2000 Pathfinder - No Start

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
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bgruhn76
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Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder SE Ltd 2WD - Black
Location: Clearwater, FL
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So she has been starting fine. I was troubleshooting TPS issue. Ordered new one. By the time I got around to installing it, the battery died. I charged it up. Installed TPS. Everything is getting power. She won't fire. Like maybe the security system is cutting ignition? Starter won't even engage. Checked relays, fuses, etc. I'd like to get this resolved so I can dial in the new TPS, and test out my new lift kit and wheel spacers. Please help.

2000 3.3L - auto - 2WD - 182K miles SE Ltd.


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bgruhn76
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So here's everything I have done thus far....to no avail.

Checked starter - PASS
Replaced battery - OPTIMA RED TOP
Checked all fuses - PASS
Reset Alarm & Remotes - DONE

What else am I missing? All accessories work fine. No blown fuses. Brand new battery. Starter checked out like new at the store. This really seems to be security system related, but I'm at a loss. ANY help is appreciated here. She was fine when parked a month ago. I'm in FL, so not weather related. I can hear a click inside the dash when i try to start, but starter never kicks over. Immobilizer apparently cuts fuel, not ignition, so that's ruled out. It's a factory Nissan alarm. Nothing fancy.

HELP!!!

4xq
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When you turn your key to the on position, make sure the check engine light comes on - this tells you the ECM is powered up.

The security system LED should flash with the key in the accessory or off position. When you turn the key to the on position, the LED should go out. This means the system recognized your key, and turned off the immobilizer system.

If the LED is solid red it is either because your key is not recognized, or because you tried too often to start the vehicle with something keeping it from starting, and the system went into lockout.

To reset the system use the lockout reset procedure on page EL-302. If successful, the LED will now be off when you turn the key to the on position.

However, I think the starter will engage when you try to start in lockout mode, so if your starter is not engaging at all, you need to troubleshoot the starter circuit. You should hear a click from the starter solenoid when you turn the key to start if everything electrical is working up to the starter.

Try starting in neutral to see if the park neutral switch is giving you a problem. The wiring diagram for the starter circuit is at SC-9 .

Hope that helps!

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bgruhn76
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Wow, that gives me some things to try! The security LED flashes when key out or in. All idiot lights come on when key is on...but didn't think to look for CEL. I will for sure.
Doesn't start in Neutral either. I hear no noise/clicking outside when trying to start. That's what led me to think a security issue somehow. It has been fine for the 3 years I have had it. Weirdness!

Thanks, I will try these things when I get home.

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rgk
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If all else fails, check for trouble codes.

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bgruhn76
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Throwing zero codes :-(

Hawairish
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It will attempt to start in lockout mode, but won't send fuel (determined earlier this year when I changed a key...it was apparently very sensitive to the chip location in the key housing).

I'd pull the ignition switch and probe it for continuity across circuits, and visually inspect it for any solder cracks or irregularities (dirt, melting, burn marks). The switch can be removed from the vehicle with a Phillips and bench tested pretty easily.

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bgruhn76
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Not a fuel issue. Nothing even happens when you turn key to Start position.

Hawairish
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bgruhn76 wrote:Not a fuel issue. Nothing even happens when you turn key to Start position.
That's why I suggest testing the ignition switch. You can actually jump the contacts on the harness to test the starter.

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bgruhn76
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Ok. I'm going to test some relays before I try that. It was working fine until the battery died on me. Just seems very security system related to me. But who knows.

4xq
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Got her up and running?

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bgruhn76
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Not yet. Ordered some relays and fuses. Didn't have a chance to mess with her this weekend. Hopefully this weekend.

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bgruhn76
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Checked all relays. Put starter back in. Replaced the plug on the starter wire. New Optima Red top in. New battery terminals on. Security light flashes when off. Goes off when I try to start. CEL stays on with key on, but it has been on for years due to knock sensor code. Security system arms and disarms with remote. Horn honks. Lights flash. All windows and locks work. All fuses are good. I'm at a loss. Anyone local to me in Clearwater area that wouldn't mind swinging by and helping me out? I need this thing running ASAP.

Hawairish
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Man, I'd love to help...but am no where near FL.

Ignore the alarm/security, ECU, and electronics stuff. Those are all secondary systems. Since the starter isn't engaging, the focus should be on the starting system.

If you haven't already, take a look at the Starting and Charging chapter of your FSM:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ ... der/sc.pdf

On SC-7, you should be able to probe every point it describes under the circumstances it describes. If any of those conditions aren't true, there's your problem.

