Hey I need some help. I checked the ecu says 55. My gauges are dead all of them. My other instrument lights work. Signals etc. Also power steering went out. What's the problem ecu doesn't say there is a speed sensor problem. No I didn't cut any wires. Please help I'm sure its something simple. I don't want to change the cluster if its a sensor a relay or a fuse. Thanks.

no tach, no spedo, no oil, no temp, no odemeter, no power steerinng.

I do have illumination. the car starts and drives, radio comes on, everything appears to work except the gauges in general and im guessing because they don't work since the power steering is speed assisted that the power steering doesn't work because its not getting speed signal from the guages or what not.

so nobody can steer me in the right direction i guess. another thing when I turn the key there is no battery light on the dash only light in that area that is working is the security light.

Um, yeah. That's an odd one for sure. So no indicators other than the flashing security light? Might be an ignition cylinder wiring problem. Other than that, I'm not sure. You're correct that the system is power assist, but I'm not sure if it's mechanically actuated or uses electric valves, though I think it is mechanical.

ok thanks ace I just pulled the cluster out. I have the wireing diagram from the service manual. Im going to test if its getting power with a multi meter and go from there.

i did this and I had no voltage I would think if it was the ignition relay the car wouldnt start no? seems weird.

Ignition relay & fusible link would definitely keep the car from starting, so it's probably not those. Unless the ignition relay is failed in a really weird way I've never seen before. Still not likely.

I'd check the continuity first, then check the ignition cylinder, just cause the ignition cylinder is such a pain to get to.

OK all the stuff in the red box isn't working got me stumped anyone have any ideas.



seems like im not getting power on wire # 29. That looks like the power wire that everything in the red box is uses to turn on. I'm going to check pin 24 as well it looks like its directly tied to the airbag light.

ok i un unpluged the connector from the back of the cluster..Im getting a signal power on pin 24. Im not sure but I think the manual got pins 29 and 24 mixed up with the connectors. My connector style should be pin 29 but the power is coming from 24 which is the other connector style.

Ignition cylinder. Almost positive on that. If the air bag light works, but none of the others do, it'll be your ignition switch. See where the air bag "T's" off of wire #29 before the switch? That's the ignition switch. Check page EL45. The ignition gives power to everything you're not getting power to. The illumination is controlled by the timer control unit, so you would still get lights.

Check continuity between the ignition cylinder and the cluster. If continuity is good between the cylinder and wire #29, then the cylinder is bad.

BlackWidowZ wrote:ok i un unpluged the connector from the back of the cluster..Im getting a signal power on pin 24. Im not sure but I think the manual got pins 29 and 24 mixed up with the connectors. My connector style should be pin 29 but the power is coming from 24 which is the other connector style.

Yep, this just confirms my thoughts. Air bag light gets power straight from the battery.

Oh man, I feel stupid for just asking this now, but you did check the 15A fuse for ignition in the fuse block right?

you mean the ignition coil. I think its a relay in the fuse block. Its one of the big square ones. Its green on mine.

There is ign coil relay here



there was two 10a fuse in the driver side kick panel one for ign meter and another ign airbag both of those fuses are fine

Nope, fuse. There's a 10A (sorry, I said 15A before) between the ignition relay and the cylinder. Probably in the kick panel fuse block.

But now that I think of it, that would also keep the car from starting.

Ah. Gotcha. Damn ninjas, editing before I type my response, lmao.

I could test the fuse connections with a multi meter to see if there is power getting to the fuses the diagram says go through. I cant understand if power is supposed to be on 24 or 29 mine is tested on 24. pin 24 has power 29 is dead. Mine is the model with the air bag style connector. So thats either a typo in the manual or that is where my problem lies.

I can try testing voltage a the fuses. But all the fuse I looked at were good.

Could the IGN relay be bad. IGN coil to where it allows the car to start but doesn't switch power. I know how relays work kinda. If a relay gets a signal it makes a connection.



