Finally I'm moving forward with the Q. Got most of figured out throughout (kinda). I know I'm stripping down EVERYTHING, I'll buy a scale just for this! I know most is all over the net already... but I rarely see anything completed... or documented race only Q45. What's everyone's unsolved questions... might be able to figure out.

Here we go!! All stock babied by my mom for 20+ years. Only thing not stock is the motor... I blew up the first one when my parents were out of town. I was 19 lol! It's got a JDM motor (I wish I had the Nissan manifold still!!! My mom didnt want to "Downgrade the Q" hahahahahaha)

To do's:
whore myself out for $$$
Weight loss (not for me the car!)
Dry ice
Drop height
Cut springs now
Drop springs/coilover $$$/input later
z32 5spd
Adapter got ideas
Etc... got ideas
Ecu got ideas
race
Blew motor
New vh45 drop in (cost effective)
stage 2
race
Race
Blew motor
RB25, 1JZ, LS, ...??? INPUT NEEDED
stage 3

I'll post pics when I figure it out.



Keep bs to yourself... I would like ideas. Like the title says blank slate.
What's everyone's input
OR just watch

to NICO! I'll be in the "just watch" category, but I'm looking forward to it!

K did interior, and got final weights somethings surprised me, some didnt. Also have a video clip of the dry ice process (real easy!!) Vertical pieces were interesting. Peeled the back seat back rest dampening. No heat peeled off easy. Sticky mess!!
Good luck with truck dampening. That stuffs STUCK on with extra hard adhesive. Lots of ice and it was still a Lil difficult, and in places just said F it good enough... grind it off if it bugs me that much!!
Damn phone won't upload my pics stupid S5 crap! (Please no side topics of the inadequate Samsung... or my speelliing)
weight loss done by my official Kmart cheap weight watchers scale (350 max lbs, digital, .1lbs, $24)
total 20lbs of dry ice... if you get more ice it's just easier. Ino video I used half of 5lb block. If I used the whole block crushed up in the front I could'very had the whole thing up in 3 big sheets.
Trick: crush ice real fine like "fresh powder" and a strong fan. Distribute ice evenly and flash freeze wit fan. Pops right off!! Rarely used hammer (side from the trunk. That crap pissed me off!! I wailed that dead blow!!! Any ways

Official way ins:

10# Fire wall damper (fluffy stuff)
42# Carpet
20# Ez plastic items associated with carpet removal, and floor mats (floor mats were most of the weight)
33# Back seat top
26# Back seat bottom
67# Driver seat
55# Passenger seat
2.5# Nuts and bolts
43# Sound deadening (still to to: inside cabin wheel wells, under dash, some console, engine bay, around gas tank but might not because of vibrations, luggage deck, roof, speakers, and whatever else I find later)
20# Trunk crap, tools, and carpeting
25.4# Spare tire
_________________________
343#s Est Total removal
167# Removed with seats back in for now $$$ need for Trans swap next step.

$30 dry ice at Fart & Smile
$10 scrapers 1 long skinny 1 skinny & angled
$7 dead blow
1 weekend. do it on a hot day cause it gets real cool and nice.
Watch "91 Q45 sound deadening removal dry ice" on YouTube

https://youtu.be/9DkksctOdqE

Keep in mind I refined the technique after the video.
Cheers!

Hopefully this works...??????

I to am building a drift q45. Nice start

Well was talking with Stillen this week trying to get one of their low milage z32 trans that they had laying around for the last 10 yrs. We'll in the meantime of him checking with his bosses I found a 93 300zx NA for a steal!!! Which is probably a lil less work from my understanding. Put it this way Stillen and I laughed at the price I paid for it!!!!!
Soooo... on my way to next step... vhpower adapter plate. UNLESS someone has any input to add that another is better???? Still looking @ ecu stuck between the vhpower or nistune
Vhpower: plug and play, user friendly, price +++$250, eliminated sensors that I don't want
nistune: dyno tuning needed, price $375, can have sensors eliminated, flexibility of tuning with new upgrades, person installing and tuning is local.
these are some of the differences from my understanding... always would like more information! !!

Update conversation with Wes with vhpower. Really cool and informative guy!!
Re: His adapter plate, and ecu


Nick,

I can usually ship a plate within a week of ordering. My shop that makes
them is 2 hours away so it usually takes me a week to find time to get it
or meet up with someone that can pick it up.

Regarding the NISTUNE, all that it is a board that lets you do your own
tuning. Basically what you do is install a socket in the ECU where the
EEPROM is, and then you can make your own tune. About 90% of the cost of
my ECU is the labor to install the socket. that said, if you got my ECU
and decided you wanted to do use a NISTUNE, say to tune for boost, larger
injectors, etc, you would just pop out my chip and install the NISTUNE.

We have a N/A tune that's meant to be used with stock injectors and MAF.
We also have a boost tune good for about 450HP that's designed to work
with stock injectors and MAF. For most N/A stuff (unless really crazy),
you don't need to change the injectors and MAF, and actually the MAF and
injectors max out at the same point, so when you need to change one you
need to change both.

