Reserved*******

Hey wassup all. I'm going to be doing a howto/ write up for stereo installs on Z32s. It very easy for me to do this and I couldn't find this on the forum aside from some color codes. I hope it will help others out there who get a little squeamish when it comes to wiring.. so they dont have to pay someone else to do it.

BigTDogg (MA) wrote:
I'd suggest anyone attempting installs of speakers and head units pick up a set of these:



http://www.crutchfield.com/p_126CR3NGL/ ... 5802862185

Part 1: Removing the Bezel

Tools: Philips head screw Driver, Table knife, Electrical Tape.

Taking the bezel off is really easy. Its also really easy to do it wrong and break the plastic.
There are 2 screws hidden by two plastic tabs at the top on either side of the vent.
2 screws in the middle hidden by a plastic strip. The plastic strip has 2 metal clips that hold it in the bezel.
Lastly there are 2 metal clips at the bottom that hold the bottom of the bezel to the dash these will break easy if the bezel is pulled out wrong.

This is for reference. This is what is under the bezel.




There are 2 clips at the bottom. These are the only clips the other 4 mounting spots have screws covered by plastic covers.


1st pop the covers out and unscrew the top two screws.


2nd. This part is tricky. Get a table knife and wrap it with electric tape so you do not scratch anything.





After you have the 4 screws out the only thing holding the bezel in are the two clips at the bottom.

Pull the bezel out strait so the clips pop in a even fashion. Do no teeter totter the bezel out or the clips will break.

BigTDogg (MA) wrote:I'll dig up some pics from my install.

Here's the pinout for the head unit up to 1995

BigTDogg (MA) wrote:

In case anyone was curious about the OEM Bose center channel used in 1990 Z32s, I've posted some pictures and info below:

The pinout goes like this from the top:

Ground (chassis ground)
B+ (battery +)
S+ (speaker out +)
S- (speaker out -)
Com (common for the audio signal, not chassis ground)
In 2 (audio in right)
In 1 (audio in left)

Bose Center Channel album link below:

https://plus.google.com/photos/10564757 ... p6gxeyl1wE

You would need to desolder the wires and remove the hot-melt to repop the board. The driver is 4 ohm, so the amp is compatible with most aftermarket drivers. I'm not sure what input level the amp is expecting, but I would assume 500mv would be about right.

Part 2: Running amp cables from the engine bay to the cabin.

How to properly run amp wires from the battery through the firewall into the cabin.



Its not hard to pull a cables from the engine bay to the cabin in a Z32. In fact Nissan thought of this for you. Nissan made an access hole behind the passenger side front wheel splash guard. The hole is below the wiring harness. There are no wires running through this hole and it is covered by a rubber stopper. It is about 8 inches from the empty access hole to two empty access holes inside the cabin. The two empty access holes are covered by round tape. Both are located behind the plastic cover that is below the dash to the right of the ECU and behind the step plate.

There is no reason to drill holes, there is also no reason to poke a hole in the wiring harness weather boot as I have seen. You do not need to do this in fact its harder.

Tools needed: Flash light, Coat Hanger, Shoe string, Grabber, Needle Nose pliers, Philips head screw driver, electrical tape, table knife “same one you made and wrapped in tape in part 1” 10mm socket wrench.



Step one: Turn on the car, and turn the steering wheel all the way to the right turn off the car.

Step two: Pop the hood and remove the battery.

Step three: unscrew 3 screws in order to be able to bend back the splash guard behind the right front wheel. You dont need to take it off. Once you get the 3 screws out you can fit your hands in easily and have access to the access hole.

Step 4: pop out the rubber stopper of the access hole.

Step 5: open the passenger door. And unscrew the step plate it is 5 screws.

Step 6. pull the carpet back from under the dash on the passenger side under the dash. There is a wooden board under there with 4 screws holding it in. Under the board is the ECU. Unscrew the screws. And remove the board.


Step 7: Unscrew the plastic cover and pop out the plastic pin. Have patience the plastic pin doesn't come out easy but once it does the panel with slide right off. Slide the panel in a downward fashion it comes right off.

