'05 Pathfinder turns over, but won't start

[countrygirl403]

Auto was low on gas, put in some fuel, drove about 5 blocks. Rough idle, then died. Got it started once, then no more. Hauled it to mechanic, showed pressure problem with pump, so replaced. No codes have ever shown up! Called me to pick up, dove 35 miles, and after turn off it would not start again. Tried to reset by turning on key, waiting for flashes, then trying to start. Hit once, but died. Would not start again. Had it towed again. Mechanic removed cables, then replaced. Said car started several times over several times. Called to pick it up. Before I got there, he tried and car would not start. Still no codes, we are not sure where to start. Can anyone help us? 2005 Pathfinder with around 56,000 miles. Bought second hand through auto auction, so no warranty. Had only put 4,000 miles or so on it.

Also have another 05 Pathfinder bought about 6 mos before this one that my daughter drives. Also bought it through same auction. Now has about 83,000 miles (bought at about 50,000). After my problems started hers has refused to start on 5 occasions. With knowledge of my problems, we quickly shut off hers, then wait a few seconds, then it has started so far. Scares me that I might have 2 with problems.

I am just a poor single mother. Have not resorted to taking it to dealer. I do not know to trust them without codes. My mechanic has recently updated his computer, should have all available codes. I have done some looking on internet. It is not encouraging how many '05 postings there are with similar problems! Any knowledge of these problems would be appreciated.

[Pwnin O'Brien]

My suggestion would be to replace the fuel filter. Maybe some sediment in the gas tank got sucked into the filter when you ran the vehicle on low fuel. This sounds like a textbook issue of a clogged fuel filter.

[countrygirl403]

As I mentioned, I am female. I was told by my mechanic that the fuel filter was part of the fuel pump and we replaced that. Was I given incorrect information? As my screen name suggests, I am a country, farm girl, and the fuel filter was my first choice also. When I went to auto parts to try and get one they told me that there was no separate filter. After going to a female friend who has worked in auto parts for 15 or so years and she looked up to find same information I figured it was correct. My mechanic went to Nissan (no after market pump found) and purchased the new pump and put it on. Ran for 35 miles or so and quit again! Been sitting now since before Thanksgiving because mechanic is swamped and has not had time to really try to trace down problem. Told him I was in no big hurry since I have pickup I can drive. Would rather be driving my pathfinder than my diesel though. I find all sorts of discussions online, and everyone seems to find different cures. A fuse box or relay problem shows up the most. Been on Edmunds.com and more than one post indicates they are going to sell their pathfinder if they can make it run long enough. I really like my car and don't want to have to sell it. But at this point I about feel the same!
Modified by countrygirl403 at 3:36 PM 1/8/2010

[Pwnin O'Brien]

After looking over the service manual for the '05 Pathfinder it does look like the fuel filter is incorporated into the fuel pump/sender unit.

When it was running, what were the characteristics of the rough idle (bounced from 625RPM's to higher RPM's, bounced from 625RPM's to lower RPM's, bounced above and below 625RPM's)? Is the SERVICE ENGINE SOON lamp illuminated on the instrument cluster? Does it seem as though the vehicle will start and run easier when the vehicle is warmed up, or when the vehicle is cold?

[countrygirl403]

