Since I'm thinking I'll probably get a quicker response here I'll go ahead and post again.

Alright well since my 2 12" alpine type R's from my old Grand Prix won't fit in this overly spacious trunk of the A/C I have to go shopping.

I have a Hifonics Brutus BXi1606D @ 2 ohms pushing about 1100Wx1 channel. Seeing as how a 10" sub would be the best fit I need some good recommendations.

Just because of space I was thinking about getting just 1 10" and going to town on it. I'm more interested in SQ but at 1100W I have a feeling it's going to be leaning more towards SPL.

The first thought was the Alpine Type X 10" which can take 1000W easily with a max of 3000, but I'm not sure if that's going to be awful SQ wise.

Next question is I have the bose setup right now. I want to keep the stock HU (like it's look and don't want to lose the bluetooth) so I'm assuming I'd just run a LLC from the wires going to the stock subs in the back deck?

And if I add the sub, it would probably be better to just disable the rear deck subs all together since they obviously can't compete with a trunk sub right?

Thanks!

DarkKnight22 wrote:Alright well since my 2 12" alpine type R's from my old Grand Prix won't fit in this overly spacious trunk of the A/C I have to go shopping.

LOL

It's amazing how small the Trunk space is and it doesn't help that the Bose/Set Up gets in the way.

I have no answer, I'm thinking about this type of set up too.

yeah so i'm up in arms about what to do here. The Bose "bass" just doesn't cut it.

I was in the same situation as you Knight, I had 2 12" Infinity Kappa Perfect series subs with 1100W and they wouldn't come close to fitting. I ended up having a custom box made for a 10 that fits perfectly under 1 side of the rear self. The majority of my trunk is still completely usable.



In case you're wondering, its a JBL W3. It took a little getting used to going from two 12's to 1 10 but overall I'm very happy with it. Get a quality 10 and your ears should be happy...along with your trunk.

yea thats what i want to do...i dont think i want to sacrifice the whole trunk to put 2 12s...i just want to put a nice 1 10 so i cant still use the trunk

hey doc, can u recommend any 10 inch sub and amp set up? i cant decide what...im thinking about going with JL tho lol

DarkKnight22 wrote:Since I'm thinking I'll probably get a quicker response here I'll go ahead and post again.

Alright well since my 2 12" alpine type R's from my old Grand Prix won't fit in this overly spacious trunk of the A/C I have to go shopping.

I have a Hifonics Brutus BXi1606D @ 2 ohms pushing about 1100Wx1 channel. Seeing as how a 10" sub would be the best fit I need some good recommendations.

Just because of space I was thinking about getting just 1 10" and going to town on it. I'm more interested in SQ but at 1100W I have a feeling it's going to be leaning more towards SPL.

The first thought was the Alpine Type X 10" which can take 1000W easily with a max of 3000, but I'm not sure if that's going to be awful SQ wise.

Next question is I have the bose setup right now. I want to keep the stock HU (like it's look and don't want to lose the bluetooth) so I'm assuming I'd just run a LLC from the wires going to the stock subs in the back deck?

And if I add the sub, it would probably be better to just disable the rear deck subs all together since they obviously can't compete with a trunk sub right?

Thanks!

Me being the Rockford Fosgate fan that I am, my suggestion is the Rockford T2 10" subwoofer... or the T210D4 sub! It can also handle 1000W RMS easily!I'm personally going with the T212D4 subwoofer, which is the 12" version! It'll be powered by the Rockford T1500-1bd amplifier!

OK, if you want to keep your factory unit, you have a few options... you can get a Hi lo converter, and piggy back of of the rear speaker wires before they reach the BOSE amplifier.

The rear speakers are not rear deck subs, they are 6 x 9's, and you could fore go them alltogether but you will lose a bit of mid bass! But that won't reall matter if you're pumpin' 1000 watts into a 10"

lol Doc do you work for RF?

It seems those subs are getting harder and harder to find. Any other good 10" 1000W subs?

Nifty, do you have that W3 hooked up to your 1100W amp?

btw, where is the Bose amp in our car?
Modified by DarkKnight22 at 9:23 AM 4/15/2008

DarkKnight22 wrote:lol Doc do you work for RF?

It seems those subs are getting harder and harder to find. Any other good 10" 1000W subs?

Nifty, do you have that W3 hooked up to your 1100W amp?

btw, where is the Bose amp in our car?

"Blue Magic is a brand name! like Pepsi, that's a brand name! I stand behind it, I gaurantee it!" ... American Gangster (lol)

But that's how I feel about RF. Their lower line Punch stuff is just OK. Nothing to brag about... but their POWER series amps and subs are pretty good. And the T2 subs are just crazy!

Another good option is the JL W7 10"... if you're looking at something that can handle a lot of power and will produce clean bass with nice SQ!

I would not have chosen Hifonics. Not a very reliable amp, not very efficient! It's one of those companies that's been owned by a few larger companies and gets passed around because they don't sell verly well! But you already have it now so, oh well.

Oh yeah, and if you hooked that up to a W3, either its not really pushing 1000 watts or the gain is really far down... no way 1 W3 can handle 1000 watts for very long without blowing!

1 last thing, the Bose amp is mounted upside down in the trunk between the rear deck speakers!

Modified by rjdmmfl1 at 9:43 AM 4/15/2008
Modified by rjdmmfl1 at 9:44 AM 4/15/2008

rjdmmfl1 wrote:1 last thing, the Bose amp is mounted upside down in the trunk between the rear deck speakers!

A few questions...

1) Will the Bose Speakers & Amp push out enough Highs + Mids if I install dual 10 subs? I would probably turn the bass down on my Nav unit EQ and keep the Treble around mid or perhaps a little higher...

2) Is it possible to replace the Bose amp to push more power to the Bose Speakers?

maxentropy wrote:
A few questions...

1) Will the Bose Speakers & Amp push out enough Highs + Mids if I install dual 10 subs? I would probably turn the bass down on my Nav unit EQ and keep the Treble around mid or perhaps a little higher...

2) Is it possible to replace the Bose amp to push more power to the Bose Speakers?

1.No, you need at least 200W or more, that Bose won't be able to handle it plus......see #2

2.The Bose amp (at least on my previous cars) uses a weird Ohm rating. Even if the thing could push out enough power for the subs, I don't think the VC's would be stable at the weird ohm rating. As for replacing, again not 100% sure but I don't think that an aftermarket amp would easily fit in there, plus I think the HU has a weird output Voltage.

Doc, here's my issue with the W7, the nominal impedance is 3 ohms. My amp (and most others besides JL's) aren't stable at 3 ohms, and I def don't have the money for a new JL amp.

You really should give Hifonics a chance, they are better then most people think. It's a lesser known brand then the big ones but it can hold it's own and I've had it for 2 years without a problem.

Considering that I can get the 10" Type X for $209 plus shipping online, I think I'm just going to stick with what I know.

Any idea as to what a custom box runs these days, I'm def not interested in making a first attempt at figerglassing in a brand new car.

I probabaly should have mentioned that I dont have the bose system The main reason I jumped in was to show you how it could fit in your trunk.

The W3 is driven by an alpine 450 its 400rms at 2 ohms. I've started moving away from really loud and started going towards really clean, so its more than enough power.

I had the HiFonics Zeus ZX7500 and loved it with my old dual 10" Audiobahns.

But anyway, I believe you misunderstood my question so let me rephrase...

1) If I installed a seperate amplifier for additional subs, would the current bose system and its amp be loud enough on its own to handle my highs and mids while my other amp and sub handled the bass? Or would the bass drown out the highs/mids due to the bose system not pushing enough power?

2) I heard about the weird ohm power with the bose speakers..., so it really is not possible to push more power through the Bose speakers via replacing the bose amp? You'd think someone would have made something to do this...

3) All in all I am trying to figure out if it is really worth spending another grand on replacing all my bose speakers when they are fairly loud, just not sure what they'd sound like with two additional 10s in the trunk if I tweak my system to only have the Bose push the highs and mids... To sum that up-- is the bose enough power as is for highs/mids if installing additional subs or is it worth spending around 1k to replace all the bose speakers and amp?

Thanks guys

maxentropy wrote:
A few questions...

1) Will the Bose Speakers & Amp push out enough Highs + Mids if I install dual 10 subs? I would probably turn the bass down on my Nav unit EQ and keep the Treble around mid or perhaps a little higher...

2) Is it possible to replace the Bose amp to push more power to the Bose Speakers?

Question #1... NO. At high volumes, they will NOT keep up with two 10" woofers.. you won't hear any words, just bass! Too much trebel will distort at higher volume with the Bose Headunit!

