Did a search and could not find anything pertaining to brake fluid replacement, hence the question:

Which fluid is best to be used? DOT3 or 4?

I have a pressure bleeder, but is there anything tricky about the M when it comes to brake bleeding? I have done many other cars, so I know what I am doing.

I will also need to adjust my parking brake, as it is not grabbing well at all. In my service records, it looks as the previous owner put new rear pads and rotors 3k miles ago (28k miles) at the dealer, but they apparently forgot to take care of the e-brake. Is the adjustment as easy as the service manual portrays it to be?

Thanks in advance.

tytamto wrote:Did a search and could not find anything pertaining to brake fluid replacement, hence the question:

Which fluid is best to be used? DOT3 or 4?

I have a pressure bleeder, but is there anything tricky about the M when it comes to brake bleeding? I have done many other cars, so I know what I am doing.

I will also need to adjust my parking brake, as it is not grabbing well at all. In my service records, it looks as the previous owner put new rear pads and rotors 3k miles ago (28k miles) at the dealer, but they apparently forgot to take care of the e-brake. Is the adjustment as easy as the service manual portrays it to be?

Thanks in advance.

I am one slowly learning about this car as well. You can use use DOT 3 or DOT 4 type brake fluid. Both are compatible with each other. However, Nissan recommends DOT 3 brake fluid. As for the E-brake goes, if the car has a small internal type drum brake that is integrated into the entire rear rotor, it should be fairly straight forward to adjust. The best thing to do would be to buy a new set of e-brake shoes since you will already be getting into it that far. If the rear rotors were original, I would suggest replacing the rear rotors due to the e-brake drum section being possibly worn. Since you have record of them being replaced this will not be necessary. There should be adequate amount of adjustment there to make them grab enough to lock the rear tires if needed.Then again, if the M cars have acuators instead of an internal type drum e-brake, then all my info listed above was pointless......

I too would like to know what procedures are necessary to bleed the system and decompress the caliper pistons. When my factory rotors are no longer serviceable, I will be upgrading the rotors (slotted/ drilled type) and possibly upgrading the calipers. Let me know what you find out.

J

Cool. Thanks.

Anybody else? Has anyone on here bled their brakes on a Y50 platform?

Read the mositure vs. temperature performance. I like ATE Blue and Castrol Syntec.

Change it at least every two years and your seals, master cylinder and ABS system will remain happy.

After speaking with my service manager at a local Infiniti dealer, I found out that the drain and fill plugs in my rear diff (M45) require a 1/2" drive-like bit. I will be doing the fluid change this weekend and will let you all know if it is indeed the tool that is needed.

On my '03 M, I went to service the rear diff. and found that it required a hex bit socket larger than 8mm and smaller than 10mm (9mm hex bit sockets are not included in most sets). I could never find what was needed and abandoned the project until next spring. Please share with me and the rest of the forum if you figure out what tool is needed.

Andrew

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Andrew224 wrote:On my '03 M, I went to service the rear diff. and found that it required a hex bit socket larger than 8mm and smaller than 10mm (9mm hex bit sockets are not included in most sets). I could never find what was needed and abandoned the project until next spring. Please share with me and the rest of the forum if you figure out what tool is needed.

Andrew

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Just a thought, but are you positive its not a torx type tool for the diif drain or fill plug?Also, kind of a long shot, but have you tried a standard size hex (Allen) tool? I could imagine it not being metric myself. It might just be a 9mm hex you need, but only available as a specialty tool from Snap-on, Matco, or Mac tools. Maybe even try SK or OTC tools. All else fails, you could talk to your local dealers service representative. A mechanic might be willing to share exactly what tool is needed.

Good luck!

J

My garage floor is way too cold here for me to get down there to keep working on this problem.

I can get a 9mm hex bit socket, but it'll run about $30 and might not even be the right tool.

Unless someone else figures it out in the mean time, I'll get back to everyone in the spring with the solution.

Andrew

Andrew224 wrote:My garage floor is way too cold here for me to get down there to keep working on this problem.

I can get a 9mm hex bit socket, but it'll run about $30 and might not even be the right tool.

Unless someone else figures it out in the mean time, I'll get back to everyone in the spring with the solution.

Andrew

Too cold for ya?? Get you a cheap heating blanket and get back under there and CHANGE THAT DIFF FLUID!

J

OK, just did the rear differential fluid and used a 3/8 hex bit that I filed down just a touch to reflect 9mm in size. 3/8" = 9.5mm, so you don't have to take much off at all. Also, try the 3/8 before you do it, it might fit. I did not for me, but was very close to the opening in both plugs.

I used Mobil 1 75W-90 LS fluid and other than the shape of the bottle being too big for the space there, everything went well. Old fluid came out milky/yellow and I hardly had any shavings on the drain plug.

The exchange took about 1hr, since I took my time. I used ramps, but it would be more comfortable to have the car a bit higher up from the ground.

All in all, and easy service that cost me $23 vs. over $90 at the dealership. And I know that it was done right

BTW, my service manager incorrectly suggested the square socket style bit, since it does not fit our diffs. It does fit the QX4, but we need the 9mm hex.

Well thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. I don't have standard size hex bit sockets and the 10mm is way too big, so I'm going to just order a 9mm one.

Yeah, my QX4 plugs have the standard half inch drive that fits right in.

The heated blanket is an excellent idea. I've just used cardboard in the past.

I'm excited now, I won't be able to wait for spring. I have the new washer and Mobil 1 gear oil, same as you used, too that's been just waiting around.

Andrew

Thanks for the info Tytamto! That's good to know. I will be searching for a 9mm hex bit. I to am finding it hard to find. How many miles were on your M before you changed the fluid?You said it came out milky/ yellow? That means it had water contamination.That is usually the outcome of milky looking colored oils.Have you ever driven through high water? Where is the diff vent tube located to?It's good you caught that now and not later. That could have caused premature internal parts damage. BTW, did you flush the diff out a bit before placing the drain plug back in?Not sure if you want to do this but, after you have driven it for a few miles, you might want to check the fluid color again.Sometimes it takes two or three fluid changes to get out the water contaminants. It is possible that the fluid could look milky again.....

J

Yeah, I have flushed it out with the new fluid. The diff only takes 1.4qt and I had two 1qt bottles, so there was plenty of gear oil that could be 'wasted.' I just waited until fresh and clean fluid was coming out. But thanks for suggesting that, nonetheless.

The fluid most likely was never changed before and had just over 31k miles on it. Since I bought the car with 30.5k on it, I am not sure if it had any high water problems. What I do know is that the previous owner lived in my city and took a pretty good care of the car - I have all the records. I doubt that he was beating on the car, burning rubber, or drifting it much - he is a 60 year old investment company co-founder I suspect that condensation is what contributed to the milky looking fluid.

I will be bleeding my brakes tomorrow. Sine the OEM 19" are so large, I might not even have to take them off to bleed the brakes But I will be taking the rears off for sure, since I need to adjust my e-brake.

Yeah, the heated blanket is a good idea, but not sure if it is worth it for the diff fluid change, since you are only under the car for short periods of time.

Sounds good Tytamto! Good to know you flushed it through. The dealer wouldn't do that!

Just so you know and to actually answer this thread properly, the correct fluid type is DOT 3. Here's a link with photo: http://www.thenismoshop.com/ik...=1515

Good luck on the brake flush! Hey, btw, could you tell me how you will be flushing the brake system? What kind of tool will you be using? Also, what flushing procedures are you going to use? Be specific please.I will want to know this when it comes time for mine needing this done as well. I don't think the ole two person pump and relaese method works anymore! Not on the newer vehicles at least.

J