Hi There:

One of the idler bearings on my 98 Q45 is starting to go (power steering) so I am thinking the A/C pulley is most likely on the way out too. I replaced the water pump and alternator bearings not too long ago and they are way up high on the engine so not as succeptable to moisture and water like the two lower pulleys. I remember there was someone one the site who had a good source for a set of these bearings. I only need two, but would be willing to buy a complete set of 6 to have some extra if the price is right for each or a complete set. Just one locally runs $32.00 plus tax. I remember buying a single bearing for $15 only a couple of years back.

If anyone knows the source or has a buy who knows a guy who sells these near Chicago, let me know.

Thanks!!

Ted V.

tfvesquire wrote: I remember there was someone one the site who had a good source for a set of these bearings.

That would be Keith (Texasoil) at B&B Suspension.

When I was looking for these bearings Keith said he no longer supplies them. I just replaced all the pulleys themselves. Total cost was around $200. Yeah it was a bit more expensive than to buy the bearings but no hassle pressing them in. The money spent is worth the peace of mind

Well, I think $200 is too much to spend on bearings and pulleys that are not difficult to change, IMHO. Not like you need to have a 2 ton press for example to press in a wheel bearing.

I have found several sellers on Ebay selling these bearings for under $10 so I am just going with a US seller with the best feedback rating and hope for the best. I will post whatever I find for others to use in the future.

Thanks,

Ted V.

Pressing them in is no big deal, takes like 10 mins.

I would get them from McMaster...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#additional-bearings/=pv420b

There is a McMaster warehouse in Aurora, I don't know if they'd let you do local pickup but worst case you'd have it next day for sure.

The 6303ZZ bearing looks to be a shielded bearing, not a sealed bearing. I think you'd want a sealed bearing like the one that I show in the link.

tfvesquire wrote:I have found several sellers on Ebay selling these bearings for under $10 so I am just going with a US seller with the best feedback rating and hope for the best.

There are different grades of bearings, some of which last a LOT longer than others.

Generally, you get what you pay for.

Skibane wrote:

tfvesquire wrote:I have found several sellers on Ebay selling these bearings for under $10 so I am just going with a US seller with the best feedback rating and hope for the best.

There are different grades of bearings, some of which last a LOT longer than others.

Generally, you get what you pay for.

Definitely true. I'd be looking at ones that are made by NSK, FAG, or SKF... Any of the knock-off Chinese crap you know you're going to be back in there replacing them soon.

Good point. Also wanted to make sure the housing is stainless and not a cheaper metal that will corrode. Anyone know what brand bearings this McMaster-Carr company sells? I will be contacting them as well.

Ted

The factory ones aren't stainless steel, and there's not a lot of corrosion potential in that area, so I wouldn't worry about getting stainless steel ones. The factory bearings aren't stainless.

I replaced one of the belt tensioner pulley bearings several years ago. I removed the tensioner pulley and headed over to my local old school parts house (you know, the kind with paper catalogs and a machine shop in the back). Anyway, my counter guy pressed out the old noisy bearing, measured it with a micrometer and then searched in his catalog for one with the same dimensions. Found it, pressed it back in the pulley and charged me a nominal amount (less than $20 parts and labor IIRC) and I was on my way. I re-installed the pulley and haven't heard a peep from it since.

** Update **

I ordered a pair of idler bearings from McMasters right near me in Elmhurst, IL. The price was $11.44 each and they were manufactured by FAG. I got them shipped to me since I work in Chicago during the day and could not get there in time for pick up. I figured I would purchase a couple and check out their overall quality before posting any results. However, when I went to install the power steering idler pulley today, I got the pulley out of the car and compared it to the new one and SOB it is the wrong size!! I had an old box from one of the bearings I replaced quite some time ago and it read 303 on it so I cross referenced that number at was told it should be 6303zz. Turns out, the bearing I pulled today is a 6301zz, not a 6303. Surprising that no one noticed I was posting the wrong bearing number in my thread. So, now, I have to return the ones I bought and get the correct ones. Total wasted effort to remove the pulley only to find out I had to try and repack the old bearing to get a few more days use out of it until I can get the replacement bearings.