Question #2... Yes, which is what I'm doing, but if you replace the Bose Amp, you need to replace the Bose Speakers also! Bose speakers are wierd (like Darkknight said, and so are their amps, they are meant for each other, and ONLY each other)

darkKnight22 wrote: Doc, here's my issue with the W7, the nominal impedance is 3 ohms. My amp (and most others besides JL's) aren't stable at 3 ohms, and I def don't have the money for a new JL amp.

You really should give Hifonics a chance, they are better then most people think. It's a lesser known brand then the big ones but it can hold it's own and I've had it for 2 years without a problem.

Its not that amps aren't stable at 3 ohm, its that hardly no one uses 3 ohm woofers and speakers, so most companies don't put them on their amp specs. If your amp is stable at 2 ohms, then your amp will peform fine at 3ohms, its just that the power output will be between what it would be at 4 ohm or 3 ohm !

Have you ever wired 3 x dual voice coil 2 ohm subs before? I have, and when wired in series, you get a 3 ohm load. With 3 x dual voice coil 4 ohm subs wired in parallel you get a 2.67 ohm load. An amp that is stable at 2 ohms will be fine with either setup, but again, power output will be between what it would be at 2 ohms and 4 ohms.

Also, for the record, my Boston Acoustic Pro Series components are 3 ohm, and I'm using the Rockford Fosgate T600-4 amp to push them!

Regarding Hifonics Amps... if you have the older series that was chrome/aluminum, then sound quality wasn't the best on those, but they beat like crazy, very powerful amps for what they were. again, not top quality, but powerful... but by all accounts, the NEW Hifonics amps that are black with blue letters are PURE GARBAGE!!!!!!!!

A custom box can be as little as $150 or as much as $1000, all depends on what you want!

Thanks, that's a damn shame!

Maybe I'll go with 1 10" woofer since I just want a tad more base response.

The girlyfriend doesn't like it cranked all the way, so I don't get to rock out that often anymore. A little more bass is just what the dr ordered.

rjdmmfl1 wrote:OK, if you want to keep your factory unit, you have a few options... you can get a Hi lo converter, and piggy back of of the rear speaker wires before they reach the BOSE amplifier.

OK,..so I'm thinking of doing what maxentropy is doing and keeping the stock system and adding on a separate amp and 1 10" sub to get a little more thump out of the bass. Just to get this clear in my head, the stock amp is mounted between the rear deck speakers. So I am assuming that there is a wire harness where the speaker wires goes into and goes out to..correct? I just need to tap into the speaker wires that is designated for the rear 6x9s before it hits the amp and splice in a Good Quality Hi-Lo converter. From there, I can plug in a quality RCA cable into the amp and from the amp into the 10" sub.

Does anyone know what the color code is those wires or better yet, a diagram of the pin-outs of the harness. Can this be found in the FSM..under electrical?

EDIT: Just searched the entire FSM manual and couldn't find anything referencing the wire color nor for that matter, the stereo wiring.
Modified by dangeris at 11:41 AM 4/16/2008

Correct for the LLC. I don't know the wire for the lows, still working on that part. I went into my trunk for a second last night and that amp must be pretty well hidden, I'm going to have to tear through some carpet to get to it lol. I see a how-to guide in the near future lol.

DarkKnight22 wrote:Correct for the LLC. I don't know the wire for the lows, still working on that part. I went into my trunk for a second last night and that amp must be pretty well hidden, I'm going to have to tear through some carpet to get to it lol. I see a how-to guide in the near future lol.

Hey guys, I found this for the 2007 Altima Sedan

zerothread/309239

I will check this weekend and get the ones for the 2008 Altima coupe... it may be the same it may be different

Depending on which amp you buy, some actually have built in hi-lo converter input built in. The hi input will be connected to the rear deck speakers. The lo output will connect to your aftermarket amp. Splice into the two rear deck speakers before the factory amp (rear speaker wires from head unit). The aftermarket amp will then use that signal to power your sub(s). The two speakers in the rear of our coupes are not subs and actually just 6/9 speakers (from what I've heard).

The other wire you need to connect off the Bose amp is the remote turn on wire which will remotely turn on your aftermarket amp when the radio is turned on. You will need 1 wire from your car battery 12V for power to amp. But don't use the stock bose amp on/off wire (green and white). it is not powerful enough and only runs at about 5 volts. i tapped the accessory on wire which essentailly turns on your radio when your vehicle is in the ACC or ON position.

