01' I30 stalls/turn off when on idle. the other day I went to the store and the car just turned at a stop light. I trioed turning it on and it would for a second, then it would turn off. If I put my foot on the peddle, and have it about 2000 rpms, it will run fine. But as soon as I let go, the rpms drop and the car shuts off. Lucky for me it was late and there werent alot of cops out. I had to drive home, put my car on Neutral at stop signs and run a few red lights. But anyways....It's not the battery, starter, or anything like that...all new. the scanner gave me a a few codes. The MAF...which I had problems with before and therefore decided to get a new one. Well, I installed it and still same problem. but Now I get only 1 code. P0505...idle control system....Do I need to replace the IACV (Idle air control valve) or could there be something else wrong??? PLease help...thanks

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Having same problem with my 01 I30, took it to my mechanic and i am getting same code (P0505 Idle Control System) I will be replacing Idle air control valve. my mechanic said it should be that.

Did either of you resolve your problem?

Ale522 wrote:Having same problem with my 01 I30, took it to my mechanic and i am getting same code (P0505 Idle Control System) I will be replacing Idle air control valve. my mechanic said it should be that.

replace the iacv and the ecu/ecm, when the iacv goes bad it shorts back to the ecu and ruins the ics circuitry in the ecu/ecm. after replacing just the iacv you will get the p0505 code, then the car wont do an idle air volume relearn, because the circuit is fried in the computer! just did two cars this week, a maxima and an i30! good luck

I've seen a few where the IAC didn't short and the ECM was ok. But usually not. Also, make sure to change the IAC housing as well. They are know to become porous or leak coolant into the IAC chamber and that can be the source of the real problem.

As a side note the driver inside the ECM powers the IAC and the motor mounts. I've seen a few cases where the mounts shorted and blew out the driver and set the P0505. The IAC and ECM where replaced only to have the new ECM pop as soon as the ECM tried to "move" the mounts. Also, seen harnesses melt from bad mounts.

I have a 99 I30t and when in gear at a light or pulling away from a stop the car will hesitate and drop in rpm's. It does this more frequently when it's warmed up. From what I gathered about the car I have a bad TPS. On rare occasions it will do it when over 55mph which make me think it's not IACV. I have ordered a used TPS off of ebay to replace mine. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Any help is appreciated.

I seem to remember getting rid of that code by replacing therear o2 senser

NutriaforBreakfast wrote:I seem to remember getting rid of that code by replacing therear o2 senser

wow what are you thinking and how does an o2 sensor have anything to do with the iscs (idle speed control system) code p0505??????

just fixed another i30 today with the same problem! that makes 3 in the past 2 weeks! good luck with that rear o2 sensor!

NJ 666 wrote:I've seen a few where the IAC didn't short and the ECM was ok. But usually not. Also, make sure to change the IAC housing as well. They are know to become porous or leak coolant into the IAC chamber and that can be the source of the real problem.

As a side note the driver inside the ECM powers the IAC and the motor mounts. I've seen a few cases where the mounts shorted and blew out the driver and set the P0505. The IAC and ECM where replaced only to have the new ECM pop as soon as the ECM tried to "move" the mounts. Also, seen harnesses melt from bad mounts.

great point but when this happens usually the mounts will make a loud buzzing sound right off the bat! but if the mounts are totally fried this is a very possible scenario!!!!

NJ 666 wrote:I've seen a few where the IAC didn't short and the ECM was ok. But usually not. Also, make sure to change the IAC housing as well. They are know to become porous or leak coolant into the IAC chamber and that can be the source of the real problem.

As a side note the driver inside the ECM powers the IAC and the motor mounts. I've seen a few cases where the mounts shorted and blew out the driver and set the P0505. The IAC and ECM where replaced only to have the new ECM pop as soon as the ECM tried to "move" the mounts. Also, seen harnesses melt from bad mounts.

Wow-talk about a minefield- this post brought me out of a world of lurking only to actually posting--I bought a 00 i30t and recently got a po505 with classic symptoms of erratic idle and stalling. I'm thinking I can change the IAC, but dealin with an auto-fry of the ECM is a different matter. Should I just bend over or is there something I can do myself? No dis to any of the techs who take their time in an effort to help out...Thank You!

Replace your IACV, then go from there.

