is it possible to do i i just love the sound it makes,and no the littles whistle thigns they sell on eaby suck

PLEASE don't do it.

lol k then is there any kind of a cheap turbo setup i can install myself for cheap price?

Ok, well, yeah. If your car is n/a, the BOV would serve no purpose as there is no excess exhaust pressure being built up by the turbine since you don't have one to create the backpressure.

As for the "cheap" turbo kits, you get what you pay for. I found a kit that turbokits.com sells that include a gt2871r .60 ar for about $3600. That includes FMIC, all plumbing, lines for oil and water and necessary hardware.

wow are you serious? if you really want one why don't you save some money, research and get a real turbo.

besacus by the time i have enough money for a turbo i will not have this car

yeah i have seen them too..its just a little thing you screw into the end of yoor exhaust tip.. ha ha do you have an air intake? that makes a sound nicer than any blow off valve!!

Please, please don't.

Do it right, or don't do it.

Poser faux parts are for ricers.

There are two sayings that apply to modifying cars and they are equally true as well as applicable:

"You have to pay to play."

and

"You get what you pay for."

You might want to keep those in mind for future reference.

i agree. dont do it..they sound good when the need is there

you could always just make the noise yourself when you are driving down the street?...

DevonD wrote: do you have an air intake? that makes a sound nicer than any blow off valve!!

AZhitman wrote:Please, please don't.

Do it right, or don't do it.

Poser faux parts are for ricers.

I agree 100%

yeah! just make the noise when your driving! The car may not be any faster but you will get that sound your lookin for... ha ha thats halarious D-Maxima!!

you could always just make the noise yourself when you are driving down the street?...[/QUOTE]

ha ha ha.... is that what you do.

I'd like to say that 3,600 doesn't include a boost controller, new ECU, larger fuel injectors, new lower end to reduce compression, or 9 of the other things you'd want to do first, or NEED to do. This is way out of the scale of something cheap and easy to do. I Would consider an engine swap to be almost as easy as boosting a N/A Engine in this case. Unless your willing to throw down megamoney (4-5k) I wouldn't bother even thinking of your "Pewwwwww" sound.

Saw some incorrect info that I need to straighten out.

A blow off valve relieves intake air pressure before the throttle plate after it has been shut to prevent damage to the compressor (turbo or centrifugal s/c can apply in this case). If you have a turbo and don't have the blow of valve it can cause the wheel to slow down, stop, and even worse, I've heard that it can reverse the rotation... all of which can do some potentially major damage to your turbo (i.e. it can destroy it). With a centrifugal s/c you don't have to worry about the wheel speed changing since it is belt driven but I'm sure it can still do some nasty stuff to the compressor wheel itself with enough pressure.

Now some additional info... on our cars, being that they are equipped with an MAF you really should use a recirculation valve. Unless you have the MAF on the charged side and have the BOV before it you will have running issues. Basically what happens when a BOV is after the MAF is you're releasing metered air. When you release metered air to the atmosphere the ECU doesn't know that you got rid of some air that was going into the engine so it will inject enough fuel for the air that was metered. Since there is less coming in to the engine it will now all of a sudden run rich momentarily. It can be bad enough that after running hard through one gear and shifting to the next, it can bog slowing you down for a moment in the next gear.

If you're running the MAF on the non-charged side you should really run a recirculation valve to prevent this. You won't quite get the noise of a BOV but it will at least being running properly. Another point of interest with the recirc valve, when you route the air back to the inlet of the turbo, it can actually act as a sort of anti-lag mechanism keeping your turbo spooled as you come on the throttle again.

AcMav wrote:I'd like to say that 3,600 doesn't include a boost controller, new ECU, larger fuel injectors, new lower end to reduce compression, or 9 of the other things you'd want to do first, or NEED to do. This is way out of the scale of something cheap and easy to do. I Would consider an engine swap to be almost as easy as boosting a N/A Engine in this case. Unless your willing to throw down megamoney (4-5k) I wouldn't bother even thinking of your "Pewwwwww" sound.

http://www.turbokits.com/maxima_turbo_kits.html

That kit includes brand new Garrett GT2871R, FMIC, piggy-back fuel management, 2 injectors, internal wastegate, adapter plate, downpipe w/ gasket, TSI injection control unit w, turbo timer and as I said, all associated hardware, fittings and lines. As I stated before, this is a complete kit.

