5 speed manual hard to shift.

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DevonD
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I have a 96 Maxima SE with the 5 speed manual. When im rolling and slowing down it wont pop into first gear, like 5 mph. It has to be completly stopped to go into first and even then sometimes it wont. I have to put it in second gear, roll forward just a hair and then it will go into first. Also somethimes it when im accelerating and going to shift up to the next gear it misses the gear and just grinds. And no its not me, the clutch is completly to the floor and I try again slower and it does the same thing so i have to use another gear.

I dont know tons about transmissions but im thinking its the syncros? anyone else think it could be something else?


mtcookson
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Could be a few things. Clutch may need some adjusting (just bleed the system first, that could do it). Where is the release point of the clutch? (near the floor, mid way, or at the top of the pedal travel, etc?)

The wrong gear oil can make for poor shifting, but it does sound you're having a different issue. Though most of the time the wrong gear oil is used which will make shifting more difficult and will reduce the life of the synchros. I recommend Redline MT-90 or similar, basically a GL-4 only gear oil with the factory recommended viscosity will do. Absolutely avoid any GL-5 gear oil as that is the stuff that will make shifting more difficult and reduce synchro life.

Lastly it could be the synchros themselves. Nissan has a bad habit of using soft metal synchros (brass I believe) in their transmissions and they tend to have poor life. If they are bad, you would need a replacement or rebuild.

Usually most cars have a hard time getting into first gear while moving, one easy way to get it into first while moving is to double clutch (not to be confused with whatever they said in fast and the furious). Its simply a technique used on synchro-less transmissions that can be used on transmissions with synchros if shifting is difficult. Basically all you do is bring it out of gear, release the clutch, rev the engine to match the speed of the car (this you'll just have to learn and develop as you do it), push the clutch back in, and finally shift into first and go. Mine never shifted all that great so I just kind of developed a habit of doing this on mine. Now I just do it without even thinking about it.

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kzoosho
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mtcookson wrote:Could be a few things. Clutch may need some adjusting (just bleed the system first, that could do it). Where is the release point of the clutch? (near the floor, mid way, or at the top of the pedal travel, etc?)

The wrong gear oil can make for poor shifting, but it does sound you're having a different issue. Though most of the time the wrong gear oil is used which will make shifting more difficult and will reduce the life of the synchros. I recommend Redline MT-90 or similar, basically a GL-4 only gear oil with the factory recommended viscosity will do. Absolutely avoid any GL-5 gear oil as that is the stuff that will make shifting more difficult and reduce synchro life.

Lastly it could be the synchros themselves. Nissan has a bad habit of using soft metal synchros (brass I believe) in their transmissions and they tend to have poor life. If they are bad, you would need a replacement or rebuild.

Usually most cars have a hard time getting into first gear while moving, one easy way to get it into first while moving is to double clutch (not to be confused with whatever they said in fast and the furious). Its simply a technique used on synchro-less transmissions that can be used on transmissions with synchros if shifting is difficult. Basically all you do is bring it out of gear, release the clutch, rev the engine to match the speed of the car (this you'll just have to learn and develop as you do it), push the clutch back in, and finally shift into first and go. Mine never shifted all that great so I just kind of developed a habit of doing this on mine. Now I just do it without even thinking about it.
I thought that the 95-96 5 sp werent syncroed first gears meaning you cant get them into first easy while moving.

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DevonD
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Yeah I have pretty much memorized where to rev it to when im down shifting. It makes for a much smoother ride and is usually what it takes to get it into first. The cluch release point is right at the floor. I think all the upper pedal travel does nothing and its just a small movement at the bottom that gets it. I replaced the slave cylinder 3 months ago and i made sure it was bleed properly.

I dont know when the last time was the Gear oil was changed so maybe i will go get that done! If it is the syncros what needs to be done? pull the whole tranny and rebuild it? Doesnt sound too fun...And what about what kzoosho said? Does the 95-96's even have a syncro for first?

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the converted
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Everything since late 1940's or so has had syncros except for big trucks and things like that. If it was unsynchronized it would just be a whole lot of grinding.

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kzoosho
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the converted wrote:Everything since late 1940's or so has had syncros except for big trucks and things like that. If it was unsynchronized it would just be a whole lot of grinding.
Look up our trannies and youll see what i am talking about. They are different from 97 and up. 95-96 trannys are different

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DevonD
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do you know any sites that have diagrams on our trannys Kzoosho? and how different are they?