Step 8: there are two unused access holes here one is right near the floor " its to the right and below the right bottom hole the wooden board crews into. Both of these holes are behind the plastic cover you remove in step 7. The other hole is just is above this hole. The other hole is horizontal. This hole is vertical. You could pull two amp wires through here and the other one. Plus a ton of other wires. There is plenty of space between the two holes. The other hole looks just like this one its above this one. I suspect the other hole is bigger than this one. Once you finish up pulling the string through you can always tear off the tape on the other hole and daisy chain another string though the other hole.

Step 9: take your screw driver and push a hole through the tape and remove it.

Step 10: Get a coat hanger and bend it so its strait. You want to cut one of the ends of the hanger off or bend it over and over till it snaps and its strait. Now you want to measure about 7-8 inches and make a slight bend in the hanger. Stick the hanger in the hole. You must have patience.

Step 11: take your flash light and bend back the splash guard and shine your flash light in the hole. You should see the coat hanger. If not go back to step 10 and manipulate it over and over till you can shine a flash light in the hole in the other end and see it. This took me some time but it wasn’t hard. If you have a helper I think this wold take about 5 mins or less.

Step 12: Take your grabber and grab the end of the coat hanger and pull it towards the hole so that you can take the needle nose pliers and stick them in the hole and grab the end of the coat hanger. Again this took me some time to get it just right. If you have a helper this will be easy. Grab the coat hanger with the pliers and pull it out. I didn't have anyone to help me so I had to pull hard bending the coat hanger to force/rip it out of the hole.




Step 13: straiten the coat hanger you pulled out and tape the shoe string on the end with some electric tape. You want to wrap it up good like I did in the pic. Don't use too much tape that its all fat but tape it so that it will slide easily but not come undone.

Step 14: go back into the cabin and pull the coat hanger out it will pull the string along with it. Dont pull the string out. We are leaving the string in there. We are going to tie the amp cable to the string and pull it through the holes.


Step 15: To the left of the battery spot where the battery goes. There is a plastic cover that the windshield wiper fluid hose goes through. Unsnap that plastic cover and now you have a strait shot from the access hole up to the battery.




Notes.

BigTDogg (MA) wrote: Second, when you fish the wire through the hole in the fender, I'd suggest placing a rubber grommet around the sheet metal to prevent wire fraying. I believe it's a 1.25" OD grommet, but just bring the cap with you to a hardware store to find the exact size.

[/quote] I recommend that in the process of puling any wires through these holes from either of the inner holes that i mentioned you tape a service string to the wire to pull along with the wire. So a wire + a string...tied to the string... leave the string inside You can tie each end of the service string off and just leave it in there. That way if you want to pull wires again you already have a string in.


Part 3: Speaker brackets.

Rear 6.5 Speaker brackets. Needed to have best sound.

If you have a bose system and want 6.5 speakers in the back. This is what you need. I recommend getting the OEM brackets if you can for the rears. Someone locally sold me these off a parts car. Reason why I recommend the oem brackets is because they will make an air tight seal over your existing enclosures. They are also ported.

The 6.5 brackets screw directly over the bose enclosures. with a gasket between them.




-------------------------------------------------------
How to remove the bose amps from the rear enclosures. Its came to my attention that later bose systems had 6.5 rears powered with bose amps. So this how to covers both the 4.5 REV1 and 6.5 REV2.

The amps are just screwed into the box. But the connecter plug for the wires is snapeded into the bracket. The design is not modular nissan didn't intend for it to be removed.

Tools: Heat gun, flat head screw driver.

Heat the connecter up with the heat gun. This is for demonstration purposes dont perform this operation like you see in the pic that would be dangerous.




Once the connecter is nice and hot stick at flat head screw driver between the bracket and the connector like in the pic and pry it off.


This is what the crappy amp looks like. I chucked mine in the trash.




Part 4: Disassemble rear panels and seat in 300zx 2+2 to install speakers and this goes for coil overs as well.

