Last year I brought out my Subaru WRX and took 2nd place in AWD at Optima Ultimate Street car Challenge. This year I am returning with a RWD car for the over 3,000 lb class.
I am building my 1995 infiniti q45 for multi-duty. So far she's been to autocross and drift competitions a few times. But I am building it to do some damage and show up on national TV this coming October on MAVTV
Goal is to have full HVAC and interior and keep it sleeperish and streetable and reliable.

I will need financial help, and parts. I am doing this on a small autocross budget and will take all the help and discounts I can get and I can return the favor buy posting here and on my other social media accounts and if you provide a sticker I can post it for the cameras to shoot for boob tube on national tv.

So far I have gotten help from:

Xcessive Manufacturing http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com
they sell manual conversion parts, and suspension/ seat brackets etc... for our g50 chassis. buy from them and support them!

Optima Batteries http://www.optimabatteries.com
Petteys Auto Service petteysrb.com
K&N Filters http://www.knfilters.com
and Ethan Hollander Designs https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ethan-Ho ... 5240734915
"YOUR NAME HERE"
Special Thanks to NICOclub.com for the forum space!

The things I need done and stuff to buy or get:

Install and wire lincoln mk7 electric cooling fan,
purchase and install oil cooler,
Purchase and Install Coil-over system from Xcessive
Purchase racing seat and 5-point harness,
Purchase set of 17 or 18" wheels with 200 treadwear sticky tires,
acquire and fabricate a parking/emergency hand-brake setup, first option is z32,
replace all cooling hoses and heater hoses in engine bay,
fix all leaks,
build custom 3" strait through exhaust with electric cutout, and dual "magnaflow" inline mufflers,
Paint, and custom livery vinyl from Ethan Hollander Designs,
Extended wheel studs and spacers,
need new stock oil pan (mine is cracked and dented)
Power steering cooler,
Brake Ducting,

time permitting:
Aero,
alternate differential options for more traction,
tear out and redo the tint,
convert to e85 ethanol,
supercharger,
replace clutch with new oem unit or better,
accquire spare z32 transmission and q45 diff

Stuff I already did/have:
Xcessive Racing seat braket,
converted to z32 5-speed using elwesso adapter plate,
3" thick crossflow aluminum radiator,
Subframe spacers,
adustable ruca's
Adjustable tension rods,
one-piece drive shaft,
Nissan Skyline r32 aluminum brake upgrade with Hawk HP+ Pads,
Stainless brake hoses,
Custom flowmaster dual 2.5" exhaust with turndowns,
Xcessive Manufacturing upgraded Engine and transmission mounts, NO MORE BROKEN OEM MOUNTS
Xcessive Manufacturing Skid plate, LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!!
Enkei RPF1 Wheels staggered,

I will post pics of my progress here, please if you have any suggestions, race car wisdom, parts/tires/brakes/fluids you want to send for me to use or try, or have ideas for the race vinyl livery please post here. thanks!

Also check out my instagram page @SubtleDriver follow me and ill follow you back.

I will be posting the documented build in detail with pics as time permits. check back soon.

I have an extra oil pan and some other stuff in which you may be interested.

Email me off my profile. Looks like email is not available on profiles anymore.

Try a PM, I guess.

maxnix wrote:I have an extra oil pan and some other stuff in which you may be interested.

Email me off my profile. Looks like email is not available on profiles anymore.

Try a PM, I guess.

Thank you sir! I will send you a pm.
When I slows down a little at work, I will post a writup and pics on the current mods that are completed.

I couldn't figure out a way to pm you. so just email me. its my screen name plus yahoo.com

There aren't too many racing application pads for the stock q45 calipers. So I decided to convert to a set of aluminum calipers from a r32 skyline gt/z32 300zx, the 30mm ones....

Parts list for front:
1996 300zx tt rotors,
1996 300zx tt stainless braided hoses,
skyline/z32 30mm aluminum calipers imported from japan from a wrecked skyline,
spacer/washers to offset caliper to fit rotor properly,
line fitting or custom hardline to attach 300zx hose to my caliper, (was missing)
hawk hp+ track/streetable pads, z32 tt or subaru wrx 2006-2007 limited same application






check they are 30mm


check rotors


they fit ;-p












as you can see, not much difference or major advantage over stock.
my reason, was lighter, and race compounds are available. there is no real good reason to swap over to these brakes if your running street pads, unless you want race pads or for looks. IMHO....


Stock front g50 calipers.


stock hoses.


oem calipers off


calipers need more room,


time to cut backing plate and make room, I also plan to weld on a brake cooling duct to the backing plate later.


need a washer with this thickness to center the caliper on the rotor, 2mm or 2.2mm is good.


install washer between caliper and bracket to move it outboard.


yay it fits!


I had to make brake lines to adapt to my z32 brake hoses.


new adaptors and hoses attached, Planning to reinforce the hard line adapters with a custom bracket.





sweet deal. just install pads, bleed, and check for clearance issues and leaks.


needed some spacers to clear the wheels.

I need to buy some extended wheel studs. What part number is the correct stud from arp? i want longest ones available, and i am going to use some pbm spacers...

