I recently purchased a Q45 that I got a good deal and off the bat knew it was a leaking injector. The PO said he replaced injector #3 with new o-rings which I think weren't OEM but from O'rileys. Anyways I ripped the car apart to find out #3 spark plug was BLACK and #1, #5, #7 all were wet. I looked inside the intake ports and saw a puddle of gas. I drained the oil and it was basically just gas in brown color.

I noticed one injector was purple and the rest tan so I decided to just replace all of them, if anybody has some PM ASAP. My issue is I am quite confused as to why the screen filter on the tan ones are at the top yet the purple one at the bottom? I assume maybe this caused the leak or is this a new design but same exact injector?

Here's what I pulled out:
not the actual pic of my injector


and here is the ones I have stock:
goody90q45's image I found.


Somebody help me out please? I am having the hardest time using the search, seems more complicated then before.

PS if anybody can send me to the guy who helps us all out with parts? I lost all info on him. Thanks!

If anybody can please let me know if the injectors have a difference. I need to get this car running by the end of the year, the rest I'll figure out on my own thanks.

not quite following your question.
the purple one in your picture is not a nissan part (at least to my knowledge).
the correct service part for your car is 16600-67u10. They are a pale purple--sorta lavender color maybe? Haven't priced them lately--prolly over $200 per.
always juice up the rail before reinstalling into the lower runners to verify no leaks.

I know it's not a Nissan injector but it's the same style as the 300ZX TT injector. My question is about the filter screen I have a purple one just like that and 7 like the tan ones. I'm curious as to why they are different? They are both if correct 370cc and PO had replaced one with a Nissan OE one that looks just like the purple one. If it helps I'll upload a picture once I'm home. Thanks for the response.

Okay let me show you what I meant. I circled the bodies of both injectors so you can see what I am trying to ask. Why are those different and does it affect how they sit on the rail? PO had put in a purple top exactly like that to replace a tan one. Any ideas? Possibly it sits differently?

tan:



purple:



Help! Thanks.

xKnownShadowX wrote:Okay let me show you what I meant. I circled the bodies of both injectors so you can see what I am trying to ask. Why are those different and does it affect how they sit on the rail? PO had put in a purple top exactly like that to replace a tan one. Any ideas? Possibly it sits differently?



Help! Thanks.

dunno why they are different---different manufacturers, etc.. you could look at the stackup heights, o-ring lands, etc to see that that part is the same.

^This. is what concerns me. looks like your pintle caps are missing? we need to first understand why you are dumping fuel. usually that would be a bad/mis-seated/wrong o-ring.

Thanks for the reply and you know what I just noticed that....where in the world did they go? See PO had a mechanic helping him and the mechanic ditched him to a never ending project. I am concerned about the center part I circled more, would that affect seating or is it just a different advanced design of filtering? I'll be replacing all the injectors with new OE ones and o-rings. I hope by replacing all O-rings, injectors, all misc stuff I have planned it cranks over perfectly fine. If fuel still dumps in the oil I will have to further investigate but as I first inspected the car before buying I knew it was a leaking injector, especially after he said they replaced one. Thanks for the reply I appreciate it.

I see what you mean. I used Standard Motor FJ284. This is the same oem as BWM. You can pick these up for $50 each from Rock Auto. I have been using a full set of 8 for a year with good results. If you search this site, you will see lots of guys have used BWM with good results. Your tan ones will fail electrically sooner or later because of the ethanol in the gas. The original injectors were never made to handle enthanol. Don't get rebuilt, you can't rebuilt the coil, and thats what fails.

I was thinking of going with the Nissan 300ZX TT inejctors, those as well will fail or built to not handle the octane? I'll look into the BWM injectors. Thanks!

I believe your purple injector is probably a BWD injector (Standard Motor Products). That's what I'm running in my Q with the 2nd gen rails. They checked out pretty well when tested by Deatschwerks. In fact I think they sell them now... can't say for sure, but shortly after testing mine they started selling their own "private label" new injectors.

Your problem is most certainly a pinched or damaged lower o-ring. If it wasn't lubed correctly (I used a smear of motor oil on the O-rings and inner wall of the fuel rail when installing mine) it'll happen. Clean or replace the spark plugs at the same time. Badly fouled ones will not fire.

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed on for no hydrolock damage. Good luck!

Heath

Q451990 wrote:I believe your purple injector is probably a BWD injector (Standard Motor Products). That's what I'm running in my Q with the 2nd gen rails. They checked out pretty well when tested by Deatschwerks. In fact I think they sell them now... can't say for sure, but shortly after testing mine they started selling their own "private label" new injectors.

Your problem is most certainly a pinched or damaged lower o-ring. If it wasn't lubed correctly (I used a smear of motor oil on the O-rings and inner wall of the fuel rail when installing mine) it'll happen. Clean or replace the spark plugs at the same time. Badly fouled ones will not fire.

