I recently had to have my 1999 Infiniti i30 towed home after being stranded in a shopping center parking lot. I originally thought that perhaps I had run out of gas (as the gauge was nearing empty), however I filled it up and it still would not start. When I turn the key, it will attempt to start, but it sounds as though the engine will not turn over. I replaced the battery (now have a brand new battery) and replaced the starter approximately a year ago. (before when the starter was bad, all it would do when I turned the key was click). This time, it sounds like the starter is activating, but the engine just won't start. This lead me to believe that maybe its not getting any gas, so I pinched the line coming out of the fuel filter while my wife started the car and could feel the hose pressurize (thinking maybe the fuel pump is bad). I can hear the fuel pump prime, whenever you turn on the iginition. I then thought maybe the coil packs are bad, so I pulled a spark plug and checked to see that it is receiving a spark (and it is). At this point I am starting to run out of ideas as to what to check next. Any thoughts?

If the motor is not turning over, it's the starter.

when you try to crank the car, do the lights die? If so, check your battery terminals

Hi tigershark - no the lights do not die when I try and crank it. The battery terminals are clean (as the battery is brand new).

I also went ahead and changed out the fuel filter and it stil does not start. While changing out the fuel filter, I could tell that it seems to be getting gas as the hoses in and out of the fuel filter were pressurized and sprayed gas when I disconnected them.

At this point, I don't quite know what to check out next? Any suggestions?

It may be new but check battery voltage is >12.5VDC. Have you tried jump-starting the car? Do you have access to an OBD II scanner? You can probably borrow/rent from a car parts store to find out if you have any trouble code. It will help us in isolating the problem. You can also extract codes from the ECU. If battery is Ok and jump-starting did not work, next time, before starting the car, disconnect the MAF sensor and see if the car starts or not.

Battery voltage was fine (as checked by my multimeter). Tried jumpstarting and it still didn't start. I then disconnected the MAF and attempted to crank it and it did the same thing as before (turns over but won't start). I then did something (Yes I know you are gonna give me a comment), but I sprayed 1 shot of starting fluid into the intake and it sounded as though it tried to start. This leads me to truly believe that it is something fuel related. (ie its not getting gas). I am thinking my next step will be to purchase a fuel pressure gauge to determine the fuel pressure leading up to that I potentially replace the fuel pump. Will also try reading the codes and see what kind of answers it provides. Your thoughts?

So this afternoon, I removed the rear seat and disconnected the hoses coming out of the cover over the gas tank. (I believe these are the fuel line and the return). I attempted to start the car and the fuel line sprayed gas. So I then went under the car, removed the plastic fuel lines and made sure they were clear. I then also confirmed that I am getting gas from the hose that exits the top of the fuel filter and goes into the engine. So.. if I had to guess, something in the engine is preventing the car from starting. At this point I am close to out of idea. I'm still trying to convince the auto parts guys to let me borrow their scanner to read the codes. Any other thoughts for things to check?

hey im accauly having the same problem with my car its a 99 i30t, i replaced the fuel pump, which did nothing! and the fuel filter, and still no luck. i also did the same thing as you with the starter fluid, but i had my brother in the car while i sprayed it into the intake, and it started, but died when i stoped. this lead me to belive it was the fuel injectors. and now im stuck again, i have talked to some of my instructors at my school (lincoln tech) and they told me to get a noid light, and put it on the fuel injector harness to see if its getting a signal while cranking, but i havent goten around to that yet....

Okay guys, I think I am about to waive the white flag and give up. I have tried all sort of things to try and get this 1999 i30 to start.

In Summary:
It has a brand new battery
It has a brand new fuel filter
I have confirmed that the fuel pump is providing gas and have traced the entire line on the car up to the engine and gas is flowing.
I disconnected the mass air flow sensor and tried to start it and it didn't start
I have purchased an ODB II code reader and no codes are being displayed
I have taken off 3 of the fuel injectors and confirmed that they are getting gas when I attempt to start the car.
I have confirmed that the spark plugs are sparking
I have replaced the starter not that long ago (and the starter appears to be working fine)

I am now about out of ideas. It really tries to start, but just seems like when it should turn over, it doesn't.

Any last ideas before I have it towed somewhere to have it checked out. (and probably cost me a fortune?)

Many thanks!

Did you ever figure out your problem, my I 30 is giving me the the same problem now. If you can, let me know what fixed the problem?

