06-10 M45 Long Tube HEADERS!

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
DeanM45
Posts: 552
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Car: 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport 1 or 2 mods
Location: Woodland Hills, CA

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Still working on the driver's side as there is a lot more work needed on it to clear the steering shaft but here we go:

Picked up some Nissan Titan long tube headers.
Had to modify the flanges as the Titan uses an oval port and the M a round port. Right port is done (just needs to be cleaned up a bit more):
Image

Stock compared to header:
Image

Side clearance (after modding with a BFH):
Image

Ground clearance:
Image


Ground clearance is almost EXACTLY as stock. Still need to weld on the venturi reducers and flanges to attach to the Y pipe.

Hopefully will have everything done in the next week.


Anyone that wants to attempt this plan on spending a LOT of time. First time removing the manifolds took about 4 hours (remove sway bar and motor mounts, jack up the motor about 4" and then work to get the damn heat shields off. After than it is pretty easy). I am not using a lift, just have the car up on stands. The LT headers, while not "heavy" are awkward. It is a PITA to install them while laying on your back and trying to balance the header with one hand and installing the nuts.

After I get them all finalized I'm going to strip off the regular paint I threw on to prevent surface rust and re-coat them, in and out.

A note: when yu need to make clearance you heat up what ever pipe you need to mod until it is red hot, lay a 1" or whatever diameter piece of pipe on the header and give it a whack with a BFH. Looks much better than all the dimples you would have if you just hit it with a hammer.

Will continue to update but it is no where near as hard as I had originally feared.


06M4.5
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Location: Florida

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Nice but it looks like a really big job

I'm sure the diff will be night & day.

What was the cost on the headers?

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stm37s
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this is gonna be nice, the mods should sticky this tread build once it's complete.

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FlawleZ
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Very good info and pics! Would be great to see some before/after dyno results or track times, but good work nonetheless.

What we need is to get someone on board to make a run of 10-20 of these with a set like yours that has been modified for proper fitment. I think if they're reasonably priced we can get enough people for a group buy.

seymore4
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Car: 2012 M56
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Dean you are my hero. Wish I wasn't so busy/lazy and would do this myself... lol

DeanM45
Posts: 552
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:09 pm
Car: 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport 1 or 2 mods
Location: Woodland Hills, CA

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Clearance for the starter done today and smoothed it out.
Image

Will work on the steering shaft tomorrow but things continue to move along!

DeanM45
Posts: 552
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Car: 2006 Infiniti M45 Sport 1 or 2 mods
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So after messing around with the steering shaft and dimpling the headers I came to the conclusion that it will not work that way.
So out with the metal saw:
Image

I have #5 tack welded up now. Will form and weld #7 next. The steering shaft is going to run inside the header tubes (5 and 7 on the outside and 1 and 3 on the inside). There is a LOT of trial and error working here. Trying to keep the tube lengths within 1" of each other. I have to mess with it and ultimately I may run #7 on the inside but I think that it would increase the length too much and more importantly, may make it impossible to get to the steering shaft U joint to install the retaining bolts.

So far the things that have had to be done:
1) Motor mount removal (both sides)
2) a/c compressor unbolted and moved forward
3) Starter removal

Aside from the steering shaft and starter (very very minor on the starter) there have been no clearance issues with the frame or anything else.

For all this work this thing better haul a**! :crazy:

Next house will most DEFINITELY have a lift!

DeanM45
Posts: 552
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Pic before I dressed the welds on the new primary---once I finish #7 I will dress the welds and get her coated. It was a MAJOR pita working around the steering shaft so that there is no chance of any contact, #3 and #7 will run on the outside of the shaft and #1 and 5 run on the inside.

Image

TDot
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Car: 2008 M35X, Lakeshore Slate/Tan
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You do some pretty amazing work first hand. Are you a mechanic or have a body shop?

