Mikes readings:
goody90q45 wrote:Measured across the two power window fuse pins, with the fuse removed.
All accessories off, doors closed.
2.8 milliamps with the key off, 4.5 milliamps with the key on. No voltmeter readings on amperage, only milliamps.
12.4v with the key off, 11.7v with the key on.
Mine:
12.4 with key off, 11.8 with key on
2.40 milliamps with key off 2.17 milliamps with key on.
rioredstang wrote:Hey Paul what fuse is blowing. What # and is it in the interior fuse panel are in under hood power distribution? I am confused. What circuit, ie. power windows or seat? I was looking at some diagrams, but the only fuse on inside doesn't go to windows.
Its the engine bay fuse and its labled "Power window", its 25 AMPs, brown and rectangular/sqaure.
rioredstang wrote:Paul, stop using fuses. Go to the auto parts and buy a circuit breaker the size you need. Get (2) male blade terminals and (2) female insulated terminals (2) pieces of wire about 10" long. Put the insulated terminals on the breaker. Put the other male terminals on the other end of the wires. Now plug the two wires of the circuit breaker in place of the fuse. You can now test the circuit all day without blowing a fuse. Depending on the width of the blades sometimes you may have to file them down till they fit in the fuse terminals. You can make jumper wires that fit the small atc fuses also. They sell circuit breakers in 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, 30A. So you can buy the sizes you need for any circuit.
Can I put the wires in either way? I ask because the circuit breaker says 12 volts on one side and 25 AMPs on the other.
Thanks.