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GTRs13 »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/gtrs13-u129783.html
Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:06 am
Restored to all it's former......uh glory I guess. Have to love google cache.
There is good news!
Now through much research pertaining to this project I have come across several points regarding the AWD RBxxDET(T) into a 240 Swap.
Myths
1."Don't even think about it. How big is your bank account? I hope you are a master fabricator."
Counter point:- This swap is almost Bolt-in! Its unbelievable to me how people can realize the ability of swapping the RB25DET into a 240, yet disregard that the AWD conversion can be done at all, let alone fairly easily with minimal metal skill. Drilling holes and minor MIG welding is all thats required, which pretty much anyone can do. And based on your resourcefulness, the swap does *NOT cost $15,000 on top of your car to perform.
2."You have to graft the skyline front onto the 240, that's really hard."
Counter point:- Now when a car manufacturers, especially Japanese ones, make their line of cars for a particular generation, there is usually a decent deal of variety of types of vehicles. From coupes to sedans to SUV types. However if you notice, since the swapping insurgency of the last decade, many parts from these seemingly different cars actually interchange with each other quite a bit. This isn't more true for Nissan's "Parts Bin engineering style" as put by another member.
The generation skyline directly co-insides with that generation's 240. I.E. GTR32 = S13. GTR33 = S14, and GTR34 = S15. Although they are all pretty much the same. Think about it. When you Mass-produce cars, why bother loosing money independently designing these cars separately, when you can base your models off of "Platforms" and make two or three cars out of one canvas so to speak.
Exhibit A:This is a stock 240SX Crossmember Vs a RWD R33 GTS-S Crossmember.Used for RB25DET swaps, it literally bolts right up.
Exhibit B:Here we have an empty 240sx engine bay, with some gnarly inner fender work I might add!
Notice you have a crossmember, and separate lower tension rod adapters.
Exhibit C:This is a Z32 300zx Front suspension.Notice how its a RWD car with GTR type front multi-link!?:good:
Exhibit D:Now here is the GTR sub frame again. Notice how it integrates the tension rod adapters right into a perimeter frame-type.
The next one is the underneath of the subframe. It shows the four bolt flange style of ball-joints for the LCA or otherwise known as the "Transverse link."
Finally the Full-race R14 and how its has a GTR32 Subframe.
3."Unless you know Japanese, good luck getting the 4WD (ATTESSA) to wire up.
Counterpoint:- To be perfectly honest most of those willing to do this swap, will probably end up buying a GTR32 Front Clip. And that's fine. So am I. The GTR32 Factory 899 page service manual is available free online as well, in engrish.
Go anywhere on the internet, especially in skylines Downunder or GTR UK. Ask them if having a factory R32-spec ATTESSA system is worth a damn at all, and they will tell you no, over and over. They fix the problem with electronic controllers, which sort of "Trick" the G-sensors into giving up much more front wheel torque, kinda like your SAFC "Tricks" the ECU into thinking there is less Air.
The reality of the R32 system is that the processing resolution is that of an Nintendo Entertainment System. Its too-little, too-late and spin-inducing oversteer becomes evident under hard driving.
Hydraulic pressure of 288psi is required to fully engage the transfer case into a 50/50 torque split. Veilside makes a Hydraulic Torque Controller, I belive GRID does as well, so you know they work. Fixed front wheel torque, or none at all. Pretty simple to adapt.
FACTS
1.Pretty much all Nissan parts interchange with each other, making this an OEM oriented swap process, not "custom" as so many people claim. The most important piece of the swap, the subframe, bolts in sans drilling two additional holes.
2.RB20DET or RB26DETT can be used. ECU wiring is pretty much the same excpt the GTR has low-impedance injectors and wiring in the resistor box is involved. No sweat.
RB20 AWD has a 4.375 ratio front and rear, and RB26 has 4.111. So make sure you match front and rear diffs or your trans will explode!
3.Although the subframe bolts up to a 240 relatively easy, the GTR's unique multi-link suspension does not. You are going to have to get creative on this. Either (This is where the MIG comes in) Weld in the GTR strut towers like this:
OR
-Make an upper-link-to-McPearson Adapter like these guys:
Ow. My brain hurts...:nosleep: