I've got a 1990 240sx hatch with a RB20DET swap that has a weird problem...I just noticed that my brake lights are continuously lit up (yes, the 2 in each tail AND the high-mount center).

I've checked the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1989/1989.pdf) and on page EL-46 I see that "STOP LAMP SWITCH" M23 is the only thing between the tail lamp fuse and the tail lamps. I've pulled the fuse and the lights go out, so I am 99% sure that there is nothing wrong with the wiring because the lights are dependant on the fuse (so there is no short providing continuous power).

Anyways, I want to replace the STOP LAMP SWITCH M23 but I've looked at my brake pedal and couldn't seem to spot it. Can anyone post a pic of that switch or atleast tell me how to locate it?? Once I can find it, I will then need to replace it, so does anyone know how to acquire such a random part??

Thanks,

--TJ

stop lamp switch for a 240

zerothread?id=272469


Modified by vancouverbc at 2:07 PM 8/14/2008

There's probably nothing wrong with the switch. If you look at the brake pedal, and follow the brake pedal arm up, you'll find the switch located under the dash where the pedal arm should contact it. Unfortunately, Nissan decided to place a small plastic plug in the brake pedal arm where the switch makes contact with it, and the plastic plug tends to deteriorate over time and fall out, causing your brake lights to remain on. I installed a nut and bolt through this hole, and readjuste the switch. No more brake light problems

Foneman38 wrote:There's probably nothing wrong with the switch. If you look at the brake pedal, and follow the brake pedal arm up, you'll find the switch located under the dash where the pedal arm should contact it. Unfortunately, Nissan decided to place a small plastic plug in the brake pedal arm where the switch makes contact with it, and the plastic plug tends to deteriorate over time and fall out, causing your brake lights to remain on. I installed a nut and bolt through this hole, and readjuste the switch. No more brake light problems

yah, thats exactly what happened to me, except I use some wire mesh and a bunch a bubble gum (still works)

ive been looking and cant find it. how far is it up the arm? how do you even access it? my hand wont go up too far. any help would be appreciated!

it's pretty far up there. my advise; recline the seat, then lay down in it upside down so your head is resting under the pedals and you're looking at them from underneath. since they're on the opposite side from where you're sitting, you can't really see the switches unless you get a mirror or your head almost on the pedals.

thats what i was doing. is the part that needs replacing on the same side of the pedals or on the firewall?

here you can see the switches, above the steering column.

back side of the pedal arm, the 2 nuts and bolts in the picture have replaced the plastic pieces and are pushing on the switches. if you look at your pedals, what you should see is the break arm, with one or two empty holes, and the push switches going right through them, not being actuated.

thank you! another one of those time i wish nico had +rep

one quick note: if what ever you plug them with is thick, you might have to adjust the threaded fork. if your solution keeps the break pedal from being at its original resting position, your break booster won't open enough to allow vacuum to be relieved, and after a couple miles of driving your breaks will slowly lock on you.

they will stay that way until you pop the hood and pull the break booster vacuum line off, then it will be fine for another couple of miles but it will keep doing it until you adjust the pedal.

thanks for the tip! i will definitely remember that when i go to fix it haha

i looked again today and still could really find what i was looking for. you think you could edit one or both of those pics with arrows?? i feel like a complete idiot just asking. its bad enough theres a problem. its even worse that i cant even find it!!

bumppp

I think that is what he is talking about.

Bump because this thread solved my problem.
My solution was to insert one of the plastic plugs from the rear carpeted area into the hole and allow the sensor to be engaged.



I have a couple of pictures and my solution on my site here: http://givemeshred.com/brakelights-dont-work-why/

I had the same problem but used some electrical tape and paper folded severa times to create a wall so the activator would get pushed in. It been over a year and no problems so far.