- Wes

Had time today after cleaning up garage.
Got the second muffler off. Extra weight off and a decent raspy sound... looks like the oem pipes are equalized by an "H" pipe. Kinda out dated but HELL the 2 banks have equal back pressure... FOR FREE!!! AND gives that high rpm raspy sound (on deceleration) like my X pipe on my Plymouth.
doesn't look like mandrel bends so when money is available I'll match the diameter of the collected and run mandrel bends w/ X pipe.

Well anyways the fun stuff.

36# BACK MUFFLER
weight in the bank!!
There was a lot of lateral weight on that piece, because the rear of the car lifted about a 1/2 in after the springs relaxed back. Glad I haven't touched the springs yet because I would be cutting or changing again. Lol!
Enjoy!

Collected = collectors
... money is available I'll match the diameter of the collected and run mandrel bends w/ X pipe.

So getting back to the Q this month, and got distracted by some badly needed suspension. I was getting tired of looking at the wheel and fender gap, and seemed to be getting bigger!!!!

Contacted Charles @ POWERTRIX and he sent me what I needed to get the job done. He was extremely knowledgeable and very helpful.

Well anyways as you all probably already know 300zx coilovers bolt right up w/ 4x S14 REAR TOP STRUT MOUNTS/ top hats. Bolts right up. Easy peasy! No Drilling of any holes. The S14 rears seem to be the same strut mount and studs as the Qs. This I know because I had a set of S14 blown rears laying around at a buddies shop and compared. Noticed the 300zx fronts were the same mount with different studs (wider/thicker studs)

**************************************

I went a different route. I think wider’s better, and mostly because the 300zx top hats were in stock!!!!!! Well the only difference between the S14 rear and the 300zx front is the studs on the strut mount/top hat. 300zx is a 10 instead of an 8 size if I recall correctly. Anyways a little shaving of the inside of each hole with a file or drill bit. Done!!! Slapped together in the late afternoon, driving in the evening!! The hardest part is getting the car off the floor jack because its SLAMMED!!! (In pic 5in off the ground maybe

**************************************

Looks great! Still have plenty of up and down to go. I could probably get it back up to stock position, but not the stock position that I had without all the sound dampening and trunk cleared out.

POWERTRIX are GREAT!!!!!!!

Look into them for the price of d2 or Megan’s… these put others to shame! Right up there with custom companies like Feel Suspension that are $500+ more.

Charles explains that its all about the shock they use. Its competitive with high end race shocks. The other companies band aid a crappy shock by putting a very stiff spring on, to make you think its performance. AND the adjustments on these shocks… REALLY DO SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I’m on setting #8 and its nice and tight @ 90mph, and you wont get slapped by your girlfriend cause her boobs just flap jacked! But if you like getting slapped, than the max setting is fun too… Super tight in the turns! Definitely for road courses not so much for the street pot holes.

These struts are so tight that when I really get into some mountain turns my trunk pops open! Looks like I’m going to need a rear sway bar sooner that I thought. Maybe that will help otherwise gunna start looking at strut tower braces.



Post pics as soon as photo bucket wants to.

Recap:
POWERTRIX 300zx coilovers @ 8k/6k (will upgrade spring rate later)

4x 300zx front strut mount/Top hats

8x shaved inner side of holes on the strut tower

Slapped on and adjust for desired height

Grab you neighbor to help you get the car off the floor jack (too low lol!)

Enjoy Life!!!

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Soo life's slowed and allowed me to get back to the Q. Got mostly everything need for the swap through xsessive (pretty much everything they offer for the 5spd swap) We will see how it bolts up. Took some unwrapping pics


Instructions... whats that? Looks good in the packaging!!







What $2000.00 looks like!
Missing driveshaft and vg mount, but there it is!!
Thanks to the brothers @ XCESSIVE MANUFACTURING.
Thanks so much for your help!!!

Also anyone with brake booster knowledge would be great.
My question is will the booster off the 93 300zx work on the Q45? I have a good looking ABS booster on the doner car, and they both seem to be m215 boosters but idk. I'd rather not spend the $150 if I don't have to especially if I'll never probably never buy one again. No cells/dash lights
PS I already swapped the check valve and no help in brake pedal... it's stiff and lacking assist. Side note I notice when pressing the brake pedal idle goes up a lil like there is a vacuum leak. Then when I let go of the pedal rpms go back to normal.
Any help would be appreciated!!!!! Thanks

Probably a bad booster. I know with messing around with some S chassis and Z boosters they all seem to bolt up fine. Im gonna assume any of the ABS boosters should work on your Q.

Hows the 5 speed coming? Im slooooowly piecing mine together as well.