I just went thru all the same stuff on my wifes 01 Maxima. P0505 code came up, replaced the IACV and still had problems. It fried the ECU so replaced that, but still shifted hard and car would whine out alot before shifting & car stalled out in park. MAF was tested & showed it needed replacing. Once they replaced it, man oh man, runs like it did when we bought it new. Smooth shifting, idles correctly and talk about the acceleration & power! After replacing all this it should be fine for quite awhile.

I have a 2000 manual maxima that had the P0505 code. I replaced the IACV, then the check engine light came back after a short while. I opened the ECU just to look inside, and no damage that i can see at all. I am going to do the Idle Air Learning Curve to see if that will take the check engine light away. Some question though:1. Will check engine light came up if IACV and ECU are both ok, just need a idle learning curve?2. Will the ECU gone bad even there is no visual damage?3. If the ECu is bad, and the IACV is good, will the bad ECU fry the IACV?

Any input will be great, thanks!

when i went thru the ecu and iacv problems i was told that when your iacv goes out, majority of the time it takes out the ecu. also they say if u replace the iacv while still having a bad ecu, the bad ecu can fry the new iacv. worth asking a shop. thats what my shop told me.

I have the same car and I have replaced the IACV and now I am in the process of replacing the ecm.... I was told when the IACV burns out slowly it fries the ecm.... Replacement at the dealer is around a 1,000 bucks but I found a new ecm on ebay for around 125.00 and then it needs to be flashed at the dealers... I think for around a 100.00 so I was told....

Good Luck Mike from Boston area

Having similar issues with the 00 Maxima (68,000 miles) I just purchased. Started withan engine miss and the code for the ign. coils. Replaced the full set. Ran smooth. Then got the code for the front pre-cat. Replaced it. Everything ok, ran good long enough to pass a NJ emissions test. Within 100 miles, stalling and codes for idle control and veh. speed sensor. I just removed the IAC today to find a small amount of antifreeze in it. Tested the resistance and it is out of specs. No doubt bad.

My questions, (1 ) is the ECM damage visible if you look inside of it? (2) Are these cars a piece of crap or did I just get a problem child? Thanks.

The Maxima and its I30 sibling are reliable cars. I know because I own 2 I30s. But based on your description, looks like the car was neglected or even abused by PO and then dumped when he/she realized the repair cost.

The driver (power amplifier) to the IACV stepper motor is inside the ECM. A short in the IACV motor or harness will definitely fry the driver (and ECM). An open circuit should allow the ECM to survive such IACV failure. The driver is a power transistor typically mounted on a heatsink. It would be difficult to tell if it is good or bad just by looking from the outside.

You can replace the IACV (check the mounts) but it the problem persisted, you are out of luck. The ECM, if replaced, requires re-programming.

When you say "check the mounts" are you referring to the electronic motor mounts? If so, how do you check them? Thanks.

The answer is already in this thread. Look for the posting by "NJ 666" re IACV housing and motor mounts.

Hello,Just joined to the club. I am having the exact same problem with my recently purchased i30t 2000. Can someone tell how much it would tcost o get this thing repaired by an average mechanic. I don't have much money and want to have it done as cheap as possible.Or even, should I fix it at all if I am gonna be using the car for year or so? Will it cause any other problems or not? I was told that this problem does not occur at warm weather, only at winter, so I could potentially wait 2 months.

I am not a mechanic, and know very little about fixing cars.To my understanding, I need to replace IACV and ECU, how much will the labor most luckily cost to do that? Also, smbd here mentioned that the car should be taken to a dealer to flash ECU after being replaced, is that neccessary as well?And what are the IACV and ECU, if I wanted to look the at prices for them at ebay or some other store what would I enter in the search field? Thanks in advance, and sorry if my question seems stupid, it just that I am not a car person.

Welcome to NICO.

First, you have to clarify what exactly is the problem with the car. Do you have DTC P0505 or you are just assuming that you have the same problem?

You don't have to be a mechanic to work on the the car. In fact, majority of the members and moderators in this club have jobs other than a mechanic. I for one is an Electronics Engineer by training and work on the cars on as needed basis. All you need is willingness to learn and get your hands dirty plus having basic hand tools. Can your turn a screw driver and a wrench? Can you identify electrical connectors? Let us know so we can help you.