-Took some of this from some "other forums" and reworded it a bit to help us out...
Modified by maxentropy at 3:04 PM 4/16/2008

Speaker colors for the Altima Coupe...

LF Speaker (+) WHITE LF Speaker (-) BLACK RF Speaker (+) GREEN/WHITE RF Speaker (-) BROWN LR Speaker (+) ORANGE/BLACK LR Speaker (-) WHITE/RED RR Speaker (+) BLUE RR Speaker (-) BLACK/WHITE

rjdmmfl1 wrote:Speaker colors for the Altima Coupe...

LF Speaker (+) WHITE LF Speaker (-) BLACK RF Speaker (+) GREEN/WHITE RF Speaker (-) BROWN LR Speaker (+) ORANGE/BLACK LR Speaker (-) WHITE/RED RR Speaker (+) BLUE RR Speaker (-) BLACK/WHITE

Thanks Doc for confirming the wires! Question though, which ones are the wires that goes into the amp? If I'm going to splice in an LLC, do I hook it up to the orange/black for the LR and Blue for the RR? or White/Red for the LR and Black/White for the RR?

Also did you confirm the location of the amp as well? Is it in between the rear speakers?

dangeris wrote:
Thanks Doc for confirming the wires! Question though, which ones are the wires that goes into the amp? If I'm going to splice in an LLC, do I hook it up to the orange/black for the LR and Blue for the RR? or White/Red for the LR and Black/White for the RR?

Also did you confirm the location of the amp as well? Is it in between the rear speakers?

yes, amp is between the rear speakers.. just pull down the grey cloth and its there

well, for the high-low converter, you will have a positive and negative wire for each speaker... so for the rear right (RR) speaker, hook the positive on the high-lo converter to the blue wire, and hook the negative on the high lo converter to the black/white wire!

anybody care to post pics of your set up (amp & sub added to bose stereo)

also for those who have the bose navi... and have replaced the unit with an aftermarket... which did you get? how much was the cost? and what features or benefits were there because of this?

With that much power I'd say FI Q or and SSA ICON they have good SQ but the list goes on. I pretty much replaced all my stuff but no rears I pulled those. anyway I have installed HU: Alpine CDA-9887, Door Spk: Hertz HSK165 (got a deal on them), Subs: Pair of DD 1508, Amps: saz-1500D & sax-100.2 and custom box came out to almost $2000

MikeisSUPERBAD wrote:anybody care to post pics of your set up (amp & sub added to bose stereo)

also for those who have the bose navi... and have replaced the unit with an aftermarket... which did you get? how much was the cost? and what features or benefits were there because of this?

who gets the Bose Navi and replaces the headunit????? Isn't that a waste of money?

rjdmmfl1 wrote:
yes, amp is between the rear speakers.. just pull down the grey cloth and its there

well, for the high-low converter, you will have a positive and negative wire for each speaker... so for the rear right (RR) speaker, hook the positive on the high-lo converter to the blue wire, and hook the negative on the high lo converter to the black/white wire!

Oh duh! Sorry Doc! I don't know what the hell I was thinking! of course. positive and negative.. Sorry for the idiotic question. Was having a Geritol moment.

rjdmmfl1 wrote:
who gets the Bose Navi and replaces the headunit????? Isn't that a waste of money?

BTW guys, I told my wife what I was planning to do with my sound system in the car and I think that pushed her over the edge She said to me that there is a fine line between being an enthusiast and insanity
Modified by dangeris at 6:36 AM 4/21/2008

yeah thats a waste

not a waste if you really want to upgrade yours and then sell me the bose nave for cheap

OK, correction to my earlier post...

the wires LEAVING THE AMP going directly to the speakers are ....

LF Speaker (+) WHITE LF Speaker (-) BLACK RF Speaker (+) GREEN/WHITE ????RF Speaker (-) BROWN ????

LR Speaker (+) WHITE/BLACKLR Speaker (-)GREEN/BLACKRR Speaker (+) BROWN/WHITERR Speaker (-) BOWN

Rear speakers are verified... front left (driver's side) are also verified... gotta recheck the front right (passenger's side)

I don't know if the wires going to the Bose Amp are the same color..

Also, the Bose Amp is between the rear speakers ONLY IN THE SEDAN w/ Prem Package.

In the coupe, the Bose Amp is supposed to be in the trunk, on the passenger's side, underneath the packaging for the spare tire...

That's what's in the FSM, gotta verify next weekend!

bump

Hey Doc, Don't forget to verify this...please