I will say, the FAG brand appear to be a decent set of bearings so I think I will just buy a set of 6 and have some extras on hand should I need to replace the water pump and alternator bearings at some point in the future. They run a 1/3 of the price of the cheapest bearings I could get locally so it's worth it to me.

Once I get them in I will update my thread.

Ted V.

As what I was afraid was going to happen with me. I just took the hit and replaced ALL pulleys at the same time. Relatively cheap considering some costs in maintaining a Q. Once one goes the rest will follow. Worth the peace of mind and ease of the process. Will not have to worry about a pulley bearing on this car again.

Agree with the above.....one of my originals just started to be audible at around 203K- replaced all of them,and the belts too while in there as 1 job.

tfvesquire wrote:** Update **

I ordered a pair of idler bearings from McMasters right near me in Elmhurst, IL. The price was $11.44 each and they were manufactured by FAG. I got them shipped to me since I work in Chicago during the day and could not get there in time for pick up. I figured I would purchase a couple and check out their overall quality before posting any results. However, when I went to install the power steering idler pulley today, I got the pulley out of the car and compared it to the new one and SOB it is the wrong size!! I had an old box from one of the bearings I replaced quite some time ago and it read 303 on it so I cross referenced that number at was told it should be 6303zz. Turns out, the bearing I pulled today is a 6301zz, not a 6303. Surprising that no one noticed I was posting the wrong bearing number in my thread. So, now, I have to return the ones I bought and get the correct ones. Total wasted effort to remove the pulley only to find out I had to try and repack the old bearing to get a few more days use out of it until I can get the replacement bearings.

I will say, the FAG brand appear to be a decent set of bearings so I think I will just buy a set of 6 and have some extras on hand should I need to replace the water pump and alternator bearings at some point in the future. They run a 1/3 of the price of the cheapest bearings I could get locally so it's worth it to me.

Once I get them in I will update my thread.

Ted V.

FAG is a good brand, I design machinery that uses bearings, and we use FAG bearings almost exclusively, only when FAG cannot meet our delivery requirements do we use SKF.

Sorry about getting the wrong bearings, but once it's all done you'll be glad you have the right ones!

elwesso wrote:
FAG is a good brand, I design machinery that uses bearings, and we use FAG bearings almost exclusively, only when FAG cannot meet our delivery requirements do we use SKF.

Good to know.. It turns out that Fischer A.G. actually invented the machine to allow steel balls to be ground to an absolutely round state. Soon afterward Fischer ushered in the roller bearing industry.

elwesso wrote: FAG is a good brand, I design machinery that uses bearings, and we use FAG bearings almost exclusively

(Insert your favorite "Team America - World Police" quote here... )

Skibane wrote:

elwesso wrote: FAG is a good brand, I design machinery that uses bearings, and we use FAG bearings almost exclusively

(Insert your favorite "Team America - World Police" quote here... )

There are some scenes in that movie that puppets should never have been involved in....

Hello my name is Jorge I saw your page that showed how to fix your fan control amplifier and was wondering if mine had gone bad. I have a 99 maxima and the blower wont turn on when I turn the switch to any speed. I removed the glove box and checked the motor and it worked on full speed when I connected jumper wire to ground it. There's good ground up to the amplifier. There's 9.4 volts the comes from signal wire when I turn the fan switch on. But it's the same 9.4 volts no matter what speed I put it on. Isn't it through the signal wires voltage that changes the speed of the fan? I figured the fan control amp had gone bad since there was good ground and power up to that point. On your tutorial page it said there should be continuity between the top 2 contacts that you circled that are connected to the thermal cutout. I checked for continuity and there was none. I'd like to go ahead and try to fix since you made it look pretty easy. I don't really know the parts I would need as far as the thermal cutout and the mosfet power transistor. It said you had a couple from a bundle you bought but it might be for an infinity I don't know if they cross over. Would you mind telling me which thermal cutout and Mosfet I should buy to be able to replace mine? It's for a 99 maxima but manufactured in 98. It would be a great help. Thanks in advance!