As for the bottom end rebuild, sure, you can do that and it'll lower the compression but isn't necessary with this kit. The VQ series motor can handle up to the 8psi that this kit is saying it will run.

Come to think of it, the HLH 4g Maxima ran somthing like 14psi on a stock bottom end IIRC. So as for building the bottom end, nonsense I say as long as you stay at or under the 8psi that they reccommend.

D_roc wrote:is it possible to do i i just love the sound it makes,and no the littles whistle thigns they sell on eaby suck

Dude, that's like bolting on a big **s hood scoop when nothing even pokes through the metal...

There will be plenty of folks standing in line to make you turn red with embarrassment when you can't run what you show.

--Mike

MaximA32 wrote:http://www.turbokits.com/maxima_turbo_kits.html

That kit includes brand new Garrett GT2871R, FMIC, piggy-back fuel management, 2 injectors, internal wastegate, adapter plate, downpipe w/ gasket, TSI injection control unit w, turbo timer and as I said, all associated hardware, fittings and lines. As I stated before, this is a complete kit.

As for the bottom end rebuild, sure, you can do that and it'll lower the compression but isn't necessary with this kit. The VQ series motor can handle up to the 8psi that this kit is saying it will run.

Come to think of it, the HLH 4g Maxima ran somthing like 14psi on a stock bottom end IIRC. So as for building the bottom end, nonsense I say as long as you stay at or under the 8psi that they reccommend.

Im running 12psi on a stock VQ30 with 224k. No need to rebuild just make sure the tune is up to par.

kzoosho wrote:
Im running 12psi on a stock VQ30 with 224k. No need to rebuild just make sure the tune is up to par.

where you been? so if i wanted to get a custom lim and bolt on an eaton sc from gm's 3800 series II would i need bigger injectors and a diferent maf? it puts out 9psi stock.

allensteiner wrote:where you been? so if i wanted to get a custom lim and bolt on an eaton sc from gm's 3800 series II would i need bigger injectors and a diferent maf? it puts out 9psi stock.

Its almost not worth it to even try a setup like that with the cost being very high. You would be better off to do a turbo setup and that way you can increase boost when you want or need. And you would end up with more power man.

see it's the cost i'm thinking about. $200 for a sc from a junkyard, adapter to mount on lim - dunno how much yet - injectors, maf and safc less than $2k. a turbo kit starts over $3500 with just the blower and piping. i'd go crazy spending but life happens...and i have a wife and a baby girl to support so gonna have to go cheap on boosting

allensteiner wrote:see it's the cost i'm thinking about. $200 for a sc from a junkyard, adapter to mount on lim - dunno how much yet - injectors, maf and safc less than $2k. a turbo kit starts over $3500 with just the blower and piping. i'd go crazy spending but life happens...and i have a wife and a baby girl to support so gonna have to go cheap on boosting

Doing a one off is never the cheap route just to let you know. If you are looking for a bolt on turbo kit then yes 3500 is what youa re looking at. But if you doa custom setup you can have it done for 2500 or less . But i mean i guess go ahead and try it . U never know it may be cheaper. I know i personally wouldnt do it.

i gotta be cheap so unfortunately i have to try...i thought about taking the exhaust part off of a turbo, replacing the inner bearing so i wouldn't have to run oil, putting a pulley on that side and running that off my belt as a sc. that might be even less expensive. but that aside, i see you have diferent mafs on your boosted cars. can the stock max maf not handle boost? i thought that safc would be enough for air/fuel adjustment.

allensteiner wrote:i gotta be cheap so unfortunately i have to try...i thought about taking the exhaust part off of a turbo, replacing the inner bearing so i wouldn't have to run oil, putting a pulley on that side and running that off my belt as a sc. that might be even less expensive. but that aside, i see you have diferent mafs on your boosted cars. can the stock max maf not handle boost? i thought that safc would be enough for air/fuel adjustment.

I ran the stock maf for a year and just went to a Q45 maf because of the turbo change. i think the stock maf will handle 300hp of air not 300hp. The current turbo i have can push more cfms than the stock maf can handle so i opted to use a larger one. Also for a low boost setup or in my case my setup the safcII and wideband is a perfect setup. I can tune with it and have no problems getting my a/f right.