I've had an intermittent starting issue with the 99 I30 a while back with no fault code. I went thru the normal diagnostic routine but nothing fixed it until I clean the Main Engine Harness GROUND points. The ground lugs are installed adjacent to the intake plenum, near Cylinder #2. Removed them, clean the lugs and the mounting, apply dielectric grease and then re-install. Also check the ground connection to the battery.

Other possibilities - NATS (Nissan Anti Theft System. Does the Security LED turn off with Ignition ON? Have you checked the PNP (Park Neutral Position) switch? Try moving shifter to Neutral and see if it starts. I think there is an override switch close to the shifter (I may be wrong). Worst case, you have a bad ECU. A problem with the Crankshaft sensor will usually trigger a fault code.

Sound like starter not turning all the way, probably loose, cocks when about to turn, or a bad ignition switch. Try to directly put 12 volts to the starter solenoid , see if it cranks continuesly. Test it w/ a test light , see if the test light comes on when starting, w/ solenoid connector disconnected. Still many possibilities. You have to establish a cranking motion first before tackling anything else. Try to turn the crank by hand w/ a 1/2" handle & socket at the crank pulley bolt, see if it turns normally.

Thanks guys, I did not realize I had received replies (normally receive an e-mail notification) Anyways, I will check out the recommendations made and will reply over the weekend with the results!

Many thanks!!!!!!
Tim

Does the Security LED turn off with Ignition ON?
Yes it does

Have you checked the PNP (Park Neutral Position) switch? Try moving shifter to Neutral and see if it starts.
Yes I have tried this also and tried it again this weekend for good measure

I checked the ground connection to the battery and it is clean. I'm having trouble locating the ground lugs. Any more advice as to what these should look like, what is connected to them, etc?

I checked the starter and it is not moving or wiggling at all. I also took a video of a couple attempts to start the car. Based on what I can tell, it seems as though I am getting a cranking motion, which led me to believe it was a fuel related issue.

Below is the video (turn up your speakers so you can hear it trying to start):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21kPfbKC ... ata_player

My gut feeling is you have triggered the anti theft system. This can keep the car from starting. I can not for sure say this is what is wrong, but when the anti theft was triggered in our 05 xterra it did this exact same thing. would crank but not actually start. Sounded just like your I30 cranking. Only problem is that you have to take it to nissan or infiniti to get your keys reprogrammed. That's if the NATS has not fried on the car. There was a TSB for a NATS update on the car sometime in 2000. I'm pretty sure the 99 I30's had the NATS b/c the 99.5 maximas had them.

The 99 I30 does not have a full-pledged NATS (no Ignition Key ID nor NATS transponder) but just an Anti Theft System with starter inhibit. So if there is a problem with the Anti Theft System, the engine will not crank.

CORRECTION: Looking back into the FSM, it's possible that some I30s have NATS.

The engine is cranking and from your previous post, fuel is flowing to injectors and the spark plugs are firing. This is the same problem I've had except in my case, it was intermittent. Again, the main engine harness ground points, 2 each, need to be removed and cleaned, including the surface where it is mounted. The main engine harness runs between Banks 1 and 2 and the ground lugs are mounted on the top LH side of the engine. Just follow the main engine harness and you will see two small wire coming out and connected to the engine frame (near the intake plenum).

Again, the problem could be something else but usually, they are associated with trouble codes.You can verify the fuel delivery pressure by connecting a fuel pressure gauge (T-fitting) between the fuel filter and fuel rail. With Ignition ON, engine OFF, the fuel pump should run with pressure at 43 psi (note that pump will shutdown after 5 seconds). With engine running, pressure is at 34 PSI.

Thanks guys! I found the harness diagram in the FSM (EL pg 363) and will check it out first this evening. Then I will purchase a fuel gauge and test the PSI between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks,
Tim

Hi guys,

Got in late but tried to locate the ground points, but I am not sure I found the right thing. I ended up taking off something on the left hand side of the engine (once removed it appeared to have oil on it. It was connected to a small white wire) (I'm thinking this was not the right thing)

Anyways, I cleaned it off and then reconnected it and tried to start the car and it started twice and quickly died. (new video - http://youtu.be/zZqepOB75jk) (I am now even more confused). The only thing I can think is that I disconnect the battery between my troubleshooting tests to ensure it does not drain - I reconnect it before trying to start it (maybe that resets something)

After that it would not start again. I then took a video of me trying to start it (sorry its very dark) you will see the security light blink and then I attempt to start it. Once it does not start, the security light remains solid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5guD2OLtuAk) Not sure if this is normal.