I will post the rear next.

Nice build keep em commin!

thanks Bud! I have been really busy, so i have to upload more pics on photobucket and write up the mods im done with, and doing.

I tried to correct my post but can't edit anymore. Does anyone have this problem?

I just discovered my calipers were not 30mm, they were the 26mm units, I made a mistake when ordering. the correct gap is around 35mm. which makes sense. hahaha! What I might end up doing if i cant arrange an exchange with my JDM supplier, is trim the caliper facing a little to clear the rotors better. what is happening is the rotor expands from heat and lightly contacts the caliper.

my mistake. but it does fit and clear just barely with the spacers. I also had no problem using the wrx pads. just ran without the backing plates.

a quick video of the Xcessive Manufacturing seat mount and the radiator/fan/controller installed.

xcessivemanufacturing.com

Xcessive Seat bracket install!

www.excessivemanufacturing.com Sells Q45 parts!


Old Seat





I got the Bracket for no carpet, but decided to leave the carpet so i had to cut some out, no big deal.
But if you want a nice seat installed with the factory carpet, they carry two versions on hand, one for carpet, and one without. As you can see, the carpet and material is quite thick.



I was given a good deal on a really nice Carbon Kevlar Racing Bucket seat and Simpson Harness. I Am very thankful for the good price. It will help me finish this build in time for the race. Thank you James!


Stock Seat weighs in at 76 lbs! holy crap!


Xcessive mount lined up!








I love this setup, im not sliding around on the stock leather seat, and its much lighter and much safer to drive.
I am using the stock seatbelt for now, and I will be making a 5-point harness bar later for racing use.

Thank you Xcessive Manufacturing for The awesome seat bracket, its absolutely beautiful and it saved me hours and hours of time!

Next Project was to address the same problem we all face at some point with most of the nissans/infiniti's of the 80's-90's, with aggressive driving, the power steering system tends to over-heat to the point of boiling over and leaking all over the exhaust and it will eventually kill the pump, the seals, the hoses and make a mess.

Another thing to think about, Power steering fluid or ATF is more volatile (more flammable) than engine oil. Basically if it gets on hot exhaust manifolds or turbos it can and will catch on fire. Another thing, your performance of the p/s system goes down hill.

I can do about 2-3 laps at autocross or 1-2 laps of drifting before the power steering overheats. especially on a 80-100 degree day.

I opted for a double pass heat sink style cooler. It doesnt require constant flow like a tube and fin cooler. it stores the heat and the "coolness" and works very well in low airflow conditions, like drifting or autocross.
here are some pictures of my setup;;;;;

I decided to mount it in the fender liner in front of the passenger tire. so it wouldnt cause more heat soak in the engine bay.







took an extra qt of full synthetic atf over stock and turned the wheel baclk and forth a few times while adding fluid to the reservoir. then turned on the car and added fluid while turning the wheel lock-to-lock to get all the air out. was bled in a minute or so. if you are having trouble bleeding, you have air leaks in the suction hose or the return hose.

more about the rear brakes, custom radiator, and fan and skid plate, and suspension and other goodies later. if you want to see more, or encourage me, or help me out with parts please let me know.

I need a 300zx stock hand brake assy and front cable, and a good shape oil pan. just send me an email. my email is my screen name and yahoo.com after it. thanks.

And I thought it was just my power steering system that had problems! I guess not.

I took my car to Laguna seca last year and after each 20 minute run(8-9laps) the power steering fluid was leaking all over everything. Otherwise the car did pretty well, stock brakes faded pretty bad going into the last corner before the straight but they cooled down enough after. Shouldn't be a problem now. Oh and my car was running the same times as my dads Speed3 which was unexpected.

Next project is a Mark VIII fan with a DCC PWM controller which is about $150.

I guess I'll look into a cooler as well, I'm not sure why they thought a single tube running in front of the radiator was considered adequate cooling. Car looks good otherwise, keep it up!

I have two mkvii fans. I had it installed in my first q45 project. It doesn't fit with this radiator anymore :-( the mk7 fan will need at least a big 50amp fuse and I bought a 75amp relay and $30 controller for it but went different route because of clearance issues. What brake setup are you using? I see g37 rotor in your SIG. Any info on that? Do u have a writeup anywhere on your car? I found my z32 caliper on stock z32 rotor with hawk HP+ pad locked up too easy and messed up the stock proportioning.

Nort getting much needed input here. I moved thread to:
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showt ... hp?t=73322

I will check back here time to time.

Its in progress, I have some brackets that I designed to adapt the R32 calipers to G37 journey rotors. The problem is I don't know if I'll ever get them machined. The other issue is the rotors are 10lbs heavier a piece so it might not be worth it.

Right now I have R32 front rotors and calipers, these are 296x32 same pot size as Z32. I'm running hawk street pads and the brakes feel close to the same until you do multiple stops to heat them up at which point their much better. I haven't run into any problems with locking up yet.

Good luck!

I can post here! Glad to see you on Nico.

Bumping this thread because I just found this rad dude on Instagram. Love the build.