-go on limewire and find a blow off valve sound effect-burn it on a disc- insert in cd player- roll down windows with maximum volume- time your shift right and hit skip track- enjoy sound -repeat as necessary till "warm ricer feeling of success" has been accomplished.

allensteiner wrote:i thought about taking the exhaust part off of a turbo, replacing the inner bearing so i wouldn't have to run oil, putting a pulley on that side and running that off my belt as a sc.

The main problem with that is compressor speed. Turbo compressors can spin upwards of 100,000+ RPM to flow the air desired whereas most centrifugal superchargers spin up to maybe 55,000 RPM and are internally geared to spin the impeller faster. Say your engine redlines at 7,000 RPM and the desired boost pressure requires 100,000 RPM with the turbo, that would require a pulley ratio of 14.3:1... meaning, you would need a 14.3" pulley on the engine and a 1" pulley on the turbo to hit 100,000 RPM at your 7,000 RPM redline. 14.3" is huge and 1" is pretty small for a pulley, basically there's not much metal there for the belt to get very good grip so there would likely be quite a bit of belt slip.

From there the shaft is likely not strong enough to handle the stresses of a belt pulling on it so it would like bend or break pretty quickly and without providing much, if any, boost.

You can however build your own turbo setup for pretty cheap. If I did it again with a 3rd gen I know I could probably make an easy 400 whp or so for less than $2000, maybe $2500 or so. It probably won't be quite as easy for the 4th gen and up but you could still build your own kit and make some respectable power for minimal money. It mostly takes a lot of DIY work and bargain shopping. Don't get the shiny new ball bearing turbo, get the cheaper journal bearing unit or for even less a good used unit like the HX/HY35 off of a Dodge Ram with the Cummins diesel, which will support nearly 500 hp or so (may be a bit overkill for what you want... but then again). For injectors you can get some nice deals on eBay and I've found that Deatschwerks has pretty good deals as well. Just stay away from the known crappy ones like Venom and such. Fuel tuning can be done with a low cost piggy back and if you're handy with a welder or have a friend that can weld, you can do all of the piping yourself for pretty cheap. Metal prices are a bit higher since I've done mine so it may cost a bit more to do now but can still be done cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

do it!

Oh god why would you ever post that, Now he will go do it.

Ive been personally considering doing what Kzoosho did and turboing my car except for the fact i'd rather get my suspension done first. I have access to a stock turbo off a Gen 9 Evo that could be placed in.

Seeing that we are going offtopic and changing this into a turbo discussion, i have a few questions for Kzoosho, Does the stock fuel pump put out enough fuel pressure for the forced induction? Did you have to move to a higher gauge fuel line?

Do you have any pictures of your intake/exhaust setup? Is there enough room under the hood for all this? And did you cut apart the front bumper to fit in an intercooler?

That Evo turbo will probably be a bit too small for a 3 liter. It will spool quick and give decent power but will probably end up choking the engine a bit in the higher revs. It will probably be ok for around 300 whp but may start choking a bit above that potentially, depending on which turbine housing it has.

AcMav wrote:Oh god why would you ever post that, Now he will go do it.

Ive been personally considering doing what Kzoosho did and turboing my car except for the fact i'd rather get my suspension done first. I have access to a stock turbo off a Gen 9 Evo that could be placed in.

Seeing that we are going offtopic and changing this into a turbo discussion, i have a few questions for Kzoosho, Does the stock fuel pump put out enough fuel pressure for the forced induction? Did you have to move to a higher gauge fuel line?

Do you have any pictures of your intake/exhaust setup? Is there enough room under the hood for all this? And did you cut apart the front bumper to fit in an intercooler?

I have pics of everything. I also did run the stock injectors,maf,and fuel pump for a year but i dont recomend it at all. My injectors were at 95% duty cycle under boost so not safe at all. Also i had to run 60psi of fuel pressure to keep from leaning out which is not a safe thing to do. I would say a walbro 255 and afpr on stock injectors and maf are ok to about 300hp, after that you need to upgrade everything. here are a couple pics of the car with my old setup.

And here are pics of the intercooler as i was installing it.