Im also thinking that if im having to pull the damn tranny anyway I would love to put a 6 speed in it.. is this do-able on the VQ30 without to much hassle? or do I need the 3.5?
Modified by DevonD at 11:20 PM 6/2/2008

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kzoosho
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If you can find a fsm for the 95-99 max you can get a full parts list. And the 6 sp can be done but it aint cheap.

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the converted
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There definitely is a first gear syncro.

96 Maxima MT manual


mtcookson
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DevonD wrote:The cluch release point is right at the floor.
That sounds like your problem right there. If your clutch released near the floor that means its not opening up as much as it should be which is what is causing your shifting problems.

Go ahead and bleed the system, be sure to bleed the damper as well as a lot of people miss that and that can make a pretty big difference. The damper should have a bleeder valve on it and it should just be a little box with the clutch lines running through it. I believe you bleed the slave cylinder first, then the damper. If that doesn't move the release point off of the floor you'll probably need to adjust your clutch pedal to move the release point at least mid way, but a little closer to the top if possible. This will assure that your pressure plate is open enough for the clutch to spin freely.

I am very confident that you will see an improvement with the shifting after fixing the release point.

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DevonD
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Alright, I will adjust the pedal asap. But the damper.. is that the little aluminum box on the top of the drivers side strut mount? sort of near the air box? because I did it too..

And whats the best way to adjust the clutch pedal? I have my haynes manual here but what do you think?

mtcookson
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I believe that is the damper.

Pretty much the only way is to adjust it via the rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder. There will be a nut that locks the rod into place, loosen that, then you can spin the rod as needed to adjust the pedal. One thing to keep in mind though, with hydraulic systems you should rarely have to adjust the pedal to fix the release point, there's not really anything that can get out of place compared to a cable clutch where the cable can stretch. Unless the pedal has been adjusted for some reason in the past I would think either the master or slave cylinder is acting up if it isn't releasing higher after bleeding. It could even be a bent clutch fork.

If you have someone helping out, have them press the clutch while you're watching the slave cylinder and just make note how far it travels then do the same afterwards. It should at least be a good inch of movement. Since the pedal has to travel so far before the clutch is disengaged, it sounds to me like there is either air in the lines or a leak but usually leaks are known right away so I'd lean towards air. Then of course there's the chance of a bent fork but with a stock clutch I don't find that likely at all.

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DevonD
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I will get it all adjusted and see what happens. But one more tranny issue! its making this noise under load. Either acceleration or using the engine to slow the car down. Just a ticking. I have had suggestions that its the CV axle but the noise speeds up and slows down with gear changes and the CV axle speeds up the whole time. so that cant be it. but let my know what you think..

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DevonD
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nobody's got any theories??

mtcookson
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Sorry for the delay. That's definitely a tough one as it could be one of many things, even an exhaust manifold leak. From what I've seen, usually the CV's only make noise when you're turning, when they're going bad, but a simple check there would be to look at the boots to at least make sure they haven't leaked any grease out.

Does the noise speed up and slow down with the engine or do they speed up and slow down depending on the gear you're in?

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DevonD
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well the cv's were both replaced 25 000 miles ago. they both look brand new. As soon as I press the clutch in the noise stops and starts agian when its out. Rolling in neutral it also doesnt make this noise. Only in gear.And it speeds up while accelerating in 1st then slows down becasue the engine isnt reving as high in 2nd. And the noise speeds up as I accelate in second. So I guess you could say its not following the cv / wheel speed but the engine speed.

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the converted
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Well between the clutch issues and this noise I'd say that it's something to do with the clutch and throw out bearing. How old is the clutch in the car?

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DevonD
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not even 30 000 miles. So not very old at all...

mtcookson
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Alright so the noise goes by engine speed and only happens under a load when accelerating and decelerating... its there's nothing wrong with the clutch/pressure plate then its likely something along the input shaft of the transmission. Being helical cut gears when put under a load (either accel or decel) they with have a lateral force putting a side load on the bearings. It could be possible that one of the bearings is starting to act up when extra pressure is on it. Usually when a bearing is bad there's a constant noise though, so its hard to say.

Generally when a throw out bearing is bad it only makes noise when you press the clutch so that shouldn't be the issue. I suppose it could also be the clutch itself, I have seen some clutch hubs break, which I'm sure could cause noises like that.

Definitely a tough one, I can't think of what it would be for sure.


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