I guess that I won't be that much help to you in details. This all happened back in Oct. To the best of my memory, I fueled car and drove about 1/2 mile to house and went in to retreive forgotten item. When I came out car was idling rough. Tried to give it some gas, but it died. It did start, but was running very rough and slow. I am sorry that I was not thinking of checking the RPM's at that point (I was not that used to having a Tachometer even!) I tried to start the car, it seems it actually backfired, and it finally did start. But once again it was very rough and slow. I remember that I coaxed the accelerator and finally it kicked in and appeared to run correctly. I drove 2 blocks to my house and shut it off. I could not get it to start again. Good battery, plenty of cranking power, but no firing it seemed to me. The car had all the symptoms of bad fuel and so I checked into getting fuel filter. When we determined I had to buy the entire fuel pump unit, we ordered it. Put the car on trailer and hauled it to mechanic. He replaced the pump and I picked the car up and drove 35 miles home. Parked the car at football field for game that night. At half-time we tried to start the car to warm up. It would not start, just turned over, seemed to be no fire. While we were cranking the car I could smell gas fumes inside the car. Got out stuck my head under the hood, no gas smell there. Stuck my head under drivers side of car since tank and fuel lines are on that side, but no gas smell there either. Got back in and cranked car some more and still gas smell inside car while cranking. I decided that mechanic left a line loose or something. I did get the car to run for a few seconds, but still rough and slow. When I tried to give it some gas and make it run, it died. Gave up and watched the game!

My mechanic checked around he was told to turn on key, wait while lights on instrument panel (sorry it has been so long, don't remember which one I was watching) flashed, wait a certain number of seconds and try to crank. When I went through that process, it seemed to fire once, but did not start. I had the car towed back to mechanic, and he called me to say that he had removed battery cable, left it off for awhile, replaced it and had started car several times a day for 3 days and it run fine every time. I left to pick it up and he tried to start it before I got there and it would not start. I have been online several times since, trying to find other people with the same problems, and what ours might be. It cost me $650 to replace pump, that is 2/3 of my monthly paycheck! I am not in the position to take it to Nissan and turn them loose on it. I would like to have some idea what is up. I also went to Just Answer and paid the fee to ask a certified Nissan mechanic his thoughts. He said it was true that no codes would show up on this type of no start problem, but that Nissan would know what was wrong without the codes. And that they could fix it, even though he really could not tell me what was wrong over the internet without seeing car. Did say that there had been problems with the main fuse panel under the hood on this model. I found my notes from him and he did call it the IPDM like I am seeing on discussions now. I was following one post that tried to send one of the computer boards (I have been told there is 7) to be rebuilt since Nissan wanted $1300 plus labor for a new one. When he got back online after receiving the rebuilt board, still not able to make it run. So now it seems to me, he still is at square one. He does not know if the rebuild job was no good, or that board was not the one with the problem on it!

It is not fun to be making a monthly car payment and not be able to drive the vehicle! Guess if I hold out until I get my tax refund I can just take it to Nissan dealer and sign it over to them!?! Been without the car since Oct now, what is a few more months. I can't really blame Nissan, Inc. at this point since I haven't taken the car to them. But, it sure seems this is a major problem with this year and model. I have also heard you cannot even buy that fuse panel due to backorders. I did not call and verify that though. Wonder if you should try to get one at a salvage yard? Could still be in same boat with other guy, not knowing if the used part was no good, or that one not the problem!

I read of some who call Nissan and report their "problem" and get a number of some sort. Should I do this so that it is one more person reporting this no start problem on an '05 Pathfinder?

Thank you for your input on my problems.


Modified by countrygirl403 at 7:36 AM 1/9/2010

[AL2275]

I'm having the same problem as your daughter with my 2005 Pathfinder. There have been about 5 times within the last two weeks where it would turn over but not start. I sit there for a few minutes and then it starts fine. I was told to get my battery tested. Went to AutoZone to get the batter tested, and they said it tested bad. I replaced the battery, but I'm still having the same problem. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take it to the dealership to get it looked at, but I don't trust them!

[countrygirl403]

I am not very good at this post thing. I see that you are online. I have an interesting post from another site. I sent copy to my mechanic, but have not talked to him yet. I am going to try and copy that post to this site. If you can check back, I hope I can get it to you.

[countrygirl403]

Good Luck!

These were sent to me from a kind person on Edmunds.com

I am concerned that the occasional non-start problems could turn into total non-start like mine!

Here is a copy of the post. Also the link that was sent to me http://www.titanspot.com/Titan...&st=0

Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:55 AM04-06 Titans have an electronic module component that has been prone to early failure:IPDM-ER is the (Intelligent Power Distribution Module in the Engine Room).