At this time, you're a prime candidate for a rip-offf at the shop. But if you can tell the shop mechanic what you think is the problem and why...the chances of getting ripped becomes less..

Thank you for such a quick reply. I just bought the car with a check engine light, but I haven't checked it with the error code reader, so I don't know what the codes are. But, I will check it at the end of the week when I take the car to the mechanic.The reason I said I have the same problem is that I have the same sympthons. In the morning when I start my car, it would start, and then like after 5 seconds the revs go down, and the engine stops. Then I start the car again and manually push the gas pedal and keep the engine running at about 2000 rpms while the car warms up. When the car warms up, the problem does not re-occur.Also, the person I bought the car from said that this never happens in summer time with a warm weather.

But again, I am gonna be using the car for a 9-12 months, should I be investing in this maintenance or let it keep doing this, is it safe to leave it like that?

Concerning doing the maintenance myself, I think I could manage doing some things myself, but it is gonna be difficult to do it now since it is winter outside, and I don't even have a garage to work in. And I don't have anyone knowledgeable enough to help me out at start.

Also, I tried searching for ECU and IACV on ebay, and was able to find used ECU for Maxima for 140, and brand new IACV for maxima for 240. Will the parts for maxima work with my I30T?

Here is another unrelated question about the car. I know it says in the manual that I have to use premium gas with the I30, but I since I bought the car used, I would assume that most of the previous owners have been using regular gas to save money. Should I start using premium gas or regular would be just fine?

Thank you again!

Buying a car with CEL on is not a good idea. It's possible that the repair cost is just too much for the PO to handle that's why he/she dumped it. Here in CA a car cannot be sold unless it has passed SMOG Check.

Before going to the mechanic, first have a free scan from Autozone and get a printout of the fault codes so we know what the problems are. Most shops charge @ $50 just for diagnostics when you can get it for free from Autozone or AAMCO. Once you have the fault codes, then we can tell you the probable cause.

Premium fuel is recommended for optimum performance but is NOT REQUIRED. You can try regular gas and see how the engine performs. The Knock Sensor together with the ECM will retard the ignition timing if pre-ignition (knocking) is detected, to certain extent. If knocking persisted (not likely), then you have to move on to a higher grade

Thank you for replying, following your advice I stopped by Autozone today after the work. And these are the codes the scanner showed:P0446 (twice) - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve CircuitP1320 - Ignition Signal (From what I read here this can be removed by replacing ignition coils, how many of them should I replace and how much do they cost and how long will it probably take to replace them? I found some on ebay for $33 a piece, but they are divided by right and left side coil, how many of each do I need?)and I got the error descriptions here: zerothread?id=126537

I don't know if this help with the error but the previous owner has changed the ignition system. Also that is why now I have one key that opens the car and one key that actually starts the car. But I also have a remote door opener which has the key that starts the car attached to it, that way I don't have to carry both keys at the same time. But the problem is that there is only one remote opener and it looks like it might die soon. I found the exact same remote control on ebay. Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...oriesAnd the FCC number matches the one on my existing remote.Can I buy it and use it as a spare remote? Will my current remote still work after programming the new one?

Thanks again!
Modified by axd1152 at 1:12 PM 1/7/2010

So I hope you now understand the importance of getting fault codes before attempting to replace components or taking it to a shop. You could have replaced the IACV and ECU for $1000+ and that would not have fixed the problem.

You also mentioned that the PO replaced the 'ignition system' so you now have 2 keys - 1 for the door and 1 for the ignition switch. Well... what he replaced was actually the Ignition Key Cylinder (that allows you you to turn the ignition switch). The Key Cylinder Lock can fail when users bundle too many keys together with the car keys. Is the PO a building maintenance or security officer?

As for the 'dying' remote, all you need to do is get a replacement battery -available from Target, car parts store or electronics parts store. You can buy a 2nd one if you want to but we can discuss that later. You can use a coin to remove the battery cover at back of the remote - just make sure you don't let the cover 'fly off.'

Let's look at your fault codes one at a time, starting with DTC-0440 - EVAP Control System (small leak, negative pressure. That means there is a leak somewhere between the Fuel Tank Filler Cap and the Evap Purge Line to the air intake manifold (close to the throttle body). There are other causes of these problem but the most common ones are:-loose or dirty or cracked fuel filler cap (may require proper closing of cap, cleaning or replacement of filler cap)-corrosion on the filler neck (just need cleaning/removal of rust)-or the PO used a non-OEM fuel cap, hence the leak (use OEM part as much as possible).