DeanM45
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Nope, I just like messing with cars. About 20 years ago a bunch of "experts" told me that something could not be done on one of my cars. I proved them wrong by making the part and ever since then I'll try to do everything, at least once. :gapteeth:

LouCast
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Never amazes me how much of a headache it is to install hearders on Nissan vehicles. I had the same headache installing headers on my Armada. Good job, also, do you plan on running cats, or going catless?

DeanM45
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Yes, cats will be run eventually, once I get the headers mounted with no issues. Main problem is that these are Titan headers that apparently have the steering shaft much farther over. The M (with its narrower engine bay, I assume) puts the steering shaft right in the middle of two of the runners. Passenger side require very little modification. Driver's side is 90% of the install work.

DeanM45
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Yeah, I know it is ugly. Lots of cleanup work to do.
Running #7 on the outside of the steering shaft. You can see the opening now between the tubes (1 & 5 on the inside, 3 and 7 on the outside):

Image

Probably throw the stock manifolds back on tomorrow, I'm getting sick of this stuff, lol!

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stm37s
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good job man, keep us posted on the updates

TDot
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What type/how much of a difference does this make? Hp/tq?

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elwesso
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Looks like after all this, it would have been easier to make them from scratch rather than start with the Titan headers?

DeanM45
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TDot wrote:What type/how much of a difference does this make? Hp/tq?
The Tian guys get from 20 -35 RWHP and torque increases. Torque is the biggest improvement with a broader torque curve that starts earlier in the RPM range. However, that is with the 5.6 motor. I think Ken with JBA shorties saw about a 15 RWHP improvement, untuned.

DeanM45
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elwesso wrote:Looks like after all this, it would have been easier to make them from scratch rather than start with the Titan headers?
I agree 100% but I do not have the facility to do a full header build. If I could lower the front crossmember from the car (obviously with the motor attached) then fabrication would be super simple (relatively speaking). Since I do not have a way to that (or the time) this is the option I chose. The headers were only $100 (from a guy that sold his truck before he installed them) so I did not mind cutting them up or, if it does not pan out, walking away from the them. The time spent may have been wasted but I have learned a lot of stuff about how the Ms are set up (some of it pretty damn weird, lol). Passenger side had no real issues, driver's side, with the steering shaft and the starter (remember the Titans have the starter on top, under the intake manifold runners) being so close together (about 3" of clearance) has proven to be quite a challenge. LOL, I love welding but hate laying on my back trying to install, measure, remove, repeat UPTEEN BILLION times.

DeanM45
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Holy crap! Just put the motor mounts back on, lowered the motor and EVERYTHING LINES UP!!
No interference with steering, no interference with the mounts or frame. Things are finally looking GOOD!
Woo hoo!
Now, need to pull everything apart AGAIN, finish up and dress the welds on the primaries, finish welding the rear flanges and it looks like, God willing, things will be good to go!

Of course once I fire it up the headers will probably leak like a sieve, pipes will expand and bind the steering the headers will start taping the frame and floorpan and the motor will run worse than it ever did!

Going to Harbor Freight right now to get a 20lb sledge.....just in case.

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FlawleZ
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Great work Dean! Glad to see your so determined to see this through. I really wish we could get someone on board to make a set for us. All we need is one good set to fab up the jigs and get them in the hands Of a willing fabricator. I happen to be good friends with one of if not the best fabricator in Texas. If we can get a group together, he will gladly create them.