Failure Symptoms: Truck can be stuck in "limp mode", erratic flashing lights such as SLIP, 4WD, ABS, Check engine etc., and most importantly the engine dies and can only be restarted after some time!... :smt005New reports are also showing Titans that won't start up from cold due to a failed IPDM-ER.

Don't look for warning lights or codes to assist you for the diagnosis of a failed IPDM-ER board however there is a "Auto Active Test" feature you can perform easily:1- Turn the ignition switch on2- Press the door light activator switch in 10 times........notice the open door light on the dash will flash each time you press the switch.3- Turn the ignition switch Off then back ON.4- The horn will beep, oil light will flash, the defroster will cycle, headlights will flash, cooling fan will cycle, wipers will come on and ac compressor will cycle if the IDPM-ER is functioning "NORMAL".

In an Emergency: you may "swap to get you to the shop" the ECM relay & the Fog Lamp relay on the circuit board : but it has been known to only be a very short lived fix.After the board is lifted up there isn't enough room to lean it back and switch the relays at the bottom with all the wires/plugs in the way so it must come all the way out for a temporary repair.

The OEM warranty on the IPDM-ER is 36 months or 36,000 miles.Cost of IDPM replacment: Costs from dealers range from ~$180+ to $250 however our vendor Brian at NISSAN PARTS in New Jersey is offering a great price of $92.58 + ship.Part# for 04-06 Titans is 284B6-ZC00A Be sure to have your Titan year and VIN# for 100% identification when ordering... :smt004

NISSAN has addressed this known electrical circuit board component failure and this is "THE" complete upgraded/improved replacement. :smt023

Removal of the IPDM-ER (Intelligent Power Distribution Module in the Engine Room) circuit fuse/relay board.

The job will take about 30 minutes....I know because I did a "test-run".Seven plugs on the circuit board must carefully be unlocked with a small flat screwdriver and removed, then the board can be removed for switching the relays or total board replacement.NOTE-1: This isn't a job I would prefer to do on the side of the road or with a hot engine bay as one must lean over the battery or between the battery and the open hood which is very close quarters...but I could do it if I had to.NOTE-2: I placed a tarp over the battery and just leaned into the job to stay clean.1- Remove the battery negative cable first then the positive.2- Remove the IPDM upper black plastic cover then release the two plastic clips on the IDPM and use a small flat screw driver to push the connector locks inward to release and remove each of the seven plugs.3- After all the plugs are removed lift the board pull out upside down only.4- Remove the board and insert the replacement board (or make the temporary relay swap) and reconnect the seven plugs and finally the battery cable(s).Note: A common pliers tool will assist removal of the relays if a temporary repair is to be used.

Test start your Titan and enjoy!.... :smt023 :-D

For those that need to perform the TEMPORARY relay swap:(See 2nd picture/diagram below for relays to swap)Note: A common pliers tool will assist removal of the relays if a temporary repair is to be used.Three relays have the same numbers on top: NAIS 4 on the left side and on the right side 40814F 1401 ThailandOn the bottom AGM33201 MO8The 2nd relay down or the ECM relay has NAIS 5 on the left side and on the right side 40919 1913 JapanOn the bottom ACM33211 MO9NOTE: This is the only relay made in Japan.The fourth relay down is the Fog Light Relay.Pin configurations of all relays are the same and consist of four blades.You must pay attention to put them back in facing the same direction or they won't plug into the sockets properly so take note when removing.All four relays on the ECM and Fog Light Relay side of the board face the same direction.All of the relays on the upper five relay side of the board have a NAIS 4 number like the ECM relay side of the board with four relays.

How's the IPDM-ER circuit board work on my Titan!?! :

ECM (Engine Control Module)

The Engine Control Unit or ECU is a designated computer that was developed to manage the engine control system. The ECM consists of electronics which are mounted on multi-layer circuit board. The ECM monitors and adjusts the air/fuel mixture and utilizes a catalytic converter to minimize amount of pollution produced from the engine. There are two modes of operation, closed loop, which means the computer has completely taking over the operation system. And open loop which is used when the engine is cold and operates on a preset program. The engine must be at operating temperature before it can go into closed loop.

