7/22/12: You guys are not going to believe this, but I have resolved my stalling issue. I changed the Cam Sensor! After I had my car towed home, it took me 5 minutes to determine it was the cam sensor. When I picked up my car, the technician told me the short in the wire harness was a wire that was blue with a white stripe. I checked all the wires going to the Intake Variable timing sensor, crank sensor and cam sensor. I found the cam sensor had the same wire color coding. I really believe that the dealer never even changed this sensor. I sure am glad I didn't spend $6000 for a $25 part.


6/4/12 Update: The dealer informed me that they replaced two other wire harness connectors per the Infiniti Engineer's recommendation, but this did not resolve the problem. In fact, they said the problem has gotten worse and now the car will not stay running. The dealer now claims that there is a short in the wire harness somewhere and they want to replace the entire thing. It's $1200 for the harness and $2600 for labor. Not going to do this either. I still think they don't know what's going on, so I think it's time to get my car back and I will try a few things myself.

5/28/12 Update: Well, after the dealer installed a new (used) ECM, they car is still stalling. They idled the car for over an hour and no issues, since previously, after 10 minutes of running, the car would stall. As soon as they drive it around the block, it stalled. They though maybe the car was losing fuel pressure, but they claim they have checked it and the fuel pressure is good. The dealer is bringing in another specialist to help out.

5/7/12 Update: So after the dealer has had my car for almost 2 months now, they just informed me that the ECM is bad and they want $1900 for a new one. I searched the internet and found some used ones for $150-$200. Is the ECM a simple plug and play? I really dont want to pay $1900 right now.

-Chris


I am having some issues with my 2003 M45 stalling. Here is whats happened over the last 4 weeks:

-Stalled on the freeway. Had the car towed to the dealership. They ran the codes, and told me it was the cam and crank sensors. New sensors installed.
- Picked up car and then it stalled again on the freeway. Car towed to dealership. They told me the battery was dead. New battery installed.
- Picked up car and then it stalled again on the freeway. Car towed to dealership. They ran the codes and got the cam and crank sensor codes again. They claim they installed the wrong parts the first time. So, they installed the "right" cam and crank sensors. The tech drove the car for 60 plus miles with no issues.
- Picked up car and it stalled again just 15 miles from the dealership. Car towed to dealership. They ran the codes. Cam and crank sensor code again. They brought in an Infiniti Engineer, and he told them to change the electrical connectors for the sensors. New connectors installed and then the tech drove the car for another 60 miles with no issues.
- Picked up car and noticed that the car was pinging when cold. The pinging went away as the car got to temp. Car stalled again 10 miles from dealership. This time the tech came and got the car. Cam and crank sensor code yet again.

I am getting the feeling that the dealership has no clue on whats going on. Has anyone else experienced this? What was the final fix? Any other possible ideas on what could be wrong?

Hi Chris - Definitely a frustrating one. I've been reading up on it to see if I can find anything, but can't spend too much time on it tonight... I'd recommend poring over the FSM troubleshooting section and see what the manual recommends (as far as diagnostics). Could be as simple as a bad ground connection.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2003/

Check sections EC-307 and EC-315, as well as GI-10.

Hopefully some of our other people will chime in soon as well.

You should ask which cam/crank sensors where changed.
My mechanic forgot one. He told me one was clearly in front of the car, but was in an unexpected location.

Good luck!

AZhitman wrote:Hi Chris - Definitely a frustrating one. I've been reading up on it to see if I can find anything, but can't spend too much time on it tonight... I'd recommend poring over the FSM troubleshooting section and see what the manual recommends (as far as diagnostics). Could be as simple as a bad ground connection.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2003/

Check sections EC-307 and EC-315, as well as GI-10.

Hopefully some of our other people will chime in soon as well.

Good call- when I had the crank sensor issue I remember the FSM did recommend checking/cleaning the ground connections. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of incredibly hard-to-diagnose issues.

Also maybe find out where they send these techs to learn to drive, they must know some secrets to preventing CELs, stalls, rough idle, brake noise, etc. etc.

Last week, I had the same problem, p 0340. My local mechanic replaced 2 sensors on the driver's side. I have driven the car for 3 days with no problems. I hope the problem don't come back....

So, how many camshaft sensors are there? I only see one on the front of the engine on the drivers side per the EM-35 figure.

I noticed per EM-25 figure that there is only one crankshaft sensor. Do you have to drop the oil pan to change out this senor? If so, the dealership never mentioned doing this.

I was very concerned with the tech driving it back to the dealership, but he said not to worry, that he had "a way" to get it back. I wonder if he had to put the car in limp mode or something.

No word yet from the dealership on their next attempt, but I will ask them which and how many sensors they changed.

chrislockett wrote:So, how many camshaft sensors are there? I only see one on the front of the engine on the drivers side per the EM-35 figure.

