Post by
tfvesquire »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/tfvesquire-u83121.html
Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:19 pm
Hi There:
I saw your post and wanted to give my experience. I actually had a company (same place I got my replacement engine) install the engine and was able to get the rack replaced for only $100 since they already had the engine out of the way. If your steering rack is leaking or if it has some miles on it, I recommend doing the replacement along with the engine swap especially if you are going to keep the car, which after replacing the engine I would say the rest of your car is a keeper. Not sure about the issues with the manifold bolts breaking off in the heads, but my engine came with the manifolds attached, so I had them just spray the convertor pipe bolts and nuts and then heat them up to remove them. the worst is when you snap a bolt off right in the middle of your swap and it take 4 hours to remove the broken piece.
If I had to do the swap myself, I would probably keep the trans bolted to the engine and pull everything as one. The only other thing to keep an eye out for are the egr lines that bolt to the exhaust pipes. I removed the larger pipe from the egr to clean it after I got the car back and it kept throwing a code (ended up being the MAF). When I tried to rethread that nut, the angle was not straight and I spend almost a 1/2 hour trying to get the nut started before I realized I had to jack up the rear of the engine to get the right angle to prevent cross threading.
Hope this info helps and best of luck!!
Ted