ECM Engine Control Computer

The ECM monitors the input and output signals produced by various sensors in the system. The ECM then adjusts the system as necessary. Sensors can include: oxygen sensor, coolant sensor, mass air flow sensor, air intake sensor, crankshaft angle sensor, throttle position sensor, camshaft angle sensor and knock sensor. The ECM operating program consists of information cells. These cells hold the code for proper engine operation, if information is out side the cell parameters a MIL (malfunction inductor lamp) or "check engine light".

Once a "check engine" or a "service engine soon" light in your instrument cluster has illuminated the ECM has stored a diagnostic trouble code. This means the computer system on your vehicle has detected a problem with the various systems it controls. Your car or truck has many different sensors that monitor the various vehicle systems. If the trouble code light has been illuminated your vehicle enters into "limp mode" this means it is running on a predetermined program that causes poor mileage and increased emissions. An engine trouble code reader is an easy to use tool. All 1996 and newer vehicles utilize a "D" style plug-in connector that connects to the code reader. On most vehicles the connector is located at the driver's compartment. Once the code reader is plugged in you can retrieve trouble codes the engine computer has stored in its memory. These codes are the same codes the dealer and repair shops use to replace sensors and clear codes.

The ECM outputs a 5 volt reference to most sensors to drive the monitoring circuits. The ECM also controls the radiator cooling fan, air pump controls, fuel pump, EVAP system and more depending on the vehicle. Communication standards have being established in the OBD2 operating system. Among the communication standards controller area networking or CAN has become very popular and can achieve communication speeds of more than 500 Kbps, which is faster than most communication standards.

Advantages of using buses for communication is that if a fault occurs with any of the process modules, it can be reported separately to a diagnostic tool. Manufacturers have different trouble code faults although some are generic. Wiring is simplified by a technique known as multiplexing. In this kind of wiring system is assigned for each module, which consolidates the output and input for that module.

I hope this helps anyone in need or to save $$$!...... :smt004 :smt003Attached thumbnail(s)

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[01qwhite]

Looks like u already found it I was just about to recommend the ipdm this is a very very common problem with titans pathfinders and frontiers

[countrygirl403]

Thank you, I hope that more people read this and it helps them. I have been reading and posting since late October trying to find cure. Hope this is it. I know there are a lot of frustrated Pathfinder owners out there! I had an '89 Pathfinder and loved it, that is why I got this. It sure has come around to bite me in the behind though.

[wwilson82]

I have been following these reviews and sites because I am having the same exact problem with my 05 Pathfinder. It has been going on for about 2 weeks and I haven't taken it anywhere yet. Please reply if this helps identify your problem or if you find out what is wrong.

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Please let us know if the temporary relay swap works, I'm interested to see the result. If the fix to the issue is simply replacing the IPDM then this is definitely sticky post material.

[countrygirl403]

My mechanic finally got an open spot and put my pathfinder back in shop. He ran the self test that I posted to this site earlier. My car and my daughter's car have both passed that test. Hers has not failed to start recently, and mine still won't start at all! So my problem is not the IPDM. He also had tried the relay switch that was posted earlier with no luck. Guess we will have to give up and haul mine to Nissan. We don't know what else to do. Will keep you up to date as things happen.

[Pwnin O'Brien]

My mechanic finally got an open spot and put my pathfinder back in shop. He ran the self test that I posted to this site earlier. My car and my daughter's car have both passed that test. Hers has not failed to start recently, and mine still won't start at all! So my problem is not the IPDM. He also had tried the relay switch that was posted earlier with no luck. Guess we will have to give up and haul mine to Nissan. We don't know what else to do. Will keep you up to date as things happen.

