Hi all,

I've got about 285k on my 1994 Q45 (and other than constantly replacing fuel injectors she's doing very well).

However, I've got a balky ignition lock (I believe). About two months ago, she wouldn't start with the OEM master key. Had her towed home and then removed my house keys from the master, and took a spare car to work. Dad tried the car next morning and was able to start her no problem with just the key in the lock.

I surmised that the age of the ignition lock meant it was worn and the weight of the key bundle was causing the failure. I did not test this by adding weight to the key again, just kept driving it.

Now it's getting the same symptoms with just the key. So I suspect it's time to fix it.

I gather from talking to my local dealership that I can either replace the entire ignition lock or just the "electrical switch" in the lock. Hoping this means the lock cylinder - parts guy wasn't clear with me.

Rather than changing all the locks on the car, it would seem that the best course of action for me is to replace the lock cylinder and key it to my original keys (or new keys cut on the original pattern).

A) is my diagnosis likely? (or should I look elsewhere?)
B) is there a better choice?
C) has anyone done this successfully?
D) if I replace the entire ignition lock, can I get it keyed to the original keys for convenience?

Any help or advice very welcome. Looking for a relatively speedy and reliable solution.

best,
Stefan
Seattle, WA
1994 Q45 (285k miles)

I don't know about having a barrel set to your key or just replacing the ignition barrel. I'm sure the dealer option will be fairly expensive, what I would do is find a complete set of locks for the entire car. Give Felton's Auto parts a call and see if they have or can source a complete set of locks with the master key. Its worth a shot and they are fairly close to you.

http://www.feltonautoparts.com/

I've heard good things about them for sourcing specialty items including used aftermarket performance parts so I would think locks with a key wouldn't be too much of an ask.

Starting to have issues with my master key as well. Always kept the least amount of weight possible attached. The OP has the best and most reasonable fix to the is issue. As it will be the most inexpensive but most time consuming way to replace the entire lock system with ignition. I bet you can have it all for $200 or less... Felton auto is in Snohomish WA which you may consider driving there.

Yep.. talked to them. They can give me an entire lock system. That seems a bit crazy though. Why not just re-key a new ignition lock with the old keys? Surely that's a heck of a lot less work than replacing five locks.

What am I missing here that says the extra work is worthwhile?

Stefan

So looking at the parts diagram you can either get the ignition switch which is not the tumbler just the actual switch or the entire assembly.

http://sfinfinitiparts.com/nissanparts/ ... on=Keyword

You need to be specific about if you are going to buy a used assembly or a new one. A new assembly is $400 and the switch is $104 from infiniti of sf but you cant just get the actual barrel. I have a feeling its probably the switch, but you would need to use a meter to check. The entire assembly will be a pain to replace because you have to disassemble the steering column to get to the bolts on the bottom.

I looked at a OEM 300zx ingnition switch and they mentioned to use the original key you would have to take it to a locksmith. You would need to talk to an automotive locksmith to see if its possible. Both of my door locks are messed up at 194k that's why I said I would replace all the locks which really isn't a big deal for me.

Bergman Lock on Capitol hill in Seattle is pretty good at rekeying auto locks or making keys for locks w/o keys.

Stefan, I need some clarification on what exactly happens when you try starting your car....does the key cylinder turn all the way to start or is the key cylinder sticking and not making it to the crank position? If it sticks, you need a new lock cylinder. If the key is making it all the way to crank, right where it used to always start at, but no starter turns, then what you most likely need to replace is the electrical switch portion that's screwed into the left end of the key cylinder. That switch basically brings all the ignition, accessory and starter wires into contact with 12 volts, as you turn the key. Those switches are a weak point, on just about all the Nissan vehicles that I have owned. The solder contacts inside those switches go bad and cause all kinds of trouble, like not allowing current to flow to and crank the starter.
I also just thought about what if the starter relay is going bad, not 'relaying' the ignition crank signal to the starter. Those relays, when going bad, allows intermittent starting until they totally fail. Possible also.