My Q takes a long time to start (it starts when cranked to the 5th second) and it almost always happens when my Q sits overnight. other than the fist start of the day, its starts on the 3rd second. and after starting, a few seconds later at idle, its starts increasing rpm's and goes past 2200 rpm and when I put it in gear it bucks forward or backward depending on the gear I put it in (Drive or Reverse). while letting the car roll forward in "Drive" it shifts into second gear after increasing rpm to 1700 on its own.

very recent repairs/jobs:

left bank fuel rail (pulled out of a 95 Q45)
#2 and #5 injectors
full deep plenum cleaning with aircraft paint remover
full deep throttle body cleaning with aircraft paint remover
full deep IAC/AAC valve cleaning and set to 1 full turn outward.
full deep lower intake manifold cleaning with aircraft paint remover
a few hoses
Transmission Fluid Change. ( I didn't clean the tranny filter)
knock sensors

What I did a little while ago:
spark plugs....pfr5g-11 (NGK Double Platnum?)
oil changes after 1500 miles with Penzoil Platnum with pure plus tech.(car sat for 6 years before handed down to me so I consider that normal for a few more oil changes)
starter relay
brakes
air filter

What I am going to do:
Plenum O Rings. (I pulled the plenum off 3 times in the last month so I have a feeling air is leaking through them)
valve cover gasket
IAC/AAC gasket
Throttle body Gasket
all Belts (they are dry rotted from sitting for so long)
tcs actuator (buzzing noise from the back of the engine towards the firewall in the starter relay area, im guessing its the tcs actuator)
pearl white or ivory quarts paint job.
front bumper

oh and I'm getting a new Die Hard battery, the previous owner (my father) cheaped out and put his Honda Odyssey battery in my Q

What happens with your idle speed after you let it idle for a few minutes?

it starts increasing rpm's

is it possible that I didn't properly set the IAC/AAC valve?

im getting like 10mpg

sounds like your iac valve is stuck or damaged from the cleaning. check for vac leaks with propane when you fix the iacv, or air fressure and soapy water. or if your baller like me use a smoke machine. one way to check iacv is to remove and tape the holes or juisxt clamp the iac hose down when the rpms go up. second, i think there was a wax idle up valve, if your coolant lines are bypassed or blocked it will stay open past initial warm up.

Is it possible that you adjusted the throttle cables when you had everything taken apart? If there's not a little bit of slack in there, it'll behave this way.

Heath

I'm at work. I'll check around midnight. i'm certain there are no vacuum leaks but I'll check with a cigar (JK), I inspected all hoses and replaces the damages hoses. there is no slack in the cable going to the TB, i'll double check it though

I wish I know where Dennis was in Atlanta so I can get my Q fully checked out by him

I checked, there is no slack, so how do I create slack? do I do it by turning the nuts on the throttle cable that keep it snug in its place?

I adjusted the throttle cable, started the car and it gave me the same symptoms except it idled at 1700 +/- 100 rpm instead of 2200+.
the next morning I started the car, it ran great, idled at 800 rpm, no bucking or jerking when put in gear the idle (letting the car roll) it was around 700 rpm and drove perfectly (except I need to change the 6 year old LSD oil), but when I came home and shifted into "park" to turn the car off, it idled higher around 1200rpm, the same day in the evening I started the car to go run some errands and it was back to the way it was when I first adjusted the throttle cable (idle 1500-2000 rpm), gear idle(when put in gear) increased to 1500 rpm and shifting into second on its own, bucking and jerking when put in gear.)

how can it be a sticking AAC valve, it idles normally at 700-800 rpm and a couple seconds *like 6 seconds* later it shoot up, but the rpm does dance up and down when its idling at 700-800 rpm and car shakes like its gonna turn off, same in all gears, could it have anything to do with my rear differential, cuz my slip light could be coming from the rear differential? I'm changing the 6 1/2 year old oil as soon as the gasket comes in.

No chance it's the differential.

unplug the SECONDARY throttle position sensor{used for the traction control system} and see if your problems disappear.

is that the tps towards the back side or front side.

nvm. i used my common sense

problem still persisted

I called T3 since I found monthly service records from them and the dealership in my dads old file and they said they couldn't help me, they don't even do induction services anymore which according to the records, was done on a monthly basis by T3.

how do I check the egr valve, im referring to the FSM, also it says to check the blow by hose, and check the IACV by turning the screw while the car is in "neutral" position.....is the engine suppose to be running when setting this? also I had the ECU out incase the CEL come back on, is it possible that the pins could have came out slightly on the ecu, as for the long start it told me to pinch the fuel feed hose to check for pressure, if no pressure then fuel pump is bad, but it was replaced less than 30000 miles ago and bought from the infiniti dealership, fuel pump controller was fine so only the pump was replaced. and how do I check the fast idle cam.

I checked the blow by hose,pinched the fuel hose, it had pressure, ecu pins were out a little bit, I pushed it back in and tighten the 10ml bolt. Im fairly certain that when I cleaned the IAC/AAC I didn't properly set it. what is the proper method.

You have to disconnect the connector to the IACV. With the parking brake set and the transmission in neutral, the Idle should be at 650RPM give or take 50 RPM after the engine is warmed up. you adjust the valve by turning the idle screw with a flat head screwdriver until the RPM is within 650. After this you reconnect it. The idle should then be around 850RPM I think.

so the car is running as you set it?

Yes it has to be running and at operating temp with the parking brake set and in neutral per the FSM.

will do and post back with updates

it didn't work, idle is the same

i turned the idle screw all the way in with the connector out and there was no change in idle

I just checked all fluids, could my problem be caused by low oil?

after "setting" the IAC, while driving, the rpm was bouncing between 200 rpm to 650 rpm when I let off the gas and down shifted to 1st gear

I ment to say that it happens when the car down shifts into 1st gear