I recently drove my 1999 Infiniti I30 to the grocery store and it would not start when I went to leave. The tow truck guys tried to jump it and it would not start. I had it towed back to my house. I took the battery to a auto parts store and had it checked. They said the battery was good. I then suspected that the starter was bad and I took it out (what a tough place to get to!) and had it checked by auto parts store and it was fine.

Now, I am running out of ideas. When I attempt to start it, it does a click when I turn the key (that is it). My wife mentioned that when she started it one time, it would kind of struggle to start. I would like to know what others things to check (before I send it to a mechanic).

What about the alternator? Is there a sort somewhere?

Ensure battery connections are clean and tight. Check battery voltage is 12.5VDC or more with engine off. If not, the battery is weak and needs recharging or replacement.

With the engine running, the alternator charging voltage must be >13.8VDC (spec is 14.1 to 14.7VDC). If the charging voltage is low or fluctuating, the alternator is failing (problem with internal diodes or voltage regulator).

An old starter may be 'sticky' due to accumulation of gunk in the front (mechanical side) and at the back (motor-stator side). I have rebuilt starters by just cleaning the internal mechanism. A sticky starter may not fully engage, turns slowly and/or remains engaged after engine has started. A shop test may not necessarily reveal internal problem (gunk) with the starter since there is no load (engine) to it. If you have electro-mechanical aptitude, you can dis-assemble the starter (just put alignment marks for ease of assembly). But before doing that, make sure that you are getting battery voltage to the single wire connector to the starter solenoid during starting (disconnect it, connect a voltmeter and have someone start the car and measure the voltage). If Ok, that means the starter relay and interlock are satisfied. So you can go ahead and disassemble the starter - use a liberal amount of carb cleaner or engine de-greaser to clean the front side - planertry and pinion gears then lubricate with white lithium grease. For the motor-stator, use contact cleaner (not carb cleaner/degreaser) on the rotor and stator. Ensure the motor-stator are totally clean. Re-assemble and check if the starter solenoid engages. Then you can also check (using battery and jumper wires) the rotation of the starter (use the starter frame as the ground). Secure the starter during testing as it can 'jump' during testing).

I know this sounds crazy but try locking and unlocking the drivers door with the key. My daughters car did this. Some how the alarm was activated (which prevents the starter motor from turning) eventhough it was not sounding the horn of flashing the lights.

So to summarize, I have had the battery checked and also had the starter checked (although it was without a load).

I have reisitance tested the positive battery cable and found that it does not have any issues.

I have replaced the ignition relay and still the same issue. I have also taken a pair of jumper cables and connected one end to the positive batter terminal and touched the other end to the top post on the solonoid (the one that the wire from the starter connects to) and it sparked and then then the starter spun. One thing that I have noticed that I think is really strange, I have found that the wire that comes from the solonoid and connects into the positive battery cable seems to get warm when the positive battery cable is connected. I am close to running out of options as to what is preventing the car from starting. Any suggestions as to what else to troubleshoot?

When you turn the key, basically all you get is a click.

Thanks in advance,Tim

So you have done the following:-battery test (>12.5 VDC with engine OFF)-alternator charging voltage (14.1-14.7 VDC, steady and not fluctuating with engine running)-starter tested but no load-replaced Ignition Relay! There is no Ignition Relay. There is a Clutch Interlock Relay (M/T) or Park/Neutral Position Relay (A/T) which serves as safety interlock.

Previous symptoms:-struggled to start-unable to jump start-just 'click' when attempting to start

You have to verify that the battery is really good (>12.5 VDC); the connections are clean, tight and continuous (no break); and the vehicle Security System is working (Security LED is blinking and turns off when Ignition Switch is turned ON). Since you have already pulled out the starter before, then you know about the single-wire connector going to the starter solenoid.-disconnect the Single-wire connector (going to stater solenoid), start the engine and check for presence of Battery voltage. If battery voltage is present, you have a bad/sticky starter. If battery voltage is not available, you may have a problem with the interlock relay or related switch; security system; or ignition switch.

The heat you have felt on the lead to the stater motor may be due to loose connections (arcing will heat up the wire).

Hi loystock,

Below are the results from the test I performed this evening. I reconnected the positive battery cable to the positive battery post, reconnected it to the lower bolt on the solonoid, and plugged in the two small wire connectors on the positive battery cable (one connecting to the solonoid and the other connecting to the cable that comes from the fusible link and ends up at the fuse box near the right side of the battery) Once that was connected. I checked to see that the Security LED is blinking and turns off when Ignition Switch is turned ON (which it does) and I also made sure that the alarm was not on (using the key remote to unlock the car doors). Still no starting (which I was not surprised)

I then disconnected the wire that runs from the starter to the top bolt on the solonoid (so it was not connected). I then had my wife attempt to start the car while I had my voltmeter positive (red) probe on the top bolt on the solonoid (the one that I had just disconnected the wire from above) and the negative probe (black) against the engine block. There was no voltage reading when she tried to start the car. So then to make sure I was grounded properly, I moved the red probe to the lower bolt and received a reading of 12 volts. (which is what I would have expected). (Think that the solonoid is bad?) Remember, when I bypassed the positive battery cable and used my jumper cables from the positive battery post to the top bolt on the solonoid, the starter spun.

Let me know what you think of my test. My next step is to go and have the battery load tested.