I'll try again tomorrow in the daylight

Per latest description, your problem is more likely with the Security System/Anti-Theft Warning System. Some of these Anti Theft Warning System will allow engine start and then initiate fuel cutoff, which is happening with your car.

Below are the phases of the Security System/LED.
DISARMED - doors not locked, SECURITY LED blinks every second
PRE-ARMED - doors locked by key or remote. LED steady on for 30 seconds
ARMED-once PRE-ARMED state is completed, the system goes into this mode and the LED blinks every 2.4 seconds.
ALARM - door (or hood/trunk) opened w/o key or remote. Horn-headlights are activated and starter is inhibited.

If the Anti-Theft System is failing, you either have a starter inhibit or fuel cutoff after engine start. Have you tried using another key?

A work-around the failed Security System is to prevent it from ARMING. It worked in the Q45 and may work with your car. There is a Hood Sensor (open/close) inside the engine compartment, front, driver side. You should be able to see it as it has a rubber bumper with it. What you have to do is dismount (not disconnect the electrical connector)) this sensor and then secure it (tie wrap or anything) so it doesn't bounce around. With the sensor dismounted, it will ALWAYS detect that the hood is OPEN (even if you closed the hood) and as such, prevent the Anti-Theft System from ARMING. Try starting the car. BTW, doing this will disable your Anti Theft Warning System. Also, ensure your battery voltage is still >12.5VDC as a weak battery can cause starting problem

As for the main engine harness ground lugs, they are bolted to the engine, pax side, close to the intake plenum and cylinder #2.

My mechanic and I are having the same issues with my I-30. Was wondering if anyone had come up with any additional thoughts.

Starter is fine.
Battery is fine.
Fuel flow from tank to injectors is fine.
He can spray starter fluid into the intake and it will kick over/run as long as he keeps the fluid going.
He's detected a reduced charge to the injectors--something is not telling them to fire.
Check all the crank sensors/etc--no error codes.

Ideas?

Welcome to NICO.

I have to assume that your statements above are correct - that correct fuel pressure is going to the fuel rail and the Camshaft & Crankshaft sensors have been verified.

Disconnect and clean the main engine harness ground lugs and points (close to Cyl #2, adjacent to intake plenum), apply dielectric grease and then reconnect. Disconnect the MAF sensor (CEL will be triggered due to 'limp mode' and all injectors and spark plugs will fire at the same time when car is started). Turn ignition switch to ACC for @ 5 seconds (this will cause the fuel pump to run and prime the fuel line) and then start the car. If the car started, you may have a bad MAF sensor. If the car did not start, reconnect the MAF sensor.

Does the Security light turns OFF when you start the car (or with Ignition ON)? If it remains ON during starting, you have a problem with Theft Warning System. There is also a likelihood that you have NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft System) and not just Theft Warning System. If so, that means the ignition key has a unique ID. When the key is inserted into the ignition cylinder, a NATS Antenna Amplifier in the cylinder detects and sends the key ID to the NATS IMMU (Immobilizer Unit) and ECU (Engine Control Unit). If there is a mismatch with the key ID and the one stored in the IMMU and ECU, the car will not start or may start and dies immediately. This can happen if you recently replaced the ECU or your ignition key has been damaged. If you have a spare key (original, not duplicate) try it. Unfortunately, detailed NATS diagnostic and key programming can only be done at the dealership (@ $100 for key programming).

Good luck

Hi!

Thanks for this post. I now am sure that I have exactly same problem as your I30 had. I parked mine on rooftop of my office garage in the morning (but dont really recall if I locked it using the remote as it was raining and I just wanted to run away quickly into office).

In the evening when I tried to start, it came over twice before dieing the very next moment (just like you shown in your video). After that it cranks but won't start. A lot many helpful people around helped me to get it jump started but it didn't agree. I didn't want to tow it from there so moved the Shift lever to Neutral and pushed it over to a lower covered parking floor to look out for a solution online and try the same tomorrow.

I will try things mentioned in this post but wanted to know if you ever got a solution to this problem?

Thanks!
Ashish

Ok! So for the ones who are still looking for a solution to this problem, it was the key. It somehow got out of program so the security system wasn't letting the fuel injected. Thankfully I had AAA membership and got it towed to a Nissan Dealer (yes it's an infiniti but I30 and Maxima's had the same engine so they could take care of it) just for 10 bucks. The dealer charged me 55 bucks for diagnosis & key reprogramming. After reprogramming it starts just fine.