I noticed per EM-25 figure that there is only one crankshaft sensor. Do you have to drop the oil pan to change out this senor? If so, the dealership never mentioned doing this.

I could've sworn there were two camshaft sensors, but only see reference to one in the FSM. Sorry, have no first-hand experience with that one.

The crankshaft sensor can be changed pretty easily, no oil pan drop required. Just may have to jack up and get under the right side to reach it. May also have to drop the plastic engine cover underneath.

I have driven the car 150 miles after the sensors were replaced. No issues. Mechanic did tell me that he cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve as well. I did have to do the relearning for the idle after the throttle body cleaning. He returned to me 2 sensors that he replaced. They look different from each other. Total charge $190./00 including the parts from autozone, duralast sensors.

See update.

Read the update. Thanks.

It sounds like they're out of possible solutions and want to try something else to shotgun the problem.

If they gave an explanation such as "when it stalls, we see a signal drop from the ECU" or "we've seen this happen in 20 (or inseret number here) cases and this is what solved it", I might be willing to go along.

However, no other info besides "replacing the ECU is next" is just not enough data to drop 2K into parts & labor for what they "think" might be wrong.

The dealer informed me that after 10 minutes of the car running, it stalls and determined that the ECU was not getting power. They wait another 10 minutes, the car starts right up, then it stalls again 10 minutes later. Sounds like a component on the circuit board might short out or goes open when it gets hot. When I told then I wasn't going to pay the $1900 for a new ECU and I was going to buy a used one, they offered to swap the ECU's, flash the used one, drive it for awhile to confirm everything is ok all for free. I thought this was pretty cool of them.

Interesting...In my limited experience, it does sound heat related but it also sounds like a capacitor is bad.

I wonder (if they provide you with the old one) can you open it up and look over the capacitors to see if any have swelled or leaked. If so, it would be great to share a pic. A novice then might be able to make the repairs for a few dollars.

Yes, they gave me the old one. I will see if I can open it up and take some pics of any bad capacitors.

There's probably going to be some anti-vibration gel or epoxy on the PCBs surrounding everything, so don't be afraid to hack into it.

I had this same problem on a long trip from Dallas to San Antonio. I played the game with the p0340 code trying to determine which sensor is which, and after trying to fix the problem myself and then taking it to the dealer, we put our heads together and came up with the issue.

The P0340 code pops for a variety of sensors. At least by our count, there are (4) sensors that will pop the code. When you look at the service manual versus the master tech service manual, there are vague differences between the naming which makes this whole process a royal pain. Only after the Master Tech pulled a recall for late-model Y34s was he able to figure out which sensors to replace.

If you get a P0340 code, it could be a variety of items:
(1) The Crankshaft Position Sensor. Its located next to the A/T pan. In the service manual, its on page EM-24 Part #3.
(2) Intake Valve Timing Position Sensor - Bank 1. Located Driver side, front of engine towards the grille with a wire harness coming out of it. Very Easy to Access. It is part number 12 on page EM-37 diagram in the Service Manual.
(3) Intake Valve Timing Position Sensor - Bank 2. Located Passenger side, front of engine towards the grille with a wire harness coming out of it. Very Easy to Access. It is part number 9 on page EM-37 diagram in the Service Manual.
(4) Camshaft Position Sensor. Located passenger side of engine below the Intake Valve timing sensor. It is very easy to miss. It is part number 25 on EM-37 in the service manual.

For me, it was (4) that was the culprit. What makes it tricky is that when you look up the part in the service manual, the intake valve timing sensors are labeled as camshaft position sensors... So you think you have two (left and right bank). I was really confused by the whole thing, because I changed 3 of the four sensors at first and still was getting a code and engine stalls. Only after changing all four sensors did it fix the problem.

Hopefully thats helpful!

See update # 2.

Good info on a total of 4 sensors that will pop the code. I will inform the dealer on the Intake Valve Timing Position sensor, since they haven't mentioned this one yet.

See update # 3.

I have had similiar issues with my 1991 FORD SHO. One time it was the crank sensor. The other time it was the mass air flow sensor. Good luck. It just makes me wonder if these dealers are going for the right fix or just don't know poop. Or are they going for the money fixes?

See Update #4. Stalling issue fixed!

Glad you got this fixed - question, my Service Engine Soon light was on for a couple months, assumed it was related to the gas gauge issue, which I had fixed about 2 months ago. Maybe a week after that the SES light came back on, stayed on for a week, then went off for a week... then came back on. Lo and behold about a week ago I drove my car to work (10 miles, back roads, 60 mph never over 2500 rpm) and when I went to grab lunch around noon (car sat for ~ 4 hours) it wouldn't turn over. Starter was kicking in, but she just wouldn't fire. Had it towed to a local shop, said it was the cam position sensor. Replaced it same day, $145. Of course, not a week later, SES is back on, and now the car is idling pretty rough. Think this is the same issue? Is there anything specific I should ask the tech to look at or look for when it inevitably heads back there?