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svard75
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DeanM45 wrote:
elwesso wrote:Looks like after all this, it would have been easier to make them from scratch rather than start with the Titan headers?
I agree 100% but I do not have the facility to do a full header build. If I could lower the front crossmember from the car (obviously with the motor attached) then fabrication would be super simple (relatively speaking). Since I do not have a way to that (or the time) this is the option I chose. The headers were only $100 (from a guy that sold his truck before he installed them) so I did not mind cutting them up or, if it does not pan out, walking away from the them. The time spent may have been wasted but I have learned a lot of stuff about how the Ms are set up (some of it pretty damn weird, lol). Passenger side had no real issues, driver's side, with the steering shaft and the starter (remember the Titans have the starter on top, under the intake manifold runners) being so close together (about 3" of clearance) has proven to be quite a challenge. LOL, I love welding but hate laying on my back trying to install, measure, remove, repeat UPTEEN BILLION times.
Oh man. Use something else instead of the actual headers. Like maybe cardboard sideways directly on the exhaust port then cut a path from the front to the rear one time that way you would have your total clearance and build the headers from that. Should be easier than back and forth. Good job for doing this and the motivational stamina.

DeanM45
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For the rough fitting that is what I did, used some foam tubes. However, because there are so many angles in play and all of the tubes rest on one another I had to use the actual header for final clearance measurements. Remember, the stock manifold has one primary that is roughly 2" OD. I am replacing that single one with four tubes that are 1 7/8" OD. The flange is at about a 40 degree angle (not perpendicular to the ground), the steering shaft moves (because of dual U joints), and then all the surrounding clearances (bellhousing, starter, inner fender, motor mount, and firewall). Nothing is flat or straight, everything has odd buldges/angles. Plus building the header is pretty easy but building a header that can be installed with the motor in the car is much more difficult as you have to take into account the studs and clearances for the studs during instal. Nothing but fun!

DeanM45
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FlawleZ wrote:Great work Dean! Glad to see your so determined to see this through. I really wish we could get someone on board to make a set for us. All we need is one good set to fab up the jigs and get them in the hands Of a willing fabricator. I happen to be good friends with one of if not the best fabricator in Texas. If we can get a group together, he will gladly create them.
Whereabouts in Texas? I was born and raised in Houston and plan on returning at some point. Still have family n Houston, Crosby, Dallas, and San Antonio. Used to go over to Conley's (Lawrence and Janace) in Humble during my Grand National days (they had and ran the car "Tweaked
"). All racers eventually go back home to TX, LOL.

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FlawleZ
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I'm in San Antonio. He's in Austin. And yes, Texas is a racer's paradise. :-)

DeanM45
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Next time I'm in your neck of the woods I'll let you know so that we might be able to meet.

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mexillis
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I actually found a company willing to make long tubes but no one is ever interested when the price tag is mentioned. For good headers that will be "bolt on" won't be cheap especially for the small amount of people willing to purchase them. Back to the OP good job getting those installed! I bet it was a pita working on your back instead being able to use a lift. Will you get it on the dyno or tuned to see the difference?

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FlawleZ
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DeanM45 wrote:Next time I'm in your neck of the woods I'll let you know so that we might be able to meet.
That sounds good. Please do.

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FlawleZ
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Any updates Dean?

DeanM45
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LOL, it has been a while. Headers are gone. Went to a little meet at a hot rod shop in Simi and one of the fabricators asked if I would sell them to him. I threw out the "I don't want to sell" price and he said OK! He is planning to re-make them, in thicker walled stainless. I had to make a new U joint for the lower steering shaft (about 5/8" smaller) to better clear the primaries. That is mine so when he offers the kits he said that he would buy them from me (part of the deal plus I get the first stainless set). The thin walled mild steel was a good deal louder than stock. Objectionable by maybe 80% of the people that would buy/look at them. So he's gonna go with thicker walls and do an actual anti-revision flange (instead of the modified Titan flange). I only drove abut 1K miles with them and gained roughly 2 MPG with them and a DEFINITE increase in performance. I'm sure once he properly forms them they will be even better. I was gonna contact Seymore4 about getting a new map for the UpRev as the WOT runs were showing 14~14.2:1. So if and when you get them you WILL have to re-tune the car.

I see him in person about once a month up at cigars so I'll stay on top of it.

Best thing about the 06-07 M's ?
Image

MAP POCKET!!!

seymore4
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I am 100% interested in a set if/when these come to fruition.


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