This is insane you need to know this right now before proceeding the speakers are buried.

tools 10mm socket wrench, 10mm open end wrench, philips head screw driver. table knife wrapped in electric tape.
To give you an idea before you get started you have to remove everything just about in the trunk as well as the back seat to change the speakers out. there are other instructions else where that say you can do this without removing it all I found that to be impossible without breaking something.


1) remove sun shade .

2. Pull edges of carpet up. Remove two plastic twist screws

3. put back seat down.

4. flip carpet over back seat.

5. unbolt the hinges from back seat pull the back rest out.

remove back seat unbolt two bolts one on each side then. (pull up) this is what the cushion is inserted in you have to pull up.

6. remove side panels. on both side of back seat.

7. remove jack.

8. remove center plastic panel between the tail lights.

9. remove spare tire while ur at it lol

10. remove plastic covers behind both sides of wheel well covers "the right side you have to unscrew the trunk light before you can pull that panel off.

11. remove all of the bolts and screws holding the left rear wheel well cover panel that is surrounding the speaker enclosure and the tower strut. slide the panel off forward this is why you had to remove the seat.

12. the last one is tricky the right rear is different than the left. it looks like 2 panels surrounding the speaker enclosure and the tower strut but its not.. The smaller one is riveted to the larger one and it doesn't come off. If you try to force it off it will break and you will be sad.... it comes off with the bigger one but there is a catch. there is a hidden bolt... once you have the wheel whell cover unbolted in every visible place look inside to the left of the speaker; use a open end 10mm wrench to un bolt this hidden bolt.



----------------------------------------

Part 5 removing the Door panel. This is for the passenger side the driver side is exactly the same except instead of removing two screws under the handle, the handle on the drivers side you lift up the carpet inside the handle and unscrew 2 screws there.

Ive seen other instructions on the net. While they helped they if you follow them to the T your going to run into problems.
Tools: Big Philips head, normal Philips head. big flat head with some tape wrapped around it so it doesn't scratch or puncture your door. 14mm socket wrench.

1. Roll the window down half way. outside side of the door on the seat belt pillar pop the black cap. Unbolt the bolt inside with a 14mm. Careful not to drop the bolt inside...I dropped mine inside and tomorrow im going to have to fish it out the door.

2. On the inside pop the plastic cover off the top of the seat belt mount and pull bolt you just unbolted. Be careful that all of the little washers and stuff on that bolt don't come off.

3. take off that plastic panel now and unscrew the 2 screws under there.

4. pry the two rubber/plastic covers out of the inner door handle, this is the big screw driver screws in here. and unscrew them.

5. grab the front of the window control cover. the front is the part facing the windshield. slide it back and gently pry it up from the front side. and disconnect it. one thing to remember is the widow controls are wired in a circuit so if the switch isn't plugged in you cant roll up the window from the drivers side.

6. unscrew the cover where the seat belt goes into the armrest in 3 places.


7. where the seat belt goes into the door unscrew the screws under it. gently pry off the cover.


8. unscrew the screws around the left side of the door panel.

9. this part was the hardest for me... Becasue it didn't come off easy and I was worried I would break something. You have to take the inner door switch cover off. Here is a picture of the actual piece you have to pry out for reference so you know what you are dealing with. Other instructions I found said you can just wiggle it out Bull... You have carefully and gently stick a flat and fat width wise prying tool in and pry it out. I recommend examining the picture I provide and using that as information as to how and to best get the piece off and again be careful at what you are doing.... Do not he man it.

Its snapped into those rectangular holes inside the door. There is no way you can unsnap them from the inside.


10. Last part I read some other instructions that said just pull to unsnap the snaps I advise from doing this. The snaps are glued to the fiber composite door and will tear your door, and then you will have to repair the door panel and glue the snap arms back on.. Not a big deal but the damage could be big or small.

What I recommend you doing is look at the picture I took it shows the location of the snaps pull the panel in those places if it doesn't unsnap easy. Look inside while your pulling the door find the snap then wedge a flat head screw driver between the snap and the metal door and pry the snap loose do this for the 5 snaps.


