I've got the issue where I periodically have to turn my key 5-6 times (hearing the "click") before the starter will engage. Seems like others have stated that this is a common issue with these cars. If I pull the starter, is there a way to clean the contacts or am I in for a new starter?

Also, does anyone have any step-by-step procedures for pulling the starter? I'm not a "take it to the dealer" kind of guy unless it's something electrical that has to be done on a dealer's computer. If nobody has any procedures, I may try to develop some when I pull it this weekend.

Tom

Looks like starter R/R is pretty straight forward. I thought someone just posted some starter info on the F50 Q's not too long ago (within a year?)...

I would plan on being in for a new starter, but you could try cleaning it up and taking it into an autoparts store to test it. If it were me and getting under the car, for under $200 you can get a new starter and eliminate the issue. Eventually the starter will not work at all anymore, and you'll be stuck, and wish you just would have spent that money on a new starter than a tow AND starter.

I found a low-mileage starter (50K) for $70 shipped. I don't like taking risks on Chinese-made parts. I'd rather get a good, used OEM starter and take my chances on that.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Tom

I've seen old DC brush-type motors that perked right up after after the brushes and commutator were sprayed with electrical contact cleaner. Always wondered if you do the same thing to an old starter - ideally, without removing it from the vehicle.

You'd probably have to drill a small hole in the side of the starter case to provide some way of poking the contact cleaner nozzle straw in next to the brushes - and then cover it up to prevent moisture entry afterwards.

Here are some additional notes on replacing the starter. The top starter nut is the biggest pain of the entire job. It is nearly impossible to get to and very hard to break free. In order to get to the top 14mm nut, you'll need to go in from the front of the engine, right behind the alternator with a long extension (or multiple extensions). You'll need to feed the 3/8" extension past the motor mount, and then figure out a way to get the socket onto the extension after it's close to the nut. (There isn't enough clearance by the motor mount to allow the thickness of the socket to pass through). I used a piece of thick wire and taped my socket onto that and fed it up to the nut using a mirror to see what I was doing. It worked, but it wasn't easy. Also, in order to get the starter out, you'll need to remove the lower nut from off of the motor mount and using a jack, lift the motor about 4 inches. That is the only way to get enough clearance to get the starter to come out.

After doing this job, I think I could do it again in about an hour or so, but it took me about 4 hours because I didn't know how to get to that top nut. Also, if you're experiencing the clicking noise, but the starter won't engage, try cleaning all the connections on the starter without removing it from the vehicle. It could be that your contacts are corroded. I couldn't find any evidence of issues on my old starter when I pulled it out aside from some corrosion.

Good luck on the job. By the way, I found a used OEM starter for $40 shipped. We'll see how long it lasts, but if I get a couple years out of it, it'll be worth the $900 saved by not taking to the dealer.

Tom