Unfortunately I had the other key with my wife 700 miles away from me which probably started the car. But I wasn't sure if that would fix it so didn't get that mailed overnight to me. Sad news is that the other key is now out of program as once reprogrammed all previous programmed keys are erased from system so sometime in future I will need to get both of them programmed again.

So if you have got the other key in hand, try with that too before deciding to tow it.

Symptoms of this problem: I have Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System in my car. The security light on dash turned SOLID RED after inserting the key and turning it to ON position and stayed until the key was there. The car would crank fine but won't start and I could feel that it's not getting the fuel. It was very cold yesterday so the rubber hoses carrying the fuel didn't come out of the filter, but I couldn't feel any fuel flow in that.


Per my research on internet, things you can try if your car doesn't start:

1. Does the engine crank? If you hear just the clickig noise and no cranking, check your battery, battery posts for corrosion or bad contact, battery cables, Starter. If the battery was almost dead and is capable of holding the charge (auto parts store guys can tell this), it's your alternator for sure (check for bad/corroded connectivity first).

2. If the car cranks, check battery posts (mainly the ground), Check if the battery has enough charge to turn the starter, check engine harness for proper ground, Check ECM & other fuses, Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor, Park Neutral Position (PNP) Switch (try shifting it between P and N while traversing all the way up to down), Idle Air Control Valve and finaly the ECM.[*]

3. A few people have also found problems with Fuel Pump but it's very uncommon. Also, you need to have an almost empty tank before you can mess with the fuel pump or else the fuel might break out a fire.

Hope this helps someone in similar situation! Good Luck!

For anyone else that is looking.. This is the security system. Their are a few ways to approach this.. 1 is to simply open your hood and look for the anti-theft fuse, take it out and wait 15 sec and then try to start the car. If that doesn't work; lock all the doors using the button not manually, get out of your car and shut all doors, wait 15 min and unlock the door using the key, put the key to the "on" position but dont turn over for 5 min, do this 3 times... then try to start it after the 3rd 5 min interval. Happens to me every once in a while in my 97 infiniti but I do it the fuse way under my hood and it starts. They really need to stop putting these P.O.S. anti-theft systems in cars. They are more harm than damn help

Starter

Great thread.. I think this happened to my I30. The previous owner tried getting Goodyear and others to work on the fuel system. Eventually the Infiniti dealership diagnosed the problem as a bad ECU. I bought the car for $300 to get it out of her driveway then picked up an ECU from a wrecked 99 Maxima and and the dealer reprogram it. I still think the only issue was the anti-theft had been set off and needed a reprogramming like this thread suggests.

Jaws1400 wrote:For anyone else that is looking.. This is the security system. Their are a few ways to approach this.. 1 is to simply open your hood and look for the anti-theft fuse, take it out and wait 15 sec and then try to start the car. If that doesn't work; lock all the doors using the button not manually, get out of your car and shut all doors, wait 15 min and unlock the door using the key, put the key to the "on" position but dont turn over for 5 min, do this 3 times... then try to start it after the 3rd 5 min interval. Happens to me every once in a while in my 97 infiniti but I do it the fuse way under my hood and it starts. They really need to stop putting these P.O.S. anti-theft systems in cars. They are more harm than damn help

Just tried this on my 2001 i30 and it worked. I can't believe it or that I found this post! RUKM!? Thanks!

Jaws1400 wrote:For anyone else that is looking.. This is the security system. Their are a few ways to approach this.. 1 is to simply open your hood and look for the anti-theft fuse, take it out and wait 15 sec and then try to start the car. If that doesn't work; lock all the doors using the button not manually, get out of your car and shut all doors, wait 15 min and unlock the door using the key, put the key to the "on" position but dont turn over for 5 min, do this 3 times... then try to start it after the 3rd 5 min interval. Happens to me every once in a while in my 97 infiniti but I do it the fuse way under my hood and it starts. They really need to stop putting these P.O.S. anti-theft systems in cars. They are more harm than damn help

After four hours of searching the Internet for a solution to my 99 infinit i30 starting problem I came across this post so if anyone if having similar problems with the the NATS to save yourself a trip to the Nissan dealer ship and some money use this post as a guide to reset your system IT WORKS!! THANKS!!

I found in another thread, a photo of the factory manual on resetting from lock down. To reset turn the key off, then turn on key for 5 seconds (not minutes) then turn off. Repeat 3 times. Then start the car on the 4th turn of the key.