AFTER engine swap issues

[Anthony.G.]

Hi guys, im new to the 300zx and the forum, I am used to working on Toyota's, so this is a new experience for me.
I recently acquired a 91 300zx N/A, the previous owner blew the engine and got a second but never put it in.
He told me the engine was out of a 91... it was not after dropping the engine in i realized it was a 94 engine.
everything is connected now but its not starting, and I'm trying to figure out why. I checked the ECU and it gave me
11 and 13, how am I supposed to check the timing if i cant start the engine? I have looked all over the internet...
anyone have any ideas on whats causing it to not start?

Thanks!

[Ace2cool]

11 is the CAS circuit. Meaning you either have a problem with the CAS itself or the wiring harness. Doesn't have anything to do with the setting of the timing.

13 is the Coolant temp sensor. Can also cause the car not to start by giving the ECU a reading that the engine is overheated.

Replace the CTS, and figure out the problem with the CAS.

[Anthony.G.]

11 is the CAS circuit. Meaning you either have a problem with the CAS itself or the wiring harness. Doesn't have anything to do with the setting of the timing.

13 is the Coolant temp sensor. Can also cause the car not to start by giving the ECU a reading that the engine is overheated.

Replace the CTS, and figure out the problem with the CAS.

I replaced the CAS and checked the harness, so thats good.
now it sounds like it wants to start but its making a binding/grabbing kind of sound...
For the Temp. sensor could i just clear the codes in the ECU considering I replaced the engine?

[nissanfreak12]

What part of Colorado?

[Anthony.G.]

Colorado Springs

[nissanfreak12]

For the Temp. sensor could i just clear the codes in the ECU considering I replaced the engine?

No, even though you replaced the engine its giving you the code from the current state its in, new engine. CTS are not too expensive, 25 OEM and 14 at Vatozone. You will need a good one for it to run good and pass emissions. Look inside the connector, and the plug to whatever you took the plug from, make sure there is no green crud causing a bad connection. This will cause a ton of issues if the corrosion is bad enough.

[nissanfreak12]

Colorado Springs

Just a touch too far, maybe if I feel like a road trip, I'm up in Centennial. Check out TT.net, quite a few guys from CO there.

[Anthony.G.]

For the Temp. sensor could i just clear the codes in the ECU considering I replaced the engine?

No, even though you replaced the engine its giving you the code from the current state its in, new engine. CTS are not too expensive, 25 OEM and 14 at Vatozone. You will need a good one for it to run good and pass emissions. Look inside the connector, and the plug to whatever you took the plug from, make sure there is no green crud causing a bad connection. This will cause a ton of issues if the corrosion is bad enough.

The Temp. Sensor is clean, so ill go and pick up a new one.

[Anthony.G.]

got a new one and it is still not starting and still giving me the error codes plus now 21 ignition circuit...

[Ace2cool]

Sounds like the PTU is bad. Is it the old style silver one or the newer black one?

Also, are you 100% sure the EFI harness wasn't damaged in the swap?

[t.mcginley.jr]

Also verify that you didn't blow any fuses while doing the swap. When you turn the key to on do you hear a small electric whine from the back (fuel pump priming)?

[Anthony.G.]

CAS, CTS, all Fuses are good or have been replaced, I have not checked the PTU yet though,
the ECU is still showing the codes though...

This is the sound that its making...
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBjUPd9uWFQ[/youtube]

[Ace2cool]

Video is private. Can't see.

[Anthony.G.]

Video is private. Can't see.

fixed it.

[Ace2cool]

That doesn't seem to be an electrical problem. That sounded very mechanical. Like something is seizing. The starter not being able to rotate it afterward furthers that thought. Can you rotate it by hand? If not, remove the plugs and see if it'll rotate. That'll rule out compression lock and hydrolock.

Everything in the drivetrain is aligned as well, correct? You used a clutch alignment tool?

[Anthony.G.]

starter is good, what do you mean by rotate it? the fly wheel?

[Ziggy1621]

Did you check to see what shape the timing belt was in? That's a very metallic 'clack' sound

[nissanfreak12]

starter is good, what do you mean by rotate it? the fly wheel?

Taking a socket and rotating it at the crank pulley.

[Anthony.G.]

So, I checked the timing belt its good, went a head and and reset everything...
BUT I figured out my issue... the 1st Cyl. is hydro-locked, it is full of gas!
i think the injector has gone bad I'll try and clear it out and see what happens.

[Anthony.G.]

Ok so I've done some work since I last posted. here's the update:
1: Puled the plenum, Cleared the cyl. and got a new injector. that stopped the hard clicking sound. (still wouldn't do anything though)
2: Replaced the PTU (because there was no spark)
3: Traced all the electrical, and checked all the earths (added a couple grounds for good measure)

After all that it finally starts!... but it wont idle. it will turn over if I give it gas but as soon as I let off, it dies.
From everything I've found its either the MAF, TPS, or a vacuum leak. I'm going to check those tomorrow.

My question now is what do i do if none of the cluster gauges work? and yes i've checked the fuses.

[Anthony.G.]

Ok so I've done some work since I last posted. here's the update:
1: Puled the plenum, Cleared the cyl. and got a new injector. that stopped the hard clicking sound. (still wouldn't do anything though)
2: Replaced the PTU (because there was no spark)
3: Traced all the electrical, and checked all the earths (added a couple grounds for good measure)

After all that it finally starts!... but it wont idle. it will turn over if I give it gas but as soon as I let off, it dies.
From everything I've found its either the MAF, TPS, or a vacuum leak. I'm going to check those tomorrow.

My question now is what do i do if none of the cluster gauges work? and yes i've checked the fuses.

So it's not starting again... error code 21 I am lost on this car...

[nissanfreak12]

When you said replaced PTU, with new or used? Have you checked the connectors? Are they free of corrosion? Are you sure all grounds are connected on the plenum, passenger side? If some are not grounded could fry your PTU.

If none of the gauge clusters work, you said fuse, are you sure everything is connected? Both fuse boxes? One is in the engine comp and one under the driver side kick panel.

Keep us updated.

[t.mcginley.jr]

When you said replaced PTU, with new or used? Have you checked the connectors? Are they free of corrosion? Are you sure all grounds are connected on the plenum, passenger side? If some are not grounded could fry your PTU.

If none of the gauge clusters work, you said fuse, are you sure everything is connected? Both fuse boxes? One is in the engine comp and one under the driver side kick panel.

Keep us updated.

nissanfreak where have you been? lol haven't seen you post in a while

[nissanfreak12]

I have been working A BUNCH!! I got a promotion at work, more money, more hours, more headaches. Honestly not sure if it was a promotion. That with moving up to Colorado from Phoenix, working on the house. Not so much time on the comp. anymore.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Ahhh I see, more money = more problems haha good luck with everything buddy

[Anthony.G.]

I'll recheck everything ASAP, nissanfreak what part of colorado?

[nissanfreak12]

I live Aurora/Centennial, like ten miles from Parker.

[Anthony.G.]

awesome, I'm down here in the springs.

[Ace2cool]

Any update on this?

[Anthony.G.]

Sorry, my job keeps me pretty busy. I checked the grounds everything is good, there was a little corrosion in the connector for the PTU, i cleaned it but I'm still not getting spark. I'm wondering if the wiring harness isn't just shot...