Welcome to NICO Jorge. Please start a new thread with your concern about the fan amplifier. Thanks!

** UPDATE **

I returned the wrong bearings on Monday and purchased the correct 6301ZZ bearings, but have not had the chance (or a break in our lovely weather) to replace the one that is bad. The cost per bearing is only $9.45 each so I went ahead and purchased a complete set of 6 to have extras on hand when the other five start to go. They are the same quality FAG double sealed bearings as the 6303 I originally bought from McMasters-Carr and appear to be comparable to the OEM bearings I removed several years ago. I guess the proof will be once I install them and put some miles on the replacement bearing.

It is currently minus 5 here in Chicago, but it is supposed to warm up to 29 degrees tomorrow and then a severe deep freeze on Monday with projected temps near minus 15. Ouch!! I definitely need to get that bearing replaced tomorrow or I maybe walking next week if the bearing seizes up.

Happy New Year to all.

Ted V.

tfvesquire wrote:** UPDATE **

I returned the wrong bearings on Monday and purchased the correct 6301ZZ bearings

IIRC, the complete set I bought from TexasOil several years ago consisted of two different bearing sizes. Are you saying that the 6301ZZ fits all 4 idler pulleys?

(Stay warm! )

IIRC, the complete set I bought from TexasOil several years ago consisted of two different bearing sizes. Are you saying that the 6301ZZ fits all 4 idler pulleys?

(Stay warm! )[/quote]

Yes, there are a total of six bearings on the 97-01 Qs that go into four idler pulleys: power steering has one, a/c has one and each of the water pump and alternator pulleys has two bearings sandwiched against each other inside the pulley. If someone sold you two different size bearings to do the job, maybe they cross-referenced a double wide 6301 style bearing that would take the place of two regular size 6301zz bearings. That would eliminate having to drive home two bearings in the water pump and alternator pulleys. IIRCC, it wasn't too difficult to press those bearings out and in.

I installed the power steering bearing in and then went to get two rear tires installed so the a/c bearing (not making any noise at all right now) will have to wait until a warmer day. I will give a thumbs up to McMasters-Carr for the excellent bearing quality, price and overall customer service. At $9.45 a bearing you can't beat the price anywhere as far as I'm concerned. The also ship for a reasonable price using UPS so order away and tell them I sent you. Maybe we could get enough people ordering these that we could get a NICOclub group discount.

Thanks,

Ted V.

tfvesquire wrote: I installed the power steering bearing in and then went to get two rear tires installed so the a/c bearing (not making any noise at all right now) will have to wait until a warmer day. I will give a thumbs up to McMasters-Carr for the excellent bearing quality, price and overall customer service. At $9.45 a bearing you can't beat the price anywhere as far as I'm concerned. The also ship for a reasonable price using UPS so order away and tell them I sent you. Maybe we could get enough people ordering these that we could get a NICOclub group discount.

Thanks,

Ted V.

McMaster will almost never get group discounts. I would actually have a better chance at getting a discount direct through FAG through my work, if people were interested. Maybe I'll start offering a service to press bearings in and out..

quote]

McMaster will almost never get group discounts. I would actually have a better chance at getting a discount direct through FAG through my work, if people were interested. Maybe I'll start offering a service to press bearings in and out.. [/quote]


With a price per bearing at under $9.50 that is still quite a savings over the quote of $33.00 each from the local parts suppliers. so far so good on the replacement bearings evern with our recent temps averaging minus 30 degrees here in Illinois. As far as pressing in bearings, I don't think there would be much of a market for members needing these bearings pressed in by a third party. If they can maintain these cars on a regular basis I'm sure they can figure out how to carefully press in an idler pulley bearing.

