I know it's been covered more than once, but please humor me...
Ok, so if the factory speakers are 2 OHM, Could I still use an aftermarket amp (like most of them) that are 2 ohm stable? What is the max wattage rating of the stock speakers anyway???

Anyone ever try replacing all the door speakers with amped aftermarket but kept the rear deck mini subs powered by the BOSE amp? is it possible?

Do I hear a reply??? Going once..... Going twice....

Wiggler wrote:I know it's been covered more than once, but please humor me...
Ok, so if the factory speakers are 2 OHM, Could I still use an aftermarket amp (like most of them) that are 2 ohm stable?

Your 2 ohm amp wouldn't have a problem powering them - but IIRC, the Bose amps had some built-in "equalization" (i.e., the amp's frequency response was shaped to match the response of those particular speakers). You could probably come pretty close to matching that frequency response with an equalizer of some sort - Probably isn't all that critical anyway.

What is the max wattage rating of the stock speakers anyway???

I doubt that Bose even published a maximum wattage spec for those speakers. By today's standards, it's gotta be pretty lame.

If you're gonna go to the trouble of bypassing the Bose amps, might as well slap in some good aftermarket speakers while you're at it. You'll also avoid the issue of "equalizing" your new amp to match the frequency response of the existing speakers.

Those rear-deck "subwoofers" are REALLY tiny.

I've been toying with ways of mounting a bigger sub somewhere under the deck so it can still use the existing speaker holes.

Been there done that, it doesn't work very well and sounds very strange. If they are the 4" then they are 1ohm which is not safe for pretty much any aftermarket amp. If your going to spend money on an amp you might as well replace the speakers because your going to want to run a new length of speaker cable from the trunk to the doors. Don't use the existing wiring from the head unit because those are meant for line level signal, so the wire is not high enough gauge.

http://www.parts-express.com/replacemen ... mpaign=pla

Just because a speaker is not high wattage doesnt mean it cant produce a high level of output of sound. The 15w alnico speakers in my tube guitar amp are quite loud Its all about efficiency. Most infinity, yes with a y, and JBL are high sensitivity ~93-96db which is why they work well with a head unit without amp. From what I remember those amps+speakers range about 30w for the 94-96 bose amps. I dont know what the later models have, is it a 6.5" in the door? If not it would be better to create a new baffle to fit a 6.5 two way system because its a better size as a mid-woofer.

I just replaced my Bose head unit and used a $35 device that enabled me to continue to use the Bose speakers. With the Pioneer head unit they sound great actually. however, if I was putting in aftermarket speakers I would run good amps, new wires and new speakers and ditch the Bose. I am keeping mine as long as they still work.

Thanks dudes, for all the replies...ski, you always give good explanations.

SanCarlosQ45 wrote: Don't use the existing wiring from the head unit because those are meant for line level signal, so the wire is not high enough gauge.

Ok, yes, you are right about the wires FROM the HU... but I could tap into the output harness wires from the Bose amp TO the speakers to avoid running extra wire...right? Oh, and the front door speakers in the Y33s look like an asymmetrical 5.25" size.... anyone correct me if I'm wrong. Does that mean they are 1 ohm or 2 ohm? Car audio outfitter websites say it takes a 6.75 in the front.... probably only with some sort of adapter or spacer...maybe minor fabrication is needed...

BadQ45t, - Right now, I too am using the amp integration harness for my Clarion Head unit.... it seems to me however, that the Bose amp does not like a 4 volt preamp output... because I have to turn the volume up to almost max on my deck to get decent sound... maybe it attenuates output in this case... with the factory HU it sounds much louder...

Anyone have an electrical schematic of the Bose wiring harnesses?? That would sure be a start in the right direction....

The wires with cylinderical shields over them (like the one shown next to the red arrow above) are carrying "differential" or "balanced" signals - which is kind of unusual.

Basically, the audio signal exists between a pair of wires, rather between a single wire and chassis ground ("unbalanced").

It's a good scheme for reducing random noise and interference, but not very commonly used in car audio for low-level signals.

Feeding an audio signal into just one of the two wires usually doesn't work well, because the amplifier is only looking for a voltage difference the difference between both wires. Feeding just one of the wires doesn't produce much difference in the other one.

Result: Weak or distorted output.

Sorry I didnt do any looking to see what size they are. They are ~6.5" but are still 1ohm. I'm not sure why they liked such a low impedance in the nineties. Its wierd that they use a single amplifier for the front speakers in the trunk and then have individual amps for the rear.

You could use the wire running the front speakers if you wanted, but remember this was meant for the Bose speakers which are 30-50w RMS so it may not work for other after market components that can run into 150+ watt range depending on what amplifier you choose. I ran 16ga from the trunk to the front doors for this reason, but if it is 18ga it might be okay.

SanCarlosQ45 wrote:Sorry I didnt do any looking to see what size they are. They are ~6.5" but are still 1ohm. I'm not sure why they liked such a low impedance in the nineties. Its wierd that they use a single amplifier for the front speakers in the trunk and then have individual amps for the rear.

You could use the wire running the front speakers if you wanted, but remember this was meant for the Bose speakers which are 30-50w RMS so it may not work for other after market components that can run into 150+ watt range depending on what amplifier you choose. I ran 16ga from the trunk to the front doors for this reason, but if it is 18ga it might be okay.

Given all the noise reduction padding that probably went into the body panels, I don't think insane power for 2-way components is necessary... I'm probably going to use one of my class A/B 30w RMS 4 channel amps with better sound quality than a high powered Class-D pile of junk. I used 16 ga. wire straight to the speakers in my Fozzie, because older Subarus have more nooks and crannies to run speaker wire. and because of better proximity to the amp. (mounting under seat). I don't think any under-seat mounting options are in the cards for our cars...
Seems like the plastic mounting bracket for the OEM speaker has to be nixed in an aftermarket install, so speaker basket depth could be an issue with clearance for the window.... My Infinity 6.5 reference components are somewhat of a "Shallow" mount speaker... let's see what happens.

Back to my original question though fellas, Do you guys still think the rear deck speakers can be powered by the bose amp while replacing the front and rear door speakers, and powering them separately?

Ski- do you have a wire-color breakdown of that schematic, by any chance?