The wiring diagram on SC-9 is where I'd personally be looking, checking the following first:
  • Is the 40A fusible link still intact? (If you can put the truck to ON, this is fine)
  • Is there continuity between pins 1 and 5 on the ignition switch when the switch is turned to START? (Tested?)
  • Is the 10A fuse in position 18 intact? (This seems OK...confirmed?)
  • Does the Park/Neutral relay click when put into park or neutral? (Tested?)
As you can see in the diagram, there are only three things between the battery and the starter, so those are the items I'd be focusing on first.

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bgruhn76
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Ok had some time to mess with it today finally.

I replaced the 40A fuse - was ok just corroded looking
10A fuse at #18 is fine
I have not removed the ignition switch yet - that is next.
I pulled IGN relay from inside fuse box and swapped with blower relay (since AC works)
Where is the park/neutral relay located? I removed the console to get a look at the plugs and wiring. All seems fine.
I hear clicking inside the fuse box under the dash when i try to start truck. No noses outside the truck.
I tried other keys also. Security light flashes when off, but not illuminated when in On position. (normal i think)

I even unhooked my new horns and plugged OEM back in. Just in case it was an ohm/security issue. Same thing.
New horns hooked back up. Horns work, windows work, all lights and dash works, locks and windows work, alarm arms and disarms with horn and lights.

Same clicking (one click per try) inside fuse box left of steering column)

Help!!!

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bgruhn76
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Testing ignition....is this right?

Image
Testing volts


Image
key off


Image
key start

Hawairish
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You should only have to put the positive probe in the socket with the black/yellow wire, and the negative probe to some vehicle ground...but if you're getting a momentary voltage reading when you turn to and hold at Start, and it ceases when the key returns to On, then that might suffice, but I can't tell which wires you're probing in the pic to be sure.

But if you do get voltage, there on Start, that's good. We can rule out the ignition switch, and then work down the chain.

The Park/Neutral relay is in the engine bay, in the relay box on the passenger side. According to this pic below, it might be labeled as "N*P" next to the Fuel Pump relay:

Image

Swapping the relay with a similar-colored relay is a valid test (as long as that component works, of course).

The final test is probing the black/pink line going to the starter. If all things check out and you don't have 12V on Start there, then time to trace that wire back to the NP relay. The starter is grounded to the engine, so all you have to do is ground your voltmeter on the chassis. Of course, the scary part of this test is that you'll be under the vehicle and someone will have to turn the key. I'd recommend disconnecting the starter wire and probing just the wire.

If you have power, then it might be your starter, though you noted you checked your starter already...how did you test that?

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bgruhn76
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Ok I will check those relays today.

I removed starter and took to OReilly. It spun up perfectly. All tests passed.

Problem now exists, I'm doing all of this solo. Which is why it's taking so long.

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bgruhn76
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I have to work on this on the weekends. Now with the time change, it's dark when I leave work. lol

Will post results as I test. Anyone local to me? I'll buy the beer!

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bgruhn76
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She lives!

Ended up tracing the starter signal wire through the harness. Something happened inside the harness somewhere or something...if I jumped the signal 12V wire to the battery, it kicked over. So...since I'm pretty much going to have this thing until it dies, I bypassed it, ran new wires, and put in push button for starter. Seems better. Also, the new Optima red top has helped my knock sensor CEL code. My O/D light flashes when I start it up though...will count number of flashes later to see what code that is. Also, occasionally, the Security LED on the dash stays lit while driving...but not always.

But...she runs! She steers a little different with the 1.25" spacers. She tracks straight after the 2" lift kit also. Now...to fit the tail light guards (they are a PITA)

Thanks for all the input.

Hawairish
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Sounds like gremlins. Glad it's up and running.

coohwip
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Hawairish wrote:Man, I'd love to help...but am no where near FL.

On SC-7, you should be able to probe every point it describes under the circumstances it describes. If any of those conditions aren't true, there's your problem.

The wiring diagram on SC-9 is where I'd personally be looking, checking the following first:
  • Is the 40A fusible link still intact? (If you can put the truck to ON, this is fine)
  • Is there continuity between pins 1 and 5 on the ignition switch when the switch is turned to START? (Tested?)
  • Is the 10A fuse in position 18 intact? (This seems OK...confirmed?)
  • Does the Park/Neutral relay click when put into park or neutral? (Tested?)
As you can see in the diagram, there are only three things between the battery and the starter, so those are the items I'd be focusing on first.


I'm having a similar issue and was curious what you meant about the 40A fusible link being fine if you can put the truck to ON. Are you saying if you turn the key to the ON position and receive power to the accessories/dash that the fuse must be intact?

Hawairish
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It's been a while since I've thought about it, but yes, that should be accurate.

angar4ik
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coohwip, I had some start problems.

can you try to start it when shift selector is in N position?


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