Ted V.

I am glad you found a good route to this fix. Keep in mind. If you have to do this more than once or twice in 300k of ownership you F'd up somewhere. Replacing belts this week (maybe for the last time). Makes it 100 times easier rust free with new pulleys and tensioners.

On a side note, you say you are in Illinois. I will take the arctic air over mounds of snow any day. Just got hit with 10 inches of snow my way. Calling for another 10.

Well, from what I recall, when I replaced all the idler pull bearings I had no issues with pressing them in and had thousands of trouble free miles until 2 summers ago when I got caught in the worst rainstorm and flooded streets I have ever driven thru. I posted details of this but the water level got as high as my door handles at one point, seriously, and I had to feather the throttle thru that part to keep from sacking water into the air intake at the top of the radiator support. The car next to me tried to go fast and took on water and hydrolyzed his engine. As a result, my idler bearings got waterlogged and failed prematurely. The alternator pulley bearing seized on me a few months later while I was on the expressway. The power steering pulley started to make noises last fall. You are correct though that if you install them properly they should last a long time.

Ted

Yeah, my water pump bearings just seized up on me the other day and ate my belt.

When I swapped motors last year, I bought a set of these from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BB ... UTF8&psc=1

Chinese crap.

2.5 years later my water pump idler seized.

So had to replace the entire pulley with OEM, can find it online for $60 shipped, why spend $20 on bearings, and maybe $20 to press them in, when the whole unit can be replaced for $20 more?

I'm not sure if they failed because of high belt tension, crappy Chinese parts, or just debris, but I can tell you, the OEM one is NICE...came with the bolts also, definitely the best option.

Why I cheaped on chinese crap is beyond me. Now if I can figure out the tapping sound from the motor I might be able to get this baby to 300k. 245k on original tranny still consistent as could be. *knocks on anniversary maple*

paranoidjack wrote:Yeah, my water pump bearings just seized up on me the other day and ate my belt.

When I swapped motors last year, I bought a set of these from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BB ... UTF8&psc=1

Chinese crap.

2.5 years later my water pump idler seized.

So had to replace the entire pulley with OEM, can find it online for $60 shipped, why spend $20 on bearings, and maybe $20 to press them in, when the whole unit can be replaced for $20 more?

I'm not sure if they failed because of high belt tension, crappy Chinese parts, or just debris, but I can tell you, the OEM one is NICE...came with the bolts also, definitely the best option.

Why I cheaped on chinese crap is beyond me. Now if I can figure out the tapping sound from the motor I might be able to get this baby to 300k. 245k on original tranny still consistent as could be. *knocks on anniversary maple*

Because each one will cost you $60+, versus a COMPLETE SET of bearings costing $40, and I have a press so I can easily press bearings in and out in a snap. So, $180 versus $50 we'll say for the exact same thing (if you get good bearings), seems like a no brainer to me. Agreed, it may not be the best solution for everyone, but if you have access to a press then it's a no brainer.

Also, that's a shielded bearing, not a sealed bearing. The OEM bearings are sealed, so that's probably part of the problem.

Yeah, the shielded vs sealed was definitely a problem.

I like the shiny new parts. Mmmmmm shiny.

Also Wes, that math doesn't seem quite right -

The bearings (for nice sealed ones) will be $12-$15 each, at least the best I've found, and needing 6 of them that's $90-$100. If you don't have a press, you'll be paying another $30-$50 to press them in, and who knows if the guy did it without compromising the bearings? I have nightmares because I tried to replace the bearings in my washing machine instead of the entire spindle ($45 instead of $350) and it lasted 3 months.

So if you add that all up, it's not SO Bad to just get the bearings at ~$240 with all new tensioning hardware, versus $150 for just the bearings pressed in?

If you have the right bearings at the right price and a press it makes sense to go that route, but if you don't have that stuff and it's your only driving (or non-driving) vehicle, pulleys might be your best option.