11. now unless you didn't follow these instructions the door panel should come right off pull out and lift up to lift the top out of the widow seal.

--------------------------------
Drivers side door instructions. Same as the passenger side except 3 differences.
1. pry up carpet inside handle unscrew 2 screws 1 each side.

2. From the rear side the side normally facing the rear of the car. Push towards the front like this --------->
then pry up.

3. unscrew hidden screw.

4. follow passenger side instructions.

What will be covered.






Wiring and best practices.

Proper disassembly on panels.

where to run cables through the firewall,

How best to run wires through the car.

Removal of the Bose System and swapping for speaker brackets.

Using the Hatch Glass Antenna.

Best place to put amps.

etc etc etc... There will be more things to add as I think of them.

Reserved********

Very nice! So your just going to edit the original post when you start posting the pics? I feel like this article might be NICO lanyard worthy..

Ya Im going to post pictures as I go.

This is definitely lanyard worthy. If possible, try to get real good quality pictures, make sure the camera focuses.

Your rocking dude! Keep up the good work!

I agree, send him the lanyard!
Good electrical info with good pictures and explanations is worth it.

updated. with instructions to pull the amp cable through the firewall.

I may be getting ahead in this thread but I have a question to ask about speakers. I have a friend who is a big car audio guy and he mentioned that eventually the Bose speakers will begin to buzz or crackle. He said that if you replaced the Bose speakers with any other type of speakers, they will sound really bad. From what I understand the Bose speakers are built in boxes and when you remove the speaker you also remove the box. If I want to replace my speakers, do you suggest building new boxes for the speakers.. or what would be the best way to accomplish this?

I'll be covering that this week hopefully. Your friend is right, but you might of misunderstood him. You will have to re wire the stereo to get the best sound possible. The bose speakers ave built in amps. The stock stereo doesn't have a built in amp. So if you pulled out the bose enclosures and replaced them with normal speakers. You will either have to have a new head unit with a built in amp. Or you will need to re wire the car and add a 4 channel amp to power the 2 doors and 2 rear speakers.

I plan on replacing the Head unit. Adding 2 amps 1 4 channel amp to power the 4 corners, and another amp to drive a 10 inch sub in mono bridged mode. The stereo will get rewired the old stereo wires will get tied back with tie wraps out of the way. I will use a wireing harness under the dash so I dont have to cut any wires back there. No wires get cut. Just run new wires.

To replace the bose speakers you need speaker brakets, you can either get OEM ones from a non bose model or they sell aftermarket ones on ebay. Also your not going to need enclosures for the corner speakers but you will need to insulate some I think.

BlackWidowZ wrote:I'll be covering that this week hopefully. Your friend is right, but you might of misunderstood him. You will have to re wire the stereo to get the best sound possible. The bose speakers ave built in amps. The stock stereo doesn't have a built in amp. So if you pulled out the bose enclosures and replaced them with normal speakers. You will either have to have a new head unit with a built in amp. Or you will need to re wire the car and add a 4 channel amp to power the 2 doors and 2 rear speakers.

I plan on replacing the Head unit. Adding 2 amps 1 4 channel amp to power the 4 corners, and another amp to drive a 10 inch sub in mono bridged mode. The stereo will get rewired the old stereo wires will get tied back with tie wraps out of the way. I will use a wireing harness under the dash so I dont have to cut any wires back there. No wires get cut. Just run new wires.

To replace the bose speakers you need speaker brakets, you can either get OEM ones from a non bose model or they sell aftermarket ones on <A class=vglnk title="Link added by VigLink" href="http://www.ebay.com/" rel=nofollow target=_blank vglnk_1362895632044="2"><SPAN>ebay</SPAN></A>. Also your not going to need enclosures for the corner speakers but you will need to insulate some I think.