Below is the link to 2001 I30 FSM (Factory Service Manual). You need to go to page EC-20 (Engine Control System chapter) to familiarize yourself with the Emission Control component location. This is important so you get to see the engine components and sensors yourself. Then look into page EC-362 to get a better understanding of DTC P0440 and probable cause.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/2001/ec.pdf

The next problem DTC P1320 is more COMPLICATED for your level. This requires usage of multimeter (Volt-Ohm-Amp). Please avoid the cheap ones - aside from errors in reading, it can load the circuit. Testers from Fluke, HP and the likes should do the job. In addition, one has to use a wiring diagram from the FSM to get a better grasp of the testing involved. Use the same link above and start on page EC-506 and go from there. So if you don't have a tester or don't know how to use it, ask a friend who may be able to help you.

When you take a car to a shop for this problem, P1320, they may diagnose and correctly isolate the actual problem. However, some shops NOT FAMILIAR with Nissan/Infiniti cars will most likely replace the Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs immediately, hoping that they will fix the problem. If not fixed, you may be $800 down and the problem is still there. You need 6 each - coils and plugs. Discounted price from IoS - infinitipartsUSA.com is $78/coil and $$8/plug. Use OEM coils and plugs as much as possible. Avoid Bosch spark plugs.

Since your financial situation is tight I strongly recommend that you ask a friend to help you with the testing. At least, you will have an idea as to what the exact problem is before taking it to the shop.

Below, I'll try to make it simple as much as possible. The wiring going to connectors are color-coded so even w/o the wiring diagram, for as long as you know how to identify a color-coded wire, you can do the testing.

DTC P01320 indicates Ignition Signal in the PRIMARY CIRCUIT is not sent to the ECM during engine starting/running. Probable cause:-harness or connector between ECM and each ignition coil-ignition coils-condenser-Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) or circuit.

We can start with the Ignition Coil, then the Harness-Connector, Condenser and Crankshaft Position Sensor.

You car is equipped with DIS (Distributorless Ignition System). The Ignition Coil (6 ea.) has a built-in power transistor whose bias (control signal) is provided by the ECM (Engine Control Module). The coil is powered thru the ECM Relay anytime the Ignition Switch is ON. The Ignition Coil connector has 3 terminals as follows:-Pin 1 (striped wire) - is where the bias signal from the ECM (@ 0.2VDC with engine at Idle) is connected to alternately turn ON/OFF the power transistor which then enables the spark plug(s) to fire or not. An oscilloscope will provide a better display of coil control signal-Pin 2 (B-Black wire) - is the GROUND connection for the coil. Make sure the engine harness ground points (top of engine, besides intake plenum) are clean and secure. Verify this with ohmmeter (@ 0 ohm if good).-Pin 3 (R-Red wire) - Battery voltage (11-14.7VDC) is connected to this pin and the CONDENSER (top of engine, besides harness) whenever the Ignition Switch is ON. If the voltage is low, the condenser may be leaking or shorted. The condenser acts like a 'shock absorber' for the ignition coil (too complicated to explain at this time). When disconnected, the condenser should read @ 1M-ohm at room temp.

The Crankshaft Position Sensor uses Hall-Effect to monitor the TDC (Top Dead Center) position so the ECM can send the appropriate ignition signal. This sensor is mounted near the crankshaft pulley with a typical resistance of 470-570 ohms across Pin 1 (Black wire) and Pin 2 (White wire). Refer to page EC-519.

So you need a functional multimeter for the following tests. The Bank 1 coils for cylinders 1-3-5 are on top of the engine, towards the firewall. The Bank 2 coils for cylinders 2-4-6 are towards the radiator and are accessible by removing the engine cover plate.

To check the Ignition Coil, disconnect the connector from each coil. Refer to page EC-515 for harness and coil locations. Then measure resistance across Pins 2 and 3 of the Ignition Coil receptacle- if reading is 0, coil is bad; not 0, coil is OK.

