I haven't tried looking for the rear shocks, mine are still fine, but when I looked at the Tokico 2013 catalog, there not listed anymore, Q45/Cima. Couple people told me that Tokico does this from time to time, discontinues product without notice, when a vehicle is too old. I just had delivered a set of HU-2890's today. I will have to "fix" them to fit on the front. Better start looking for other shocks or get into a set of adjustable coilovers.

So what do you do with the life time warranty that they place on tokicos if you have to file a claim?

Q-ZILLA wrote:Well, I said screw it and bought the last pair of HU-2890's this guy had for $209.88... Had 4 watchers, so I figure they're almost gone as well. I'll drill press 2mm out and be done.

I'm still waiting for responses for 2 other orders that I haven't had confirmation emails on. Jesus, I've got right at $750 out for one pair of shocks... At least this buys me some time for the coilovers.

Did you drill them out from 20.15mm to 22mm, and did it work? If so, could you describe how you did it? I measured a consistent 20.15mm inner diameter on the 2890 lower mount bushing from the point where the bushing's taper inward from the larger outer rim stops, then on through the bushing to its smaller outer rim. If you just drill that uniform 20.15mm portion of the bushing out to 22mm, does the shape of the bushing on the drilled shock match the shape of the spindle on the steering knuckle?

I've got two HU2890s, a drill press, a 95Q that needs shocks, and no leads on any 2890As. So I'm desperate. Still, the thought of taking 1mm off the 2.5mm thickness of that lower mount bushing on the 2890s is a little scary.

No, haven't tried yet. As it turned out, it was my upper control arm, it was all bent, causing the problem. At least I have a set of 2890's. I'll just add them to my parts shelf.

The more I thought about it, the more I didn't like the idea to drill them out, not much metal there and I think the metal will come off the rubber (torquing it around), making the shock useless. I could be wrong, but that's what I was thinking looking closer at the shock.

Another member had the idea to make cuts in the metal, on the sides, not the top and bottom, to spread the weight out better. Just slit the side down to the rubber and basically man handle it onto the lower unit. I actually like this idea better, but I'm no genius and don't know how well it would work.

The other thing to do is to get a set of earlier uprights that have the smaller lower mount. I think I've read that people with 90-93 have used 94+ uprights to use coilovers meant for 94+. Maybe worth a shot.

Might aswell go with adjustable upper control arms.

I thought about that too, but I always think, bigger is better. Infiniti engineers must have had a reason to increase the size, so what do you do? If you drop it, you will have to get adjustable uppers, otherwise you'll trash tires.

You have to remember that the engineers dont always do things for a good reason. Its probably not the engineer, but the business side influencing them. Any little change to a part means more money from replacement parts becuase a different part has to be manufactured, which means higher cost per part. I cant imagine the bigger size really makes any difference in the long run, yea I'd like knowing its bigger, but is it really going to fai? Another example parts changes are the tension rods between the 90-93 and 94+, the 90-93 are a 0.25" shorter for whatever reason, ask me how I know, its really agrivating when your laying underneath the car.

I just recomend getting adjustables because of tirewear, performance and cost not because you replace the uprights with the 90-93. I should have read more carefully, it looks like you already replaced the arms? I'm running a set of 300zx Megan adjustable arms, they are cheaper than the oem and if you lower the car in the future you dont have to worry about alignment. I know I need to get a set for the rear because I'm maxed out on adjustment and I'm still off.

Be sure that whenever you run the adjustable control arms that you cake those suckers up with anti-seize grease. I have the adjustable arms on my Q both front and rear, the fronts are basically junk now because the aluminum sleeve is seized onto the steel rod ends... I have the SPL arms, and those are NLA.

Also, you need to run poly tension rod bushings OR solid tension rods if you're running solid upper control arms, or at least you should. It uses ball bearings, which aren't designed for thrust loads.

Honestly if I had to go back and do it again, I'd run the adjustable arms in the rear, but I'd just shim the upper control arm bracket to get my alignment within spec, rather than mess with the adjustable ones. Realistically unless you have a racecar, once you get the alignment where you want it there's no reason to mess with it.

Luckily its not as much of a problem in California But in reality I did put antiseaze on all of the threads including the tie rod ends; I think the megans are completly made of steel but I dont remember for sure, so no Galvanic Corrosion. If you dont need adjustable tension rods I would go with the Z1 motorsports solid tension rod bushings, it presses into the original tension rod. Just make sure you dont have mismatched tension rods or you might even have active rods. Active rods have one beveled edge while the base have none.

elwesso wrote: I have the SPL arms, and those are NLA.

I still have a set NIB. Must find them and post to eBay.

call Vernon @ AAA imports in N. Carolina phone 336-723-2891 e-mail [email protected] they have them in stock.