1980 280ZX Fuel pump question

Post by **sek8031** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 3:32 am

I'm considering buying the following 1980 280ZX:

http://houston.craigslist.org/car/350964998.html

Everything looks like it's in good shape from the pictures, the only thing that worries me is that line about the fuel pump needing replacement. I checked online and the part alone is going to cost $275 (Bosch), and the fact that Baytown is about 45min from where I live means I'm going to shell out a fortune having it towed up here.

My main question is, how can I tell this is really the fuel pump and not something else that's going to end up costing me thousands to get repaired. I'm not a gearhead by any means, so any layman-type advice would be appreciated. I've read buyer's guides on where to look for rust and compression tests for these cars, but that's about it.

I have wanted a 280Z/ZX for a long time now, and I'm hoping this will be my golden opportunity.

Thanks,-SK-

Post by **evildky** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 6:32 am

Welcome to Nico!looks like a really clean car, I'd be suprised if the fuel pump couldn't be found for a fraction of that cost, I'm running a big fat MSD fuel pump and it was only about $100, but you are correct taht the problem could well be something else, like the AFM or ECU, hard to diagnose a car on his limited discription, but hey that might be a good bargaining point for you, as for compression tests, the L6 is a very long lasting motor and can be found for cheap in a worst case scenario, I honestly wouldn't worry about the engine if it fires and runs thats good enough, but the rust, heck yeah, thats the number one killer, get it on a lift if possible and look all over the floor pans and structural parts for any signs of rust, keep us posted

Post by **sek8031** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 8:25 am

Thanks for the info., I was hoping to try and talk him into having someone out there fix the fuel pump and then having him drive the thing to meet me somewhere (to more or less prove that it's road-worthy), but he'd rather try to "pull some strings" with some flatbed towing guys he knows to get me a good deal on that. I may try to find a reputable mechanic in Baytown and take it there for a second opinion.

Anyone have any thoughts on that price? According to NADA the average sale price for those last year was $5500, so I feel like I wouldn't be way out of line offering $4000-$4500 to offset towing and repairs and such.

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 7:06 am

it's tough to price older cars, looks pretty clean and low miles, a good clean high milage car I would expect about $3000-$5000, for the low milage I can see a bit more, but the running issue should also discoutn the price more than enought o handle possivle afm and ecu replacement in my cheapskate opinion

Post by **sek8031** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:23 am

Well I talked him down to $3800, so the price seems right. He seemed like he'd rather sell for less than have it taken to a local mechanic to check out the running issues. Basically now all I need to do is go check it for rust. According to him:

"There are 2 small spots near the washer wiper, smallspots on the t tops metal shield, no leaks tho. Now the majoritymeaning the 2% of total rust on the car will be the battery tray"

But I want to go take a look at the underside, wheel wells, trunk, etc.

Anyone have any final advice for someone that might become a classic Z owner this weekend??

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jun 14, 2007 5:49 pm

frame rails, lower rear quarter panels, floor pans, look for rust on everything thats not glass or plastic!

Post by **sek8031** » Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:20 pm

I am now the proud owner of a 1980 280zx. It needs a fuel pump, could use a paint job, and the area under the battery is badly rusted, but other than that it's in really great shape. I'm looking forward to getting started on the restoration.

Post by **evildky** » Sun Jun 17, 2007 6:59 pm

congrats, I hope you're good with metal work becasue there is no repop panel for the battery tray, you'l have to fab it or cut it from a donor car

Post by **sek8031** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:22 am

I have a friend that owns a collision repair shop that can probably fab something without too much trouble.

Back to the original issue of the fuel pump, just like the ad said it starts up and idles fine, but you can hear a whining coming from behind the seats, which I assume is the fuel pump. You can cruise around ok, but if you really step on the accelerator, the engine dies. Does it still sound like it might be a fuel pressure regulator/AFM problem or is it sounding more like a fuel pump issue?

Post by **evildky** » Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:20 pm

gererally fuel pumps fail when they get hot or faced with excessive resistance, check that the fuel lines are flowing freely, could be sediment buildup in the fuel lines, also when a pump fails it will stay non functional till it coools down a bit, if the lines are clear I'd suspect the afm or ecu

Post by **sek8031** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 3:28 am

I have a friend that owns a collision repair shop that can probably fab something without too much trouble.

Back to the original issue of the fuel pump, just like the ad said it starts up and idles fine, but you can hear a whining coming from behind the seats, which I assume is the fuel pump. You can cruise around ok, but if you really step on the accelerator, the engine dies. Does it still sound like it might be a fuel pressure regulator/AFM problem or is it sounding more like a fuel pump issue?

Post by **evildky** » Tue Jun 19, 2007 5:56 am

evildky wrote:gererally fuel pumps fail when they get hot or faced with excessive resistance, check that the fuel lines are flowing freely, could be sediment buildup in the fuel lines, also when a pump fails it will stay non functional till it coools down a bit, if the lines are clear I'd suspect the afm or ecu

1980 280ZX Fuel pump question

1980 280ZX Fuel pump question

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