Dom1183 wrote:I suggest you go dealer to dealer and low ball them. Then have them try and beat everyone elses price. This works well if you are in no rush to get the Rogue. I did this and saved almost $4000 off the sticker price.
I think that if you don't get at least $3000 off the sticker price, you are not getting a good deal.
Unfortunately, you need to haggle and some people don't like to do that.
Actually you have a better chance of talking down the price on the vehicles with the higher MSRP when the higher price is due to a lot of added options. (i.e, more bells and whistles) For example: A new 2009 base Rogue with "no" additional option upgrades will list at about $20,200. This dealer invoice on this car would not have 3 to $4000 dollars of water in the price. (In other words there's no way you could talk them down $4K to $16000)
However, the options (e.g. Sunroof, Premium Package, Leather, Navigation, tow package, floor mats, etc... each have their own markups (or water) built into their option price. For instance... the Navigation option MSRP is $540 but the dealers cost is $450. The MSRP on the sunroof is $950 ... dealer cost is $825. Premium Package MSRP is $2230... dealers cost is $1935. (and so on... ) The more options over and above the base model... the more water (additional dealer markup) you have to work with in the price.
That said... (for those of you who don't like the haggling and negotiations) rather than negotiate them down to your price... I find it easier (and less painful) when you know exactly what the dealer paid Nissan (or any manufacturer) for the car. Then, you only have to decide how much profit you are willing to give him on the sale. To be fair... no one goes into business to lose money. The dealers have overhead, employees, utility bills, insurance cost etc. So I expect them to make some money on the sale... but at the same time... I don't want to make them rich! I figure if they make $1000 on every new car they sell they could turn a nice profit if they do enough volume.
NET: I've purchased many new cars this way. It's painless and effective. In fact, I just purchased my 2009 Rogue yesterday. I got the exact 2009 Rogue I wanted with every option I wanted (and more) at an awesome price. I simply added x$ (what I wanted to give them for profit) on to what the dealer paid for the car and made them that offer. They came back with a counter offer... I said no thanks and headed towards the door. They called me back... and took my offer. (It also helps that I arrived at the dealership 20 minutes before closing... They're tired and thinking about going home but can't turn down that one last guaranteed sale. ) Other tricks include arriving on the last day of the month, or better... the last day of the quarter, or even better yet... when the new model year cars hit the lot, or best... the last day or two of the year. I went shopping now while there is still a good selection of 2009 models colors and options.
Okay... so.. how do you find out what the dealer paid... (dealers cost)?
There are several companies on the Internet that claim to sell such information. I'm only familiar with Consumer Reports but I've found their service to be the most straight forward, no hassle, no guesswork. It cost $14 US, fore one report ($12 for each additional report) AND... the report is available in both US or Canadian dollars!!! do.
Edmunds.com offers a "free" service that presents TMV (True Market Value - what others are paying) If you don't want to pay for Consumers Reports or a similar service you should at least use Edmunds to find the TMV so you can get in the ballpark of a good deal.
I actually like to use both together. I like Edmunds because you can get more specific as to the added accessories. (floor mats $110, Chrome Grill Applique $170, Rear Bumper protector $60 etc. ) . Consumer Reports does not factor these into the bottom line price because accessories (after market options) are dealership perks with almost 100% profit in them. I never pay for these type of items. (I'll summarize my latest purchase at the bottom of this thread)
As far as Consumers Pricing report... once you've paid on line... and have access to the site, you enter the year, make, model, trim package, options etc. The report displays immediately (be sure to print a copy.) Every option available is listed. Any "extras" (non-standard options for the model you selected) will have two columns. In one is the MSRP (sticker price) and in the other is the Dealers Invoice Price. Also, if the dealer is getting kickback or any incentives from Nissan... that will also be listed. And if Nissan is offering any customer rebates (like Nissans current Tent Sale), the customer rebate amounts are also listed.
Last... some dealers will attach a small window sticker next to the main Manufacturer sticker where they will list items they added to the car after it arrived at the dealership. (e.g., Rust coating, mud flaps, strain protection/Scotchguard etc) These items are typically "added to" the MSRP for new / adjusted MSRP which will be higher than the original MSRP. Forget these items as well as the adjusted MSRP. Do not include these "additional items" in your calculation. As mentioned above, add on accessories are pretty near 100% markup and allow dealers to further improve their profit margin. Only negotiate up from the Bottom Line Price (what the dealer paid for the vehicle) NOTE: The "only" exception to this rule is if the dealer added a high ticket item like an aftermarket sunroof, in-dash navigation, custom paint job, rear spoiler, etc. For "High Ticket" add-ons ($1000 or more) you'll have to decide if you want them and how much you will be willing to pay over and above what you are willing to negotiate up from the bottom line price.
In regards to the pricing report provided by Consumer Reports.. at the very top of the report is the Dealer Invoice Price... "AND" the "Bottom Line Price". The bottom line price is what the dealer actually paid Nissan for the car after incentives, discounts etc. NET: Just add $1000 bucks (or whatever you comfortable with) to the Bottom Line Price... and be prepared to walk if they try to make a counter offer you can't live with.
Below are the Links US and Canada:UShttps://ec.consumerreports.org...chome
CANADAhttp://crcanadacars.org/defaul...CROAP
Modified by Elton Noway at 3:58 AM 5/9/2009
SUMMARY OF MY ROGUE PURCHASE:SL Trim Level 2.5L 4cyl CVTFront Wheel DrivePremium PackageSunRoof
Edmunds MSRP....Edmunds TMV....Consumers MSRP.....Bottom Line Price ...$25,470..............$23,756..............$25,595...................$23,306
Now... add in the Accessories. All these accessories were on the Rogue I purchased. I wasn't looking for them. My only criteria was White exterior, Black Cloth Interior, and Moonroof. These accessories just happened to be on the only vehicle they had that fit my criteria.Grill Applique $170Splash Guards 125Floor Mats $110Rear Bumper Protector $60
Edmunds MSRP....Edmunds TMV....Consumers MSRP.....Bottom Line Price ..$25,935................$24,155................$25,595..................$23,306
As you can see Consumer assigns no value to the accessories, the MSRP remains unchanged... whereas Edmunds adds them in. I stayed with Consumer Bottom Line Price and offered them $23,636 out the door! (a $330 profit) I used the Nissan rebate to pay for the Title fees, License transfer fees, Highway Taxes etc.
Right now Nissan is running their annual tent sale. Rogues have a $1250 cash rebate to the customer. So I made it out the door... total price... exactly what I offered them, $330 over what the dealer paid. Actually... you can even do better than this at year end when the dealers can write off losses and sell vehicles for less than what they paid. The biggest downside to year end sales is the selection will not be as good.
To really net this out (now that is too late)... ... the dealers cost (Consumers Bottom Line price) is approx 10% less than the MSRP on the big window sticker. So I guess another way you could come up with your price (if you don't want to go through the hassle)... is just take 10% off the big sticker MSRP price and present that as your "out the door" offer. Tell the dealer you want it at that price "out the door"... after all fees and taxes have been applied.
Footnote: Using my same vehicle options but going to AWD with the Leather Package would raise the MSRP to $29510. Once you reach this pricing level getting $3000+ off the MSRP is a much easier task and very doable.
Modified by Elton Noway at 12:07 PM 5/9/2009
Modified by Elton Noway at 9:22 AM 5/9/2009
Modified by Elton Noway at 6:04 PM 5/9/2009