It's going good/ very challenging... stupid stuff is Just a pain in the a**. Ill try and post a write up soon...
Issues I've come across:
1 Dash comes off. Period! Get a nice butter knife.
2 Drivers ac vent gets cut, better to remove because of steering wheel electrical box can fit there. (Moved because of clutch pedal)
3. Starter bolt top. I used a 3/8 stubby ratchet with a duct tape sling. Used a 5lb mallet, and did some reverse superman's... it popped of after I triple thick the duct tape (gorilla tape!)
4. Top trans bolts, get craftsman 1/2in 3 ft extention and barrow a buddies snap on impact gun. Atleast it might loosen that thread locker. Might need a breaker bar, and a "line backer" to pop off. They are TOUGH!!!
5. Starter for 300zx- remove cats on headers for clearance.
6. Might just want to remove headers for ease of ev-ery-thing! There was like 3 times I've said I shoulda removed those.
7. Cut a 2-3in hole for shifter. Placement is closer to driver... hehe!!
8. Cruise control removed or relocate
9. Bottom block bracket holes resize 2-3 sizes larger before installing 300zx trans.
10. Don't be a puss like me... just man up and grind the crank down. Back story: I started grinding with a dremil, then went to a grinding wheel softly. Grinding and checkin, grinding checking, ... ugh! Had a conversation with my bro, and he said "this is not a DIY garage floor project we took on (like were doing). This is a shop with tools project..." basicly s*** or get off the pot. Got back under car started grinding chunks at a time... all of a sudden there was a shim or something that I noticed when grinding. Ground that shim out and the adapter and bearing slipped right on. SWEET!!!
I'll get some pics up soon... I'm right in the middle now. Trans is in. Drive shafts in. Clutch pedal and brake are in. Dash gauge cluster is back in.
To do: new exhaust and x pipe, cat delete, dash back together, trans fluids, clutch reservoir mounted, trans wiring
Which I need help with lost my bookmarked pages of the trans wiring and info. I know it's green wire or something but...

Xcessive Manufacturing: please change your needle bearings to possibly a brass bushing in you VH45/ 5spd swap in these pictures you see proof on why needle bearings are useless holding the output shaft. BEARINGS DISSOLVE,AND DESTROY OUTPUT SHAFT!!!
So I'm updating before I was able to post more on the install. So I got 5 days out of the $280.00 300zx parts car with the trans. We'll I got some parts off that car that was kinda nice at times but not worth 6 months in the garage and the q sat outside... that wasn't good. (Parts car had backdated registration and couldn't be on city streets)
Those 5 days were the DOPEST days I've had in a looooooong time!!! It fast, loud, and laughs will immense. well the front bearing on trans was going and had a noise that sounded like a throwout bearing but the opposite. At idle hear howling/grinding noise. Push in clutch noise dissappears, let out noise comes back.
We'll 5 days from dropping in had a fun night and ping, bang, blamo! I have no gears!!! Drove home from Compton to long Beach in second gear blowing signals because the trans was making lots of noise @ idle... and in the picks youll see what happend.
I know clutch looks HOT!!
Pics following:

NEEDLE BEARING AFTERMATH













WARNING!!!

*** I referred to the needle bearing on output shaft, but I think that's the rear of the trans. I should have said input shaft. (Where the clutch is) there needs to be a bushing, and REPLACE the Xcessive Manufacturing needle bearing, which seems to be useless

How are those xcessive parts working out for you?

Sorry about the late reply. My computer and phone don"t like this site so its been troublesome. Going to keep it short.
Yes the kit is great! Fun strong and semi simple to install. When i can Ill get in more detail. the motor really tough on the trans though... I just beat it to hell!!!! I'm on my second one. HEhe
I'm having clutch issues. Its not holding the power but I'm going to check the slave cylinder. Maybe get a better one.
Insurance is salvaging the car so soon it will be in the garage waiting for time and money to fix and then acquire more $$$. haha

OK so first off the powertrix coilovers are the ish!!!!!!!! Flat out dooooooooooooope!!
As for the swap Its fast and loud. Its a lot of fun to be shifting in this car... eeeeveryone thinks I have an LS swap in it HAHAHahahaha!!! as for the gears little noisy, but i have all the sound dampening out, and have a lightened flywheel. driving around town its supper quiet, for dates and cops, but when a Mustang pulls up next to me it literally scares the life out of women and children... even sets men back like WTF?!?!?!... college kids haha LOL!!!!! Car shows when everyone is reving their engines and acting a fool... I let out a good rev and it gets quiet... v8s even are like wwwwwwhhhhhhhhaaaaaaa??????????? Love this car cant say enough, and again if it wasn't for Powertrix coilovers this wouldn't have been as much fun!! Through the canyons and on the freeway... they are forgiving and resposive, but tight and firm. At all times in full control and predictable. this truely is an amaaazing car to drive, and been told the passengers have fun too (room for 2 dudes and 3 girls lol).
there is a shimmy shake at high speeds... thinking its the drive shaft.
clutch slips, but maybe a new one will solve the problem. I might not have broken it in correctly. BURNOUTS IMMEDIATELY!! "What you wana run my sedan??" haha. needs an ecu tune, but the trans inst throwing any cells... just me beating it to hell! when i say I'm tough I mean hitting redline daily.
ask questions ill try my best to answer them for the most part... the smiles per dollars spent have been VERY VERY good.