Next, check if POWER is available to the Ignition Coil (Ignition must be ON). This can be done with the connector in place or disconnected. Testing must be done on the connector going to the coil (and not the receptacle of the coil). With Ignition Switch ON (engine not running), check Pin 3 (red wire) of each ignition coil for presence of battery voltage (@ 12.5VDC) w.r.t. chassis GROUND. Each coil MUST have the battery voltage or it indicates problem with the harness/ECM connection. Absence of battery voltage indicates a bad ECM relay or wiring. Low voltage indicates a leaky condenser.

If the required voltage is present in each coil, then we can now check the control signal (bias) from the ECM. Ensure all coil connectors from the harness are connected to the respective coils. Start the car and check the CONTROL signal from the ECM. Each Pin 3 (striped wire) should read an average of @ 0.2VDC (200 mV) w.r.t. chassis GROUND. If not, bad wiring or signal from ECM. The presence of this voltage also indicates the crankshaft position sensor is working. Again, an oscilloscope, if available, will give a better display of 'firing' signal from the ECM.

Additional t4esting may be required such as continuity testing between engine harness connector and wiring to the ECM. That is also in the FSM.

Good Luck and let me know how it goes

Thank you for taking time explaining how to do everything it detail I will try it over the weekends and will let you know. I am sorry to tell you this, but I think you misread my previous post. The error code is 0446, and NOT 0440. And the error code reader showed the code twice.

Ok. So it's the Purge Control Valve of the EVAP system. Go to page EC-383 and it will tell you the problem could be on the harness-connection or the valve itself.

Look closely for cracked hoses too

Hi, so I thought I would take the car to my mechanic today/tomorrow. And I want him to test all the possible causes of the problem as you described. For now I want to get rid of this cold start issue.So to my understanding we should work on code P0320 to get of this problem.So I would ask him to check the Ignition Coil, then the Harness-Connector, Condenser and Crankshaft Position Sensor. While he does that I would watch him to learn where this things are and what they look like. But for the most part I hope that it will be the ignition coils that need to be replaced and we wouldn't have to perform the rest of the steps for this problem.

Concerning the P0446, for some reason I think this is not causing the problem.(Even though I might be very mistaken) You said it most likely might be the harness-connection. So does that mean that bad harness connection might actually cause both of these errors? If yes I would assume that there is a big chance that after replacing coils and harness connection at least one of the codes will go away if not both of them.

Also here are some other issues that the car have, I would appreciate if you could throw some quick advice there as well.-Transmission - I feel like the transmission jumps when it switches to the first gear when I press the gas pedal hard, and the transition is smooth when I press the pedal smoothly, but the shift is smooth when shifting to/from other gears. Also when I turn on the overdrive mode the jump is not as noticeable. Will replacing transmission fluid help the problem or is it most likely something more complicated and will need a costly repair if possible at all?UPDATE: just noticed that it sometimes makes a jump on when switching to third gear, but not as often or as noticeable.

-ABS/TCS-SLIP lit up as well. I don't think ABS or TCS work while the lights are up, I don't care about TCS but would be nice to have ABS, what would be the simplest step to test the cause of the problem?

-And I think my shocks are gone bad and I will have to replace them. Can something go even worse if I don't replace the shocks? (I don't wanna spend much money on a car that I will be driving a year, but I want it to be reliable while I am driving it, so that is why I want a more of inexpensive solutions that will make the car reliable and will only involve the first aid repairs)

Also when I said my remote was dying I meant that it physically was dying, the buttons are somewhat broken, that is why I was gonna order another set of the remote.

Oh, and one more thing, the window opener switch of the back seats is not working. And I know for sure that it is the switch that is not working because windows can be opened when I use the drivers master switch to operate them. So, my question is will maximas switch fit? And if yes will a previous generations maximas/i30's switch fit? Junk yard in my area might not have i30's switch but will most luckily have maximas.

Thank you again...

P.S. the previous owner was a young guy, but the car had like 5 POs, and was sold at an auction before the PO got it, that's why I assume that nobody hasn't taken a good care of the car for a long time.
Modified by axd1152 at 6:25 PM 1/9/2010

Concerning the P0446, for some reason I think this is not causing the problem.-You are right. The problem indicates the ECM cannot determine the position of the valve (e.g. when commanded to close). The valve is normally open and is commanded by the ECM to close so it can perform diagnostic of EVAP-related components (to see if EVAP system can hold vacuum, and thus prevent fuel fumes from being discharged into atmosphere). So as "nutria" recommended, check the hoses related to EVAP system). The vent valve is located on top of the Evap (charcoal) Canister, near the fuel tank, driver side (where fuel filler cap is). So it normally should not cause stalling issues but other EVAP components like the Evap Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve and Leaky canister can cause rough Idling and stalling issues.