Replaced sensor with OEM part or aftermarket?

I replaced the sensor with an aftermarket one.

Just wanted to say thanx for the info my 2004 m45 w 178k mls developed this same problem about 3 months ago dealer claimed I had poor oil maintinence and sludge in my engine they further claim that it must have skipped a tooth causing engine to shut down after about 20-30 mins of driving my local mech said no way it runs great just not for Long he couldn't find the problem either I was just about to quit on this car gladd I look here again Infiniti claimed the cam sensors were good they were changed in nov w 165k just under 12k later this problem arose Infiniti claimed that they are still god tested them diagnostic test but never ever checked the third sensor but swore on a stack of bibles that I needed 3k worth of work wtf ! The repair Manuel's make no mention of the third sensor which seems to have cure my ride my mech threw his hands up as his Manuel's dont mention the 3rd sensor either $30 bucks autozone and she runs again so far just wanted to say thanx again perhaps posts like these should be in a separate area as most other posts are performance related brakes suspension computer mods etc. without this post my car was going to get crushed instead of running till 200kplus I'm at 179 and she still hauls a** again thanx verry helpful just wish it was easier to find

Im going to bump this b**** from the dead.

I am currently getting my butt kicked by this same issue, mine started 2 years ago with my car just dying after a start, happened about once a month, but always started right up after that. A month ago it started occurring a hell of a lot more frequently. Last week it refused to start for about half an hour, then it started stalling, and jerking while I was driving, finally it threw a code earlier this week. P0340. So I bought a sensor and becau the code said it was for bank 1, I assumed it was for the ivts, the problem got way worst today and I almost crashed on the freeway. Its now sitting in a Walgreens parking lot. But after reading this thread I am almost certain the ivts is good and its the cam sensor, so i am going to throw the new sensor in the cmps spot and put the old ivts back in.

I'll update this thread if it fixed or did not. I want to thank the op for following through with the thread. Infiniti should rectify this its obvious its becoming a dangerous issue and thousands of us are going to have it (like the gas gauge recall).

Glad my posts are continuing to help others out. I believe the dealers are using old stock Cam sensors which are defective, so just don't use any from them.

It ended up being sensor #4 (cam position sensor). This thread helped me realize that. I replaced the stupid variable sensor at first, ended up putting the stock one back in and the new one below that. Fired right up and runs and idles amazing!

Seriously thanks again chris, saved me a bunch of time and potentially a lot of money. : ) If you ever make it to Utah I got a beer for you sir.

You're welcome! Glad to hear your car is fixed.

I am having the same issue of stalling on my 2003 M45. I thought it might have been related to the fuel meter recall but I've just had the gotten that replaced and its seems worse than it was. I stalled 3 times in traffice the first day I had it back. The tech informed me that I still need a fuel level sending unit which was not included in the fuel meter recall. He said the fuel gauge will not register correctly without it. That was an estimated $597.00 repair with parts and labor.

I'm going to check on the cam sensor and if it doesn't work, I'm heading for the Lexus dealership.

So I have the same problem, it has to be electrical but I grabbed an OBD II scanner, gave me the sensors, changed them, still stalls out.

This all happened after I left my phone to charge in the car (Verizon phone charger, similar happened to two people I know but only damaged the outlets) overnight with the ignition set to 2nd position. I meant to leave it for a few minutes but fell asleep. Woke up to the car not starting, jumpped it with auto club for over 30 minutes, no luck. Dude drove off, then tried it 10 minutes late and it started.

I am not a tech but I have road raced for 18 years with either nissans or toyotas and have turbo'd civics so I do no a little but no clue about this.

I have replaces the fuses and relays (don't want to start replacing computers on a car worth less than them), the crank and timing sensors (25 bucks at pepboys and was the initial code). The car will go almost exactly 9 miles on a cold start and 3.2ish warm then its off to the side of the road, unplug the battery, smoke 1 cigarette (for timing purposes only of course, oddly enough, any less time and it won't reset), then hop back in and go another 3.2 miles. I have no clue. Last the dealer said was leave it for a few weeks (at who knows what cost).

Any pointers to a ground? Last I left it after the 3600 I am already at with dealers (and about 600 at pepboys) was an alternator which I seriously doubt. Every suggestion still gives the exact same result, nothing has even helped. One odd thing, I did get a VDC warning initially which went away with changing the fuses but never had an effect other than the light.

Any pointers on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated!

I concur with the fix. This worked on my 2006 M-45. I did it myself it was very easy and the part only cost 28.00.