Yeah, a Nissan dealer should be able to tell you the issue for sure once they hook it up to the CONSULT computer. If you get the diagnostic service done, you can post the issue up here on the forum and we can tell you where to get the parts for cheap or even how to fix the issue yourself (if it's a simple fix).

[countrygirl403]

Well that would be nice, but have been holding off taking it there since I have been told on other discussion sites that if we are not getting any codes at my mechanic, we probably won't get code at Nissan either. But I was assured that even with no codes Nissan could fix it! This came from an ex-Nissan mechanic though!

[Pwnin O'Brien]

Well without a code they wont be able to detect the issue immediately, but with the Nissan CONSULT II computer they can run numerous diagnostic tests which cannot be run without the CONSULT computer. It may take them more than an hour to diagnose, but they will definitely be able to find the issue. One recommendation, however, don't let them fix the issue if it is an expensive issue. Many Nissan dealers will do the diagnostic and then not charge the diagnostic fee if you let them repair the issue. Don't let them talk you into having them repair the vehicle if it is an expensive repair. Most likely we can find the parts for 50% of the dealers price and we may be able to tell you how to fix the issue in your own driveway with simple tools. We can also tell you if their diagnosis is bogus or if it is legit.

EDIT: You don't have to pay the diagnostic fee until you pick the vehicle up from the dealership and they can keep the vehicle in their lot until you do make your decision. So take your time and don't let them pressure you.

[countrygirl403]

Thank you for your information. I would have believed that if I took it to them I would have to let them fix it. It is nice to know that even if we haul it in there we can haul it out also. I will be sure to ask about the diagnostic fee and if I am required to let them make the repairs. Just to make them aware that I might handle it that way. My son is to arrive tonight, and he had to replace the engine in his Lexus. Did not want to pay the mechanics price, so he did it himself. Said he sure learned alot! Took him several days, but since he was laid off last year, he had plenty of time.

[01qwhite]

still sounds like a ipdm to me it could be internal, good thing about the dealer is they have them around to diagnose with to put it in an test it among the other test they will do

also has your mechanic done a compression test or checked the the cats visually

anyways let us know what happens

[dahammer]

my first post to this forum as I am trying to find out why my 2005 Pathfinder will crank but not start. This car is driven by my wife and all of the dashboard lights flashed on and off and the car kind of shudderded but was still drivable (this was the third time it happened and the dealer could not find out the problem in two previous visits) Pulled it into a shopping center, shut it off and it would not start again. It would crank but not start. I went to that "nissan titan" site and thought it was the IDPM, so I switched out the relays, but this did not work. I had to have the car towed to Nissan where it sits awaiting a diagnosis....this was my first time that I have ever had to tow a car to a shop.

Frustrated does not begin to tell how I feel, so let me unload here and maybe I will feel better for it......this was the first Import nameplate that I bought since the mid 1980's. I owned a 1974 Fiat 128, 1977 Toyota Corolla, 1978 Volvo 240, 1985 Volkswagen Jetta GLI, 1987 Pontiac 6000 STE, 1985 Olds Cutlass Calais, 1992 Plymouth Voyager, 1995 Plymouth Voyager then I got company cars: Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Chevy Lumina, Buick Century, Dodge Grand Caravan, Ford Windstar, Ford F-150. That said, the 1995 Nissan Pathfinder LE with just about all the options was my most expensive car purchase to date, the first foreign nameplate in my driveway since I had a full head of hair, and it has been the biggest piece of shait from a cost of maintance perspective. I will never again buy a first year car, but if I do, I will buy an extended warranty. So far, this car has only 62k miles on it. We have had to replace the transmission due to engine coolant leaking into the transmission. I had to fight to get this done at 55k miles under the Nissan warranty. I had to replace a front left drive shaft even though I have driven this in AWD only three times in a few years. I had to replace some kind of sensor in the fuel tank which required removal and draining of the tank, about a $500 job. I have had other minor issues as well, but can't recall them now.