FYI - the relay that I replaced was the Clutch Interlock Relay (M/T) (It was located in the black box in front of the car) and cost approx $12 from my local parts shop.

I really appreciate your advice. Thank you in advance.

The Starter solenoid is mounted on top (on the side when installed) of the starter motor. There are 2 terminals (studs and nuts) on the starter solenoid and one connector (single wire connector).-the single wire connector is the one that energizes the solenoid which will do 2 things - 1) engage (extend) the pinion gear of the starter to the flywheel; 2) close internal contacts to connect battery power to the starter motor.-one terminal of the starter solenoid is connected to the battery (HOT side).-the other terminal is connected to the starter motor winding (switched side)-the chassis of the starter serves as the ground connection when it is bolted to the engine. So anytime the starter is bolted to the engine, it is grounded and therefore connected to the negative side of the battery.

When you apply battery voltage to the single wire connector, the starter solenoid should energize and you should hear it engaging against the flywheel.

When you apply power directly to the Switched terminal (going to the starter motor) the starter motor should turn (but it will not crank the engine since the pinion gear did not engage the flywheel.

You may have a defective (or sticky) starter solenoid since you said that the starter spins when you apply power directly to the motor. Again, the best way to check if you are getting the START SIGNAL is to check for battery voltage on the SINGLE-WIRE connector while the car is being started.

Refer to the attached link for the FSM (Factory Service Manual for the 99 I30. Start on page EL-25 for description and EL-26 for the wiring diagram (M/T).

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/1999/el.pdf

So this evening, with the car pretty much back to its original configuration, I disconnected the single wire connector from where it connects into the positive battery cable and put the positive probe of my voltmeter on the metal piece inside the plastic connector (grounded the other negative (black probe) against the engine) and attempted to start the vehicle multiple times and received no voltage reading. Seems like the solonoid has went south (do you agree?) If so, I will purchase a new starter/solonoid in the next few days and install it and let you know the results.

Thanks again for your responses!Tim

If you are electro-mechanically inclined, you can actually disassemble the starter as you probably have a sticky front end (mechanical side) and gummed up back end (rotor-stator). Put alignment marks on the starter assembly for ease of installation. Clean the mechanical side (pinion gear and planetary gears) with Carb Cleaner (or brake parts cleaner), let it dry and then lubricate with White Lithium Grease. For the rotor-stator use Contact Cleaner (or CRC MAF Cleaner) and thoroughly clean the rotor and stator and just let it dry. A plastic brush or toot brush can be used to remove stubborn dirt. Re-assemble and then test the starter solenoid. Then simultaneously test the starter solenoid and motor (make sure starter is secured as it may 'jump'). Use the starter frame as the ground (-).

In both I30s that I have, the problem were just 'sticky' starter and saved me a lot of money just cleaning them and then lubricating.

Before you replace the started solonoid assembly, check the battery cables. How old are they? If the cables are old and have developed a high resistance due to internal corrosion, etc. it could get warm. When you put the jumper cable onto the solonoid, were you bypassing one of the battery cables? I would make sure the battery cables are ok first.

The positive battery cable is new. I had it replaced approximately a year and a half ago when the fusible link broke off of it. The negative cable appears to be in good shape and I used the voltmeter to test its resistance.

When I put the battery cable onto the solonoid, I was bypassing the positive battery cable. (suspecting the same as you (the positive battery cable was faulty)) however it still did not start.

As I mentioned before, when I touched that the positive of the jumper cable to the top post of the solenoid (the one that connects to the starter itself) the starter spun.

Thanks for the input! Please let me know if you have any additional comments or ideas. (going to purchase the new starter/solenoid today)

Replacing the starter and solenoid did the trick. I reconnected everything and the joker started right up! Many thanks to you for all of your guidance and advice. I really learned a lot about the startup of a vehicle in this exercise!

Thanks again,Tim

It's my pleasure to help. I wish everyone would do the same - giving us feedback about the result of our suggestions, good or bad.

Since I just ran into this problem but wiht a 2000 I30 I am searching the web for where and how to get to the starter... Could someone help? Also I have ramps are they needed to get to the starter?

Thank you very much for anyone who replies.

Michael

Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight and battery voltage is >12.5 VDC. Also check the starter connectors. Lot's of starting problems can be traced to those items. If you are sure the starter is the problem, then remove the Air Intake Duct (from air filter to Throttle Body) and electrical harness protector. The starter is mounted just above the transmission and coupled to the flywheel. Disconnect the electrical connections to the starter. There are two mounting bolts - one long and one short. Once removed, you can pull out the starter.

There is no need for a ramp nor a jack. Access is from the top of engine compartment, driver side.

thoward82,

I have exact same issue on my 98 I30. last week it was acting up weird..like i had to turn the key 3 or 4 times and give it some gas to start. it was hesitating all the time. on friday morning it just wouldn't start. after 3 or 4 tries of same hesitation it completely stopped. all i hear is just one click. this is original starter that came with car.

i took out the intake, MAF etc to get to starter today. i hit the starter with hammer to see if it helps but it didn't. just one click. i took battery to autozone and got it checked out. it showed 12.4v. cleaned the terminals on battery with brake fluid, also applied some sand paper.

talked to few mobile mechanics on craigslist. everyone says just check the battery connectors.

with what you saying, sounds like i should just be replacing the starter.

thanks to forum for any help.