I forgot about the Bose speakers having built in amps, I read about that a while back.
I didn't misunderstand my friend (he didn't mention the "boxes" I spoke about earlier, as a matter of fact he only spoke about the speakers for about 10 seconds ) I was actually mixing what he said with what I thought I read, but I read about it 3 months ago and only remembered vague things. Thanks for clearing it up for me, I won't forget again.

So it sounds just like setting up a stereo system in any other car, this is the only time I've ever seen/heard of car speakers having their own amps, probably a Bose thing. I also now remember reading about the speaker brackets you mentioned.

I'll keep my eye on this thread because eventually I'll want to upgrade my Bose to Focals.

Yeah, most aftermarket options use a 4 channel. My dad's jeep for instance came with infinity audio from the factory, and it has a 4 channel 200W amp under the passenger rear seat.

Looking for a volunteer to help me on this project. Whats needed 2+0 rear panel disassemble info. The 2+2 is different. I had to remove the back seat and the back seat right and left side panels zzz 2+0 is going to be different and probably easier.

It's pretty much the same. You just take off the strut tower covers differently and have to remove the center tray area thing. It's a little easier, but all along the same lines. Main difference is there's less snap clips holding the panels.

I'll dig up some pics from my install.

BTW, the Bose speakers don't crackle, it's the amplifiers in the boxes which fail. The capacitors on the board typically leak (not uncommon after 20 years of an automotive environment).

Looks like the making of a great article, Here's the pinout for the head unit up to 1995

Thanks bigdogg. Ill add the diagram under the stereo bezel part, also have updated pictures of rear 6.5 brackets. I plan on covering the fronts tomorrow.

BlackWidow, great work thus far. Two additions if I may.

I'd suggest anyone attempting installs of speakers and head units pick up a set of these:



http://www.crutchfield.com/p_126CR3NGL/ ... 5802862185

They'll last you a lifetime and they're infinitely valuable to keeping your trim in one piece and scratch free.

Second, when you fish the wire through the hole in the fender, I'd suggest placing a rubber grommet around the sheet metal to prevent wire fraying. I believe it's a 1.25" OD grommet, but just bring the cap with you to a hardware store to find the exact size.

Thanks big, I'll edit the post and add your info to that section. I also just updated the instructions to remove the connectors and amps from the rear speakers. Also included a pic of the bose amp.

Loving this so far ! I just installed my 12inch sub & amp. & Plan on changing the speakers within the next couple of months!

Looking very good man! Keep it up!

I'm watching this thread with great anticipation... I JUST bought my Z today, and the prev owner ran off with his 4channel amp, leaving me with the speakers disconnected...

I was a car stereo nut in high school, so I can easily fix it, but the information in this thread about the existing holes and where to route wires is fantastic! I can't wait to read more!!

Ordering Infinity Reference 6032si 6.5-Inch, Shallow Mount for the rear enclosures. They should fit.

http://uk.infinitysystems.com/tl_files/ ... uto,0,1188

I havent taken the doors apart yet so I have to get back to you but the rears based off my rough measuments require some sort of shallow mount speaker. also it has to be a 6.5 if it says will also fit 6 and 3/4s thats not going to work. the mounting depth is less than 2 inches at the tightest part or the rear. Its going to depend on how big the MAGNETS are if a speaker will fit.

I'm going to try and get one of the doors apart today and finish up the instructions for the rear disassemble of a 2+2 today.

This is the difference between between my old speakers and what the new 6.5 are size.


6.5 boxes installed.

Im starting to get kinda sloppy with my pictures. Ill add more detail to the door disassemble process I just fell like a lot of it is pretty self explanatory besides a few things that are not obvious.

Oh yeah for the fronts like BigDogg is using use the MDF brakets. I have some used ones im touching up a little.

you just need shallow mount for the rears. even if u have a mdf bracket rigged to the rear box its going to need shallow mount. fronts not an issue but i will put all the measurements up tomorrow so people know what is going to fit and whats not.

Focals are good you get what you pay for but i bet you can find some other components for less that sound great.

BlackWidowZ wrote:you just need shallow mount for the rears. even if u have a mdf bracket rigged to the rear box its going to need shallow mount. fronts not an issue but i will put all the measurements up tomorrow so people know what is going to fit and whats not.