Now I have the problem of the car not starting and because its my wife's car, she is scared shaitless to drive it because she has zero confidence. I lost my job and we have 4 payments to go and we will own the title, so I really am not in the position to trade in this gem.

My car is at the dealer now and I am waiting to hear that they need a $600 IDPM (plus labor) and cannot bear to think that I may have to pay another $750 or more.....thanks for letting me rant!!!

[countrygirl403]

Hope this is good news! Mechanic called today and said he tried the following patch and my car started! Tomorrow he will get the relay from Toyota and put it in. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this will work. This was another post from edmunds, thanks be to those guys. I will keep you posted, either way, if it works or if it craps on me again!

It may be IPDM module under the hood on the passenger side close to the firewall it is the white connector block with electrical connectors and 9 relays with a lid on it there is one relay in there that supplies power to the coils and the mass air meter it is the bottom row second from the left facing the IPDM the relay is not available from nissan or anybody else for that matter but toyota sells one for $36.00that will work, the IPDM is $200.00 from nissan all you need is the relay, to tell, just switch one of the others into that spot and see if it starts.The toyota part# is 90084-98032 but it has 5 poles you must remove the one that does not exist on the old one Then it will plug right in.

[AL2275]

I believe the problem with my Pathfinder is the iPod connection I had installed. I used to keep the iPod connected all the time. Once I started disconnecting the iPod, the problem went away. I've only had the problem once in the last month, and I had the iPod connected. When I disconnected the iPod, it started right up. Does your daughter have an iPod or anything else like a portable GPS connected?

[joe4te]

Auto was low on gas, put in some fuel, drove about 5 blocks. Rough idle, then died. Got it started once, then no more. Hauled it to mechanic, showed pressure problem with pump, so replaced. No codes have ever shown up! Called me to pick up, dove 35 miles, and after turn off it would not start again. Tried to reset by turning on key, waiting for flashes, then trying to start. Hit once, but died. Would not start again. Had it towed again. Mechanic removed cables, then replaced. Said car started several times over several times. Called to pick it up. Before I got there, he tried and car would not start. Still no codes, we are not sure where to start. Can anyone help us? 2005 Pathfinder with around 56,000 miles. Bought second hand through auto auction, so no warranty. Had only put 4,000 miles or so on it.

Also have another 05 Pathfinder bought about 6 mos before this one that my daughter drives. Also bought it through same auction. Now has about 83,000 miles (bought at about 50,000). After my problems started hers has refused to start on 5 occasions. With knowledge of my problems, we quickly shut off hers, then wait a few seconds, then it has started so far. Scares me that I might have 2 with problems.

I am just a poor single mother. Have not resorted to taking it to dealer. I do not know to trust them without codes. My mechanic has recently updated his computer, should have all available codes. I have done some looking on internet. It is not encouraging how many '05 postings there are with similar problems! Any knowledge of these problems would be appreciated.

hi wan,t to ask you is there fuel pressure at the fuel rail if not comom problem fuel pump connector at the fuel tank napa auto pro newmarket

[kyleburke]

My 2006 Pathfinder stalled in the middle of an intersection but we were able to get it started and got it home. Once we got home it never started again. After reading this post I decided to take my 2006 Pathfinder to the dealer. It turns out that there is a recall on an ECM Relay. I ended up get my car towed for free and the relay changed for free. The dealer milked me for a Mass Air Flow cleaning. The told me the Mass Air Flow was causing the problem and it would be $230 to fix. I gave them the go ahead to repair because I was happy that was the only problem. They never mention the ECM Relay recall. When I got to the dealership the told me I didn't have to pay for the tow because their was a warranty recall and the bill was $140. I look at the bill and I see they replaced the EDM Relay. I asked the manager when they knew the relay was bad and they said when they originally called to give me a quote. When I asked why didn't they mention the relay while quoting me the said the relay wasn't related to my problem. They said the relay caused intermittent stalling. Be warned if you are going to take you Pathfinder to the dealer ask about the ECM relay. Otherwise they may make up other things to charge you for.