To echo what Double E said, if they turn the stock rotors (because they are warped), you would only have another 10k miles at best before they warp again and then you will have to get new ones. You might as well replace the stock rotors with high performance ones, that way you may never have to replace your rotors again.

WISHFUL thinking to actually expect ANY rotor to be last the lifetime of car....function of weight of car VS rotor size{weight}....heat disapation

qship96 wrote:
WISHFUL thinking to actually expect ANY rotor to be last the lifetime of car....function of weight of car VS rotor size{weight}....heat disapation

hrm...i did use the word "may" in that sentence right? Besides, a high quality frozen rotor like the one above will probably last at least 2-3x longer than any stock rotor. So technically, it could last longer than most people would even keep their own cars before selling/trading it in.

dvan wrote:I just had new rotors and brakes installed on my M45. Performance is excellent, absolutely no vibrations at all when braking.

The rotors I bought were Roto-Tech Cryo by frozenrotors.com http://www.frozenrotors.com/pr...cryo/

Brake Pads were EBC Red Stuff (ceramic).

http://www.autoanything.com/br....aspx

Here is a picture I took with them installed



I had a local auto shop install mine.

I have the same exact rotors and after one raining day it will leave rust spots on the rotors. The spots mainly in the middle will not come off.

tigerclaws1318 wrote:
I have the same exact rotors and after one raining day it will leave rust spots on the rotors. The spots mainly in the middle will not come off.

Post pics please. Im planning on getting frozen roters...

tigerclaws1318 wrote:
I have the same exact rotors and after one raining day it will leave rust spots on the rotors. The spots mainly in the middle will not come off.

Really? Well Ive had these on for a little over a week now and have yet to see any rust develope on the rotors. Its rained and snowed a few times since I had them installed too.

The rust spots you see won't come off because the pads don't contact those spots. I have my car parked on the street so after a day of rain the entire rotor is rusted like hell.

thanks for your reply, so what kind of rotors should i get. please inform.

thanks, but i'm not handy with tools

Hi Double E, where in raleigh can i get this service done, i'm just trying to get the best service without going back to my dealer, do you have any suggestions?????

what are high proformance rotors that i can get

Wow...all that rust happened in 1 day? That doesn't seem right

First, the only way to prevent the rust issue is to paint the top hat section and areas not contacted by the pads & wheel. Tape off the area & use High temp paint.

Second, it's just surface rust and will never result in a crumbling part that has to be replaced due to a rusty rotor. Strictly cosmetic. Get past this concern as it is a non-issue concerning functionality.

Last, for Diva again, ...I had the dealer do the installation ...as once before I had a local Firestone shop do it (on another Infiniti) and they left off the anti-rattle clips. Look for service coupons to your local dealer's website for a decent price. Order the parts and from frozen rotors and bring the parts to them. I even used my old brake pads (EBC Red Stuff) that had plenty of life on them and they've been great.

You can also get nickel or zinc plating on the rotors from some vendors. This prevents rust where the pads do not touch.

Z

Tigerclaws,

So you got the exact same rotors as me? You may have got a bad set of rotors (if thats possible..). I have had my car sit 4 or 5 times over night in the rain plus snow and I dont have a hint of rust on mine, yet anyway.

dvan wrote:Tigerclaws,

So you got the exact same rotors as me? You may have got a bad set of rotors (if thats possible..). I have had my car sit 4 or 5 times over night in the rain plus snow and I dont have a hint of rust on mine, yet anyway.

It could be a possible set of defective rotors just like I might have a defective battery that died in 2 days lol. It is raining over here at the moment and I will take a picture of the rotors the next day. You won't believe how rusted the rotor gets.

Hi, can you email me instructions for replacing the front and rear rotors? My email address is [email protected]. Thanks

Mopson, I sent you the procedure, including the link to the M35/45 FSM

loystock wrote:Mopson, I sent you the procedure, including the link to the M35/45 FSM

Hey there, I am looking at changing my rotors as well, on my 2007 M35X, Could you send me the procedure and links as well. thanks

Would one of you using the drilled rotors please take more pics. Specifically close ups of the drilled holes? I've had drilled rotors in the past and after 1 year cracks begin developing around the drilled areas. And these rotors were CNC machined not press drilled.

M

Just picked up my DBA 4000 6x6 slotted rotors and HAWK ceramics. Front L/R, Rear L/R and pads F/R for $830. Thoughts on pricing?

M

Tirerack grand total quote of $777.99 is best I could find on the DBA 4000's and Hawk HPS pads.

J

Remember the antinoise shims are designed to match [correct for] oem pads only. As such varying results make occur with different compounds and temperatures.

Eagle Pitcher Wolverine Division "Dual Active" Material tuned shim
http://www.wolverine.cn/files/pdf/shim.pdf

I refer you to this previous discussion:
brake-shims-t312638.html

msvara wrote:Just picked up my DBA 4000 6x6 slotted rotors and HAWK ceramics. Front L/R, Rear L/R and pads F/R for $830. Thoughts on pricing?

M

The ceramic type pads are too hard and cause excessive heat build up. They do last longer than metallic or semi-metallic pads, but the ceramic material will wear down and possibly warp the rotors a lot sooner than metallic type pads.
Ceramic pads also do not usually have dust build up issues like metallic type pads.
Then again, metallic type pads have better overall bite into the rotor which in turn gives you better stopping power and shorter stopping distances.
Different pad types all have pluses and minuses, so use your best judgement.

But whatever any of you do, do not match up ceramic type pads with any OEM or OEM replicated type rotor! It will warp those type of rotors very quickly.

J

Every brake pad is a MIXTURE of ceramic and metal fibers, really lots of floor scraps from different manufaturing processes all combined into a secret cake mix that purports to do something magical.

On vehicle manufactures have the money to test different compounds exhaustively to fit the parameters their engineers want.

Every aftermaket compound [except expensive special racing compounds] are the oem compound of some other car or something built up and submitted to oem that didn't make the cut.

Speciality brake pad companies buy oem pad back plates and put their compound on the plate and sell it as something special worthy of their cost.............BS.

All in all oem pads are the best COMBINATION of performances to suit most people in cold, hot, wet weather especially if NOISE is any consideration or performance that maintains symetry from new to half worn.

Pad [just like tires] change as they wear down half way conducting more heat to the backing metal pad and shims.

Every engineer KNOWS more than half worn tires or brake pads are not delivering as brand new performance.