Focals are good you get what you pay for but i bet you can find some other components for less that sound great.

What are good car speakers these days? Infinity, Alpine, Focal, JBL, JL Audio, Kenwood, Rockford, Polk? Are MB Quart still nice?

What sounds as good as Focals but are cheaper?

Do you think the MB Quart PVL 216's would fit in the rear?

maybe if you build out the top of the bracket so you have more mounting depth. IMO 2 1/4 max depth and that's pushing it if you build out a lil. you might be able to use a 6 3/4 speaker if you use a mdf braket over the rear box somhow. If you could get the metal brakets your problems are solved. I hear they are not only expensive but rare. I believe the metal brackets are oval not sure on size but they are not 6.5s they are more like 6/9s 6x9s give bad acoustics tbh so your best rout is to use a mdf wood ontop of the bos enclusure and take a saw to the enclosure then maybe it will work for the speakers that you want to use,

6.5 is going to be it for the oem one though unless you want to use a 4 inch speaker. There is only so much room to play with if you want to be able to put the rear wheel well panels back on. The problem is the odd shape of the box. Its deep on one end and the opposite end its shallow. It sits on top off the wheel well. So as the top it is shallow and the bottom its not. you might just be able to murder the box and hack it all up then you can fit whatever you want in there.

Another problem you are going to have is some speakers don't like ported boxes. So going to have to close the port. or cut open the box and use something to make the plastic stiff so it wont vibrate. if you cut open that box so you can use some other kind of speaker than what it was intended for you will have to dynamat all of the plastic around there and insulate it.

The ported boxes can be re used with the right speaker but most speakers are not going to work in the oem box. Im going to do some how work and see if i can find anything thats going to sound right,

Im beginning to think the only kind of speaker that can go back in one of these boxes is a 1 way speaker. forget a 2 way the tweeters will not like the ported box at all. The advantages of the ported box though if you can find a speaker that will sound correctly with the way they are tuned will be more bass from a mid range speaker that doesn't normally have much base.


If you can find a component speaker which driver will like the way that box is ported and mount the tweeter else where it will sound fantastic.

If and its a big if you can find a speaker that will like the way that box is tuned and you can insulate the box and the surrounding panels its going to sound better than a free air speaker back there.

Im going to try filing the box with water to measure the cubic space that is inside and measure the diameter of the port and find a component speaker or 1 way speaker that will like that box.

you see how it is very shallow at the top of the wheel well then it curves down and gets larger.


you see how much room there is to build out when the panel is on maybe 1/4 inch
big maybe



All of focals speakers are great. All the other manufactures don't compete with focal directly. Focal doesn't cater to the lowend spectrum of speakers so they have a great reputation of being the best. But some of those other manufactures make high end speakers as well, it just unlike focal they make low end speakers. So i would shop around and look at the specs of products and see if you can find something that looks decent for a more affordable price. my 2 cents.

what im going to do is fill the box with poly fill then put a 1 way speaker in there.

BlackWidowZ wrote:maybe if you build out the top of the bracket so you have more mounting depth. IMO 2 1/4 max depth and that's pushing it if you build out a lil. you might be able to use a 6 3/4 speaker if you use a mdf braket over the rear box somhow. If you could get the metal brakets your problems are solved. I hear they are not only expensive but rare. I believe the metal brackets are oval not sure on size but they are not 6.5s they are more like 6/9s 6x9s give bad acoustics tbh so your best rout is to use a mdf wood ontop of the bos enclusure and take a saw to the enclosure then maybe it will work for the speakers that you want to use,

Front brackets: http://czp.us/Cart/description.php?II=3 ... 228.80.226

Rear brackets: http://czp.us/Cart/description.php?II=3 ... 228.80.226

The rear brackets are for a 4x6 driver, and they're not sealed, so they'd be operating in free air. That's fine for a rear fill channel, something between 500Hz and 5kHz, but you won't get any low end from there. The 91+ factory boxes use the 4" tri-lobe driver, with 3 mounting points. There are no aftermarket companies who make a 4" tri-lobe, to the best of my knowledge. A guy by the name of Zmax modifies Bose enclosures to fit 4" drivers, his website can be found here. Remember, only 1990 Bose systems used the 6.5" rear boxes, 91+ went to 4" all around.

