Hi All,

I have a 1996 Infiniti I30, automatic transmission, that will not start. I have replced the ignition switch, the starter and battery were tested yesterday, at 2 different locations, and they're both good. When the key is turned to the 'On' position all of the 'idiot lights' do come on, and when I turn the key to the 'Start' position I just hear a single click under the dash by my left knee. I've also attempted to jump the car and wasn't able to. I've checked the wipers, horn, lights, etc... and they all seem to work fine. Before this when I tried starting the car the starter would sometimes just spin freely and it took several tries to get the car started. I just replaced the ignition switch this morning, tried starting again and nothing. Does anyone have an idea of what may be causing this problem?

As a side note, and not sure if it matters or not, I can' remember if the security light on the dash used to blink or if it was steady when the ar was locked. Either way it's steady red now.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!

If the security light is constantly on, that means that it is active and won't allow the car to start. I'm not too sure how to disable it. Hopefully, someone else will chime in here.

Depending on the model year, newer Nissan/Infiniti vehicles may have Nissan Anti Theft System (NATS)-Immobilizer or just Theft Warning System (with Starter Inhibit). In the 97 I30, it only has Theft Warning System and is less complicated. Regardless, the SECURITY LED is an integral part of either system and its illumination is controlled by the BCM which in turn monitors the doors, hood and trunk switches plus other parameters.. Below is the system status and LED illumination

DISARMED state (SECURITY LED flashes every second) - doors/hood/trunk not locked (or open without the system being armed).
PRE-ARMED state (LED steady ON for @ 30 secs) - doors/hood/trunk closed and THEN locked manually or thru remote control. The system verifies conditions are met to go to ARMED state.
ARMED state (LED flashes every 2.4 secs) - when PRE-ARMED state is completed after 30 secs, system is READY to warn/disable the car.
WARNING/STARTER INHIBIT state (LED flashing every 2.4 secs) - if any door is unlocked or hood/trunk is opened without usage of key or remote control. the warning horns sounds and headlights flash for 2.5 minutes while the starter is inhibited for the duration of the warning condition
CANCELED state (DISARMED, LED flashes every second) - door(s) unlocked using key or remote control.

Note: For cars withe NATS-Immobilizer, the Ignition Lock Cylinder and the ECU contain the Ignition Key ID. Replacing either one will cause a mismatched Key ID, inhibiting the starter. This situation requires reprogramming at the dealership.

If the SECURITY LED is steady ON all the time, that may indicate a problem with the Theft Warning System or BCM which is preventing the car from being started.

You can try cheating the system - it may or may not work. If the system did not go in ARMED state after locking the doors (PRE-ARMED state not completed due to door/hood/trunk not being closed), then theoretically, the starter inhibit should not work. Disconnect the hood switch (located behind the driver side headlight) and stow it so it does not detect the hood closing. Lock the doors and check the Security LED does not go in PRE-ARMED/ARMED state (wait at least 30 secs). Unlock the door then start the car. Let us know if it works or not.

Thanks for the replies! It looks like I may have shorted you on some info. If I lock the doors with the key then the security loight is steadily on, solod red. I removed one of the anti-theft fuses, one at a time, and the security light blinks about every second, I have not removed both fuses at once though. If the anti-theft fuses are in place and the doors areunlocked the security LED does NOT flash/blink at all. Once I unlock the doors the security light goes off, and stays off (not blinking at all), again all the idiot lights come on, radio works, etc..., but the car still doesn start. Could this be an issue with the Neutral/Park Safety switch, or starter relay?

I'll try the trick with the hood when I get the chance and post back.

Thanks again!

The Neutral/Park Safety Switch is a possibility but is less likely given the fact that you have abnormal Security LED operation. BTW, the Neutral/Oark Safety Switch is called Inhibitor Switch (Automatic) or Clutch Interlock Switch (Manual). There is no Starter Relay for the 96 I30. The Starter Solenoid (in Starter Assembly) engages when the Ignition Switch at START position and BOTH Theft Warning Relay (controlled by BCM/Warning System) and Inhibitor Relay (Clutch Interlock Relay for Manual).

Refer to the link below for additional info. Page EL-25 for description and EL-26 to EL-28 for wiring diagram and EL-276 for component location.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/1996_I30/el.pdf

There is a SINGE-WIRE connector (wire color coding depends whether it's Automatic or Manual) that goes to the Starter Solenoid. You can disconnect it and take voltage measurement while somebody starts the car. If you get 12 VDC during starting, the interlocks (Theft Warning and Inhibitor Relays) are satisfied and you may have a problem with the starter or a weak battery. If there is no 12 VDC available (more likely), then it's either the Theft Warning Relay (controlled by BCM/Security System) or the Inhibitor Relay (controlled by the Inhibitor Switch) giving the problem.

Since most likely the starting problem is associated with the abnormal Security LED indication (problem with BCM/Theft Warning System), then you can remove the Theft Waning Relay and jumper Pins 3 and 4 (to bypass the Theft Warning System interlock) to start the car. The relay location is shown on page EL-276

Thanks again for all of the info loystock!

If i try to jumper pins 3 and 4 after removing the Theft Warning Relay is there a gauge of wire that's recommended, or what would you recommend? And since the starter, with the solenoid, has been bench tested at 2 different places is it possible that it could still be the issue?

Jestar

Jestar15 did you finally get your I30 fixed back in 2010 ? In so please let me know how you fixed it I am having the exact same problems you had. Any info would be a big help.