I'll be keeping my fingers crossed on for no hydrolock damage. Good luck!

Heath

^^+1

The Purple injector looks to be a BWD. Like Heath I also run purple BWD black dots on my 91 without issue. The 4th generation Maxima and Infiniti I30 use red injectors. Last winter my V6 Nissan experienced uncontrollable flooding due injectors that had broken pintle caps and weak o-rings as shown in the picture below.

As you can see in the picture, the VQ30DE injectors look like Q45 injectors. However the fuel delivery cc size is smaller.
I refurbished a set of Phase II injectors like the ones in the picture with new screens, o-rings, and pintle caps to correct the flooding following problem. Deatschwerks in OKC will clean and refurbish injectors with new screens, o-rings, and pintle caps if you would like to get yours refreshed.

From observing the number of pintle cap failures (that lead to o-ring failures) that occur with Nissan engines from the 1990s, I think I will do some preventative maintenance on my 1999 I30 with ~270,000 miles to install new o-rings and pintle caps sometime this spring. As our Q45s age, it might be a good thing to get original injectors refurbished when the plenum is off to prevent flooding problems from occurring later on.

Problems caused by the injectors in this picture help to destroy a VQ30DE at ~168,000 miles. Last winter I purchased another engine from a wrecked car with ~73,000 miles. Unfortunately, the shop that performed the engine swap moved the bad injectors (in the rails) to the replacement engine. So the newer engine inherited the problems with the old engine. The flooding problems created all kinds of problems for the replacement engine. I had to take the car apart in my garage to find the pintle cap o-ring problem. That was after the catalytic converters had been destroyed.



You can order o-rings, screens, and pintle caps to refurbish your injectors from companies like the one in the link below.

http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Nissan-J ... e-Cap.html

>>

I had the same issue as you did with the two types of injectors. I talked to Witchhunter Performance and they confirmed that the design with the filter closer to the bottom of the injector is better than the higher up filter one for failures they have seen. Not sure if this is due to more ethanol-resistant coils or the location of the filter. The only thing I do not like about the newer design is the filter area is much smaller and would clog up faster. However they do sell kits with filters and o-rings on Ebay for a decent price.

Berner- I've got three of the purple top injectors in my 92Q and they work fine. As others have said the lower oring probably wasn't seated properly. I'd go with new injectors rather than using originals that have been sonically cleaned. They're 20 years old and will eventually fail. If $$ is tight replace the 5 under the plenum and do the other 3 (#1, #2 and #8) when you have the cash. You already have one new FI so you'd only have to purchase 4. When you replace the injectors do a leak down pressure check before reinstalling the plenum to make sure they're not leaking.

I tried to answer your PM a while back but you didn't have it enabled. How's the active suspension working?

Money ain't an issue in this case. I will be purchasing 8 brand new injectors, knock sensors, temp sensors, o-rings, and perhaps some cooling hoses. I had no issue removing this in 2 hours after removing the plenum form my last one back in 2009. I got the memory down like that. As to the active suspension, I haven't tried it because the car was towed and then taken apart. I did see it function before purchasing since he had the car running for like 3mins.

Didn't think much or replies after I got the response I needed.

justjuiceit4: I figure that was the main reason it was different I wasn't 100% sure though so I tripped out and wanted to make sure.

OwnerCS: Yeah I got no clue where they all went. I did some research and a lot say they aren't really needed but some said it's to project the tip. I prefer to have the pintle caps and be safe though.

goody90q45: How you been man? Yeah I got no clue how to use this thing anymore. I did send you an email I think? Once I get this running after Christmas or before I will post about the Active Suspension. I missed my Q so much I finally got another haha. The car is just too amazing.

Q451990: Thanks for your response, I will try to clean the plugs since they are new but #3 is just BLACK!!!! Any suggestions?

I also assume the main cause why all the injectors and plugs got wet was due to turning it over or trying, so I hope nothing happened with the motor. I do recall trying to crank it and hearing a big clunk, though it sounded like it wasn't getting enough power that's all, perhaps the battery was dead? CROSS YOUR FINGERS NO HYDROLOCK!

If I was spending my money and could remove/install the plenum in 2 hours I'd want to reinstall the fuel injector with new orings (without buying 8 new FI), get the engine running to make sure there's no piston rods broken from hydrolocking (the clunk you heard) and find out if the active suspension is working. You may find that it needs thousands of $$ to get the active working properly and it may not be worth your time and effort.

Well the issue is, while removing the old injectors 3-4 cracked and broke. If the active suspension doesn't work as it should I think I will take the route on converting but I'm confident it works. At the moment I'm waiting for my check to put in o-ring orders. I hope there is no hydrolocking if there is I guess a swap it will be, as much money as it may cost I did buy it as a fixer upper. Got to stay positive or I will just give up. Thanks for the info.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic- ... 32860.html