The front brackets offer the best acoustic solution to mounting 6.5" up front. They will not fit any oversized 6.5" or 6.75" drivers, nor can they be easily modified to do so. This is why I went with the MDF panel in my install.

BlackWidowZ wrote:The ported boxes can be re used with the right speaker but most speakers are not going to work in the oem box. Im going to do some how work and see if i can find anything that's going to sound right, I'm beginning to think the only kind of speaker that can go back in one of these boxes is a 1 way speaker. forget a 2 way the tweeters will not like the ported box at all. The advantages of the ported box though if you can find a speaker that will sound correctly with the way they are tuned will be more bass from a mid range speaker that doesn't normally have much base.

Coaxial vs midbass (one way) doesn't matter at all. The only part of the speaker system affected by the port is the midbass driver or woofer. Even in a home cabinet, unless the midrange is open back and sharing the same volume as the woofer (terrible design practice) then it would have no effect on it.

BlackWidowZ wrote:If and its a big if you can find a speaker that will like the way that box is tuned and you can insulate the box and the surrounding panels its going to sound better than a free air speaker back there. Im going to try filing the box with water to measure the cubic space that is inside and measure the diameter of the port and find a component speaker or 1 way speaker that will like that box.

Excellent idea! You'll also need diameter and port length to find out if the driver will like it. To get really particular, you'll need to subtract the volume of the driver once it's installed from your volume calculations.

BlackWidowZ wrote:you see how much room there is to build out when the panel is on maybe 1/4 inch big maybe

The bigger issue here is if you have a high excursion driver in there, it will contact the trim piece, and sound terrible (not to mention risk damage to the driver). Slotting or ovalizing the mounting holes to drop the enclosure down a bit on the wheel well is your only recourse, other than cutting the trim panel (not advised).

As far as depth of the 2+0 6.5" rear boxes, I don't know the max depth, but it also depends on the DIAMETER of the driver. Below are the specs for my rear enclosure midbass drivers, and they fit perfectly.



Shown here:



and ready for install:

Valdis wrote:The Infinities will be a nice upgrade. I'm looking at Focals myself, but man they are expensive.. lol
Do you need shallow mount speakers for the doors also or just the rear?

Focal Polyglass components fit just fine up front with 1/2" MDF spacers, what series Focals are you looking at?



Neither front nor rear require anything I'd consider shallow mount, see above.

BlackWidowZ wrote:Oh yeah for the fronts like BigTDogg is using use the MDF brakets. I have some used ones im touching up a little.

I covered mine in 4-5 coats of Plastidip spray to prevent the sponge type effect that MDF has been known for in moist environments.



You'll also need to get some closed cell foam weather stripping to seal up gaps between the door and the bracket. There are curves in the door the MDF doesn't mount flush to.

All of my photos of my system can be found here: https://plus.google.com/photos/10564757 ... psqA4peaDA

and the original thread on Nico is here (links are dead, but they link to pictures in the above album): post5819437.html

door disassemble instructions are done. All of the disassemble information is up as far as the stereo bezel and 4 default speaker locations are concerned. This will be the end of the disassemble updates.

Last thing I will be updating are specific information regarding how to mount tweeters inside the door vent. So you can have tweeters upfront without cutting holes in your door panel. And how to snake wires to the doors. I will update specific information on what size the holes are and what I think will fit and work and what I dont think will. Besides that its just like installing another stereo system and you are on your own on that. I will note in this thread when Im done and biggdogg if you can help me edit the thread or any other admin wants to proof read what is put and see if it can be said or cleaned up better help me.

Nice work, you're doing a great job editing. When you're all ready, let me know and I'll do more cleaning up