Transmission shifting, not smooth-this may indicate low level or dirty ATF and/or filter but also a sign the transmission is on the way out. With the engine running and warm, check the level and color of the ATF fluid. A good ATF fluid is pinkish red. If the fluid is dark and/or has burnt smell, it must be replaced. If the level is low, just add fluid (Recommended is Nissan Matic-D, alternates are Dexron III and Dexron VI or the more expensive Mobil and AMSOIL ATF).-If the car has more than 85K miles and there is no proof/receipt that a flush was done previously, most shops will refuse to do a flush due to liability issue.-So we're hoping that the shifting problem is due to dirty ATF/filter. This will require a pan drop - clean the pan, magnets, inspect and replace filter if required, then install new gasket and crush washer on drain plug. There are @ 21 mounting bolts for the pan. These are normally one-time use so it;s your choice if you want to re-use them or buy replacement ones (@ $1 each). Unfortunately, the filter has differing bolts size and one nut (reverse thread) so take note of the location of each bolt/nut, for installation.-A transmission service kit (gasket and filter) as well as crush washer, bolts and Nissan Matic-D can be bought at IoS (Infiniti of Scottsdale - infinitipartsUSA.com (all at 25% off MSRP)-After re-assembly, add the exact amount of fluid drained. Then have an ATF flush. If no shop will do it, you or a friend can do multiple drain and refill to emulate a flush. You need a minimum of 12 quarts and each drain will release @ 3 quarts. So run the engine for @ 100 sec (shift gear if you want, but safely, eBrake ON), stop and then drain. Repeat 2-3 times until the fluid color is pinkish red. After a flush, add a bottle of LubeGard Red (not black) ATF Protectant (@ $13 at Napa). Hopefully, it fixes your shifting problems.

ABS/TCS Light - before replacing anything, make sure the tire sizes are the same and no obvious damage. If not, the wheel sensor in each wheel well may detect differences in speed and trigger the lights.-this could be due to faulty ABS Relay (most likely), motor, wheel sensor(s) or actuator solenoid valve for each wheel.-Fortunately, there is a built-in diagnostic that you can use. All you need is a jumper wire between Data Link Connector Pin 9 (near steering column) and chassis ground connection. The procedure seem to refer to Pin 8 as opposed to the illustration and wiring diagram. I have done it before in my Q45. Please refer to BF (Brake System) chapter of the FSM.: BF-40 for description; BF-42 for location; BF-43 for Wiring Diagram; BF-48 for initiating diagnostic; BR-49 to read and understand the fault code; and BR-61 to find out the corresponding Malfunction Code. The just follow the suggested pages to check/replace components.-BTW, if you are involved in an accident with those lights ON, your provider may decline the coverage (I'm not trying to scare you).

Suspension-repair may be expensive so it's your call. If they are just soft and you have a 'floaty' ride, maybe you can live with it. If you hear thumping sound when passing humps/potholes, then the struts are shot and need replacement. Your braking and steering may also be degraded. There is a "How To" also in the FAQ 'sticky'. There is also a YouTube video. It's for a 4th Gen Maxima (95-99) but it will give you an idea on what is involved since the I30 is similar to Maxima.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCwSV-tJrdg

Remote Control-go ahead and buy one, matching your current remote and we can discuss programming later. The procedure is also in the FSM and maybe even in the FAQ 'sticky.'

Rear Window Opener-first make sure that the connection to the control panel is good. You should be able to pry off the switch using a small screw driver covered with rag (or duct tape). Refer to FSM BT (Body and Trim) chapter page BT-35 and 36 for component location and removal instruction. I think the Maxima control switch should work but double-check. Your car is equivalent to 5th Gen Maxima (2000-2003)

P.S. the previous owner was a young guy, but the car had like 5 POs, and was sold at an auction before the PO got it, that's why I assume that nobody hasn't taken a good care of the car for a long time.-To be honest with you, I really don't know why you bought that car. All I can do is try to help you.