My guess right now though since pin 24 is getting power. 24 probably feeds 29 but its from the circuit inside the the cluster only feed 29 when the connector is pluged into the meter board. When its unplugged the power is from 24 thats a guess.. It wouldnt make since to me if I unplug the connector from the back of the meter and I get power on both 24 and 29... If this is the case than Im getting power and my whole cluster is bad. I really want to be certain of this before I try swapping clusters.

ok i used a tone generator to trace 29 to the fuse block it is a 10A fuse labeled meter. That tones out. So I guess I should be getting power to that wire. I looked at the fuse it looks fine. I'm going to try changing it anyways i dont see what thats going to accomplish. From there I dont know how else to check the continuity. Not sure how the kick panel fuse block connects to the other fuse block.

Looking at this diagram it looks like the ignition switch supplys power to the fuse 10A that then goes to the meter. So If im right It should be getting power from a wire on the steering colum

I might have a bad multimeter but it appears im not getting power from the ignition switch.

That's what I was thinking but I didn't wanna jump straight to that conclusion. Are you testing it at the cylinder or at the cluster? Cause it could still be a wire instead of the cylinder if you're just testing at the cluster connector.

IDK if this is right but I unpluged the connector in question from the back of the cluster. the one that has 24 and 29 on it. I touched the pin on the connector to the positive lead of my multi meter with it unplugged from the back of the cluster. and the negative lead to a ground. I have my meter on DC the V 20 setting. I think this is the right setting. I could be wrong. Turned the ignition to "on" no voltage there on 29. Then I did the same thing to 24 I did have voltage.

I then tried to do continuity between 29 and the fuse I hooked up a tone generator to the 29 on the connecter. Probed the 10a fuse in the kick panel labled for meter and I heard chirping on both sides of the fuse.. I then touched the probe to the ignition you know where the key goes in and it was chirping. So I know I have continuity between the ignition and the connector 29 pin on it that plugs into the cluster.

If you have any suggestions let me know cuz I have no idea what I'm doing, I just know enough to be dangerous. I generally can fix a lot of things if I know whats wrong but this is got me stumped.

The car starts and can be driven. But this is going on so its really wierd that everything else appears to work yet this doesn't. You asked me if the airbag light was working I'm not really sure about that. But if the airbag is on 24 and that one has voltage than i guess thats not whats going on.

Don't know why you're using a tone generator. Just reading continuity should be fine.

You're using the meter correctly. So let me get this straight, you read pin 29, and got no voltage when the key was on.

Read pin 24, and got no voltage, then voltage with the key on. That's right.

What you need to do is read resistance from pin 29 to the green wire on the ignition cylinder. If you have continuity, it's a bad switch and the cylinder will need to be replaced.

24 yes I have voltage 29 no i dont. but 29 has continuity. ok ill test resistance to the green wire on the ignition specifically to 29. If it tests ok like I think it will than I guess i have a bad ignition cylinder somhow..

do you know if its possible to take the key part out of mine and put it in another cylinder so I can use my same key?

I'm pretty sure a locksmith can reset a tumbler.

Hey theres really 2 green wires that plug into a white connector under the dash. These little green wires are hard wired to the switch. I have continuity between these and the 29 pin on the connector.


Question how much voltage should these put out wondering since I don't get any. Im kinda wondering what else I should check before changing the switch.

Is there somthing that would make the switch not work right and then because of that the switch doesnt work which then would make the cluster not work.

can anyone unplug theres from under the dash and test it to see what it gets.

I wonder if the ignition relay could be failed in a way that the car starts but doesnt give the ignition power. I think I wanna try changing this 1st, before swaping the switch what do you think ace? It will be alot easyer and cheaper to replace.

I mean, you can try it, but the schematic doesn't show the relay anywhere between the gauges and the switch.

i tried changing the starter relay and the ignition switch no change all gauges still broken.

Damn dude, I'm not sure where else to check.

Have you checked the "meter" fuse? Should be in the kick panel. Might be loose. That's all I got left...

ya i checked it its good its boiling down to a new meter. I have to get one to test 1st though.

Just an update I fixed this problem. I had bent contact pins in the fuse box in the kick panel under the steering wheel. I ended up pulling out the fuse box and using a needle to pry the fuse contacts inward so the fuses would make good contact. It was the meter fuse contacts.

Awesome! So it was that damn meter fuse. I had